the instrument panel needs to be removed in order to access the cover which is on top of the plenum box of the vehicle. The four bolts on the engine side of the fire wall hold the plenum box onto the car, but there is not enoigh room to pull the box back for the removal of the cover. The time estimated to replace the heater core if approximately slightly over seven hours. GCB
The heater core can only be removed after the dash board is removed from the vehicle. To remove the dash board the steering colunm needs to be dropped down or better yet also removed from the car. In addition to these two items being removed, the evaporator box in the engine compartment may need to be removed to provide access to the plenum box mounting nuts. Once the plenum is exposed, the box needs to be pulled back toward the rear of the vehicle and the core is removed through the top. It may seem like a tremendous undertaking, but it's the proper way to do it. Cutting holes in the plenum box or attempting to seal the core with these "magic" additives you pour into your radiator will only create more and larger problems for you in the future. The only short cut I can recommend, is instead of draining your radiator, pull one of the hoses off the core stubs and turn it back to the other stub while you're performing the repair. This will save you some time by not having to refill the entire system and bleed the air from the engine block. The Ford repair manual states 7.1 hours for the complete job. A good mechanic who stays at the repair can do the entire jobs in about three hours. TAKE YOUR TIME AND DON'T FORCE ANY COMPONENTS OR ATTEMPT TO BEND OR PRY THEM OUT OF YOUR WAY. Good Luck !!!!!!!
This link has photos and steps to replace brake pads and rotors. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122696
If its like the later models it is a dash removal job I'm afraid.
According to my Haynes repair manual, 1997 through 2000 Ford Explorer models: have a R-134a capacity of 22 ounces
The bulbs can be replaced for the radio and heater controls on a 2000 Windstar SE by removing the plate over the heater controls. Some models need an Allen wrench for this and some models will need a Star wrench to remove the screws holding this plate on.
Some of these models had problems with the switch itself; You may want to replace it.
The cam sensor is located on the top of the engine where older models had a distributor installed. The sensor needs a special tool to be able to remove and replace it.
where is the thermostat and how do you replace it on a 1997 ford explorer? I don't know why this is listed as an answer. Its in the front top of the engine. in the middle, underneath that plastic cover that says SOHC. You'll probably need a universal joint on your extention to remove the 3 bolts holding it in place. (10 mm) One of the big hoses from the radiator connects directly to the plastic housing that surrounds it. Can't miss it.
The Cananda, and Alaska, models may, but the US models would have had to have it added as a option.
I'm not a mechanic / technician but I don't think so From what I have read there are ( 3 ) different engine blocks for the Ford 4.0 liter OHV / pushrod style V6 engine used in a Ford Explorer ( 1991 to 1994 models ) ( 1995 and 1996 models ) ( 1997 to 2000 models )
Starting with the 1995 models of the Ford Explorer the automatic transmissions were ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED ( so , the answer would be NO )
By using the electronic ignition button on the new models OLDER models READ the instruction booklet
According to motorcraft . com , the automatic transmission in a 1995 Ford Explorer only is used on the 1995 and 1996 models , so no
In the fuel tank
I would say ( no ) In a Ford Explorer , the 2002 and newer models had a third row seat available . Earlier models were not designed to have a third row seat
That depends on what model year the 4 door Ford Explorer is : 1995 to 2001 models are / or around ( 21 U.S. gallons ) 2002 to 2010 models are , I believe ( 22.5 )
2003 Ford Explorer 4 door models do not have an automatic transmission dipstick , Ford has a way of checking from underneath the Explorer
Not all models had a heater control valve. If it has one it's either right in front of the firewall by where the heater hoses go in, or else under the dash near the heater core.
According to my Haynes repair manual, 1996 and later models do not use a conventional speedometer cable. They use an electronic speedometer and a vehicle speed sensor (VSS)
If you have a heater core leak you need to R & R it (remove replace) this means removing the whole dash. The heater core is only like $20-$40 but labor will bring it out to be close to $200 -$300, so i recommend doing it yourself if you want to save money. The core is behind the dash on the passenger side in all blazer models.
The voltage regulator is attached to the back of the alternator with 4 torx screws for the 1991-1995 models non-integral type.
Starting in 2002 , the Ford Explorer 4 door models do not have an automatic transmission dipstick
Unfortunately you didn't mention the year , but I noticed on 2002 through 2005 Ford Explorer 4 door models that fuse # 24 - 15 amp - is listed for cigar lighter , OBD II . I'm just wondering if the fuse is bad ? and if that is the cause of your Explorer not starting ? just guessing
That depends which model it is. On older models CV-joints were moulded into the driveshaft. To be replaced they had to be removed using a press and then warmed to be able to replace them. On these models it is often better to replace the whole driveshaft. On newer models CV-joints are attached with clips and can be replaced more easily.
On some modles it is on top of the heater coweling behind the glove compartment. on other models it is on the exterior under the hood just beside the heater hose/A.C. inlets.
I have never seen a listing for a diesel Ford Explorer SUV since they started manufacturing them in 1990 as 1991 models in the U.S.A.