This is a job that requires lots of coaching so I suggest you get a manual on your car from AUTOBOOKDONLINE.COM and it will help on the next repair.
Haynes manual also does a fair job of describing the process. It does require a special tool to remove the retaining nut.
While your at it I would get rid of the auto locking hubs. They may be convenient but suck when they decide to fail. Good set of lock outs can be had for about $70.00
Just did f150 4x4 with manual locking hub. have emergency brakes off. and front hub on free, not locked.
Remove 2 long pins which are holding the caliper in place, by hitting the pins right thru and they will slide out on the back side of the caliper.
1. Remove 6 torque small screws on the face of the chrome hub, around the red locking switch. Then pry around the edge and remove the chrome hub. 2. remove one solo small Phillips screw, so that the axle sleeve will pop out, followed by a spring. 3. Remove the compressoin O-ring around the tip of the axle. I used needle nose small 4. Tricky, around the inside of the edge of the hub there is a expanding O-ring, Look for the split and pry a thin knife underneath it. Then play with it until it comes out. I ended up using 2 kitchen steak knives and my flat head screw driver. Once this last o-ring is out the inner hub assembly will slide out
Step 4 is tricky, but here's an easier way: Find the spot where the two ends of the ring come together. Slip a feeler guage under the ring near one end. Pry out that end of the ring with a small screwdriver. Took me a while to figure this out; it takes about 10 seconds once you get your technique down.
5. With a flat head gently tap one of the three grooves inside on the locking nut counter clockwise to loosen the nut 6. Once it is out, the front bearing will follow . "Remove them and pull the main hub and disc rotor out off the spindle. 7. Ball pin hammers (2) . Put one on the edge of the lug screw and hit it down out of the disc (do this for all lugs)( if lugs are threaded to the end, then place lug nut on with a few good turns , then strike with hammer. 8. WD-40 the area around the hub and the inside back center. This will let the hub slide out once you start hitting the old rotor.
Slide the hub thru the new disc align the lug holes and slip the lugs into the new disc and whack it with the 2 ball-pin hammers(rest one hammer on the lug, stike with the)
Reverse 1-6 and don't forget plenty of bearing grease , also a large c-clamp and one of your old brake pads to collapse the calliper back in. always
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