It's a 1450 cc Haritage Softail. Drain the oil, replace oring on drain plug, replace drain plug, remove oil filter, fill oil filter with 20/50 harley Davidson oil and replace filter being careful not to overtighten, fill oil tank with the bike upright to the fill line on the dipstick. Take the bike for a short ride and check the fluid level while warm.
Nicole Oring was born on January 19, 1977, in Seoul, South Korea.
Oring noun is superlative
There are two reasons i know of . first the oring in the piston is either cut or twisted. The other is that the o ring on the piston is to small. The only cure is to replace it either way.
1 warm up the engine to ge the oil runny so it all will come out 2 take of the sump plug and let the oil out into a bucket making sure to despose of it properly 3 take the oil filter off whick is located at the side of the engine and get out the new one put a little oil on the oring to make it seel better 4 once the oil is drained put the sump plug in then fill it up with oil to the correct level checking on the dipstick
4.3 for static
Stuart A. Oring has written: 'A comparative investigation of the similarities and differences in the aesthetic theories of Alfred Stieglitz, Edward Weston, Ansel Adams, and Minor White'
Are you talking about the FUEL-RAIL ASSEMBLY that the fuel lines attach to? If so, YES. There are one on each line that goes into the rail assembly.
The manifold itself doesn't leak, but the gasket that seals the intake manifold to the cylinder heads and the engine block does. The gasket is subjected to alot of thermal expansion and contraction and over time, fails to retain the sealing capabilities needed to prevent leaks. One note. If you have a large oil leak, check the oil pump drive oring for being the problem, not the intake. The oring tends to dry out and not seal. Typically, it will leak alot of oil when the engine is cold, but slow down once warm.
most likely a valve oring in damaged.
You need to make sure that there is not a o-ring stuck on the engine block from the old filter. sometimes the old gasket will stick to the engine block when you change the oil filter and it will leak everytime. If you don't find the problem there, then you will need to ask your question again.
that is a tricky metal ring (locking ring) there is a special tool for that.but if you are going to do this once no need to spend the money on a tool you will never use again. the trick is to get all the tabs started at the same time. there is an oring and you need to push the metal ring straight against the oring and turn clock wise until all the tabs catch. then get a chisel or screw driver and a hammer. there are outside tabs on the metal ring. tap them and turn the whole thing in clock wise.wala It is easier to fit the oring...if you will be sure the area is clean of any dirt and grit. Grease the area lightly on the tank, the area also where the oring contacts the tank, and the locking ring side to oring. Press firmly together, all tabs do need to be interlocked. Be sure oring is under and sealing. DO NOT STRIKE lock ring , to fit it in place. NO SPARKS.
remove fuel rail above the injectors un hook the wire and pop it out clean around the injector before removeing it keep the dirt out of the cyl use alittle grease on the oring when you put the new one in
the head has to be removed in order to get the drive out all of the way, but the easy way is to cut a notch at the top of the drive where it hits the head to get to the oring while it is still in the block then slide the oring over the top (after soaking in hot water is easier) once you get the new oring on get a SBC dist. gasket, splice it and put it around the top of the drive, the get some RTV silicone and goop it up to seal the gasket back together, this way takes about 2-3 hours and is WAY easier than removing the head,
Disconnect the hoses and electrical connections from the sending unit, rotate the locking ring counter clockwise until the "ears" of the locking ring line up with the opening on the tank, remove the locking ring, remove the tank sending unit, inspect the oring and mating surface on the tank for debris, reinstall the oring and new tank sending unit, install locking ring and rotate clockwise until it hits the stops, then reconnect hoses and electrical connections.
If you mean "Turbo Return Line" this refers to the metal pipe bolted to the bottom of the Turbocharger that returns lubricating oil to the oil pan. The pipe has a gasket between a flange at the top of the pipe and the bottom of the Turbocharger and an o-ring at the bottom of the pipe where it goes into the engine block just above the oil pan. The oring ages and starts to leak oil down the back of the engine. It can be difficult to replace due to it's position in between the back of the engine and the bevel gear assembly that drives the propellor shaft attached to the rear differential. Two bolts attach it to the bottom of the turbocharger ad the bottom just presses into the back of the engine block.
remove the distributor and remove the oring. reverse removal procedure...oh be careful that you put the dist back in same way it came out or it wont start.this is done by marking rotor position. You also will need a timing light to reset timing. lubricate new oring
First you must unscrew the oil filter and remove the 2 lines going into the adaptor. Unbolt the 2 bolts holding the adaptor to the motor. Remove the adaptor. Clean gasket from adaptor and block. Replace gasket and resemble the way you took it apart. You can take the oil filter off then take the 2 bolts out of the adapter plate this will allow the adapter to be pulled down enough to replace the gasket witch is an oring. If you take the lines off they are quick release.
The thermostat is located right by the engine under the air intake box. To get to it, the coil pack has to be removed. That is held on by four 7mm bolts. The housing is held on by 2 12mm bolts. -Carlos You have to remove your air filter box, and it is underneath it. Basically, you will see a metal coolant pipe running from the bottom of the radiator to a junction right next to your intake manifold, and there will be 2 bolts holding it on, as well as a bolt holding the collant pipe to the block. Also, when you replace the thermostat, you have to replace the gasket. I used 2 gaskets, one on the thermostat (the one I took out had a big oring thingy around it, the new one didn't, nor did they hayne's manual mention an oring, so i reused it), and there is one that goes on the thermostat housing. It's like .99 at autozone, and the thermostat is like $10. Make sure you face it the same way too! Otherwise, your car will continue to overheat. Also, you MUST use RTV gasket sealant on the housing gasket (but not on the oring gasket, if you have one). And NO, you DO NOT have to remove the intake manifold. .....[======]..\\........| ....<----rear bank of cylinders .INTAKE MAN%........| ....<-----% sign is the thermostat .....------------..[_].......| .....<----airbox .....[======]..........| .....<----front bank of cylinders _________________| .....<----front of car
Answerbad fuel injector oring, leaking internally take to a qualified mechanic for replacement of intake manifold, gaskets, possible engine rebuildCould also be a bad fuel pressure regulator. Or could be running rich due to bad/dirty MAF sensor, temp sensor, over due tuneup, or poor ignition or bad computer.
Exhaust leak at Exhaust manifold to head gasket or oring at exhaust manifold pipe.
buy or rent a power steering pully puller tool. Remove the serp belt, pull off the pully, unbolt the pump from its bracket, unscrew the pressure line, remove clamp the remove the return hose use the new oring or plastic washer to seal the new pump to the hose The senser just unscrews be careful of its weak plastic
Hi,the thermstat is located at the engine side of the bottom radiator hose.The hose comes up to the end of the head.You remove the hose and two bolts that hold the aluminum adapter over the thermostat.The gasket is a oring that attaches to the thermostat and simply put it back in place.If it wants to fall out,put a dab of gasket sealer on the oring to make it stick to the housing.Not a lot.Put hose back on and usually it is easist to remove a temp sender on top of the housing to let it bleed up and fill the head,otherwise it will air lock and get hot.
fuel filter is located on top of engine you will see a round black or brown plastic top on filter housing to change filter, unscrew this top lift the filter out insert new filter apply new O'ring to lid, this usually comes in box with new filter. make sure before removing old oring, u note which way it goes back on th lid .the oring has a flat surface on one side so make sure you know whic way it goes on or filter housing will leak fuel screw top back onto filter housing,do not ovet tighten start engine cheak for leaks
There is a rubber piece, called an o-ring around your tank at the top of the valve. When it was cut, damaged or fell off,the tank and the ASA (where you screw it in) no longer make a perfect seal, and co2 goes everywhere. You just need to replace the oring, and put some lubrication on in. You cannot reuse o-rings.