Before jacking have a friend apply preasure to the brake peddal and loosen 36mm wheel nut 1/4 turn. Jack up and remove lug nuts, wheel and tire. Remove 2 bolts holding caliper and slide off caliper. Remove 36mm nut. Remove disk ,brake shoe retracting spring on (top), remove brake shoe adjusting spring (bottom), remove brake adjuster screw and shoe hold down springs. Remove emergency shoes.( When reinstalling set shoe dia. to 107mm)(4.212") Remove nut and bolt from toe link. Remove nut and bolt from upper ball joint. Connect a puller to lug studs and push center shaft to push out splined halfshaft. Finally remove the lower ball joint nut and bolt. Remove the wheel knuckle hub and bearing as an assembly. On a bench remove 3 bolts holding the knuckle. Press out hub from bearing using a good size press as the bearing is a good size. Remove retainer ring holding the bearing in the knuckle.(make sure you reinstall the same way as one side is tapered). Reinstall a new hub and bearing. Torque 36mm nut to 203 ft.lbs. I used Federal-Mogul bearing # 516008 (bearing dimensions are approximately 85mm o.d.x 47mm i.d.x 45mm wide. As you can see that a good size press may be needed. I used a 36mm socket to remove wheel nut. I paid $150 for the hub and bearing.
You need to remove the entire spendle assembly. Lay it on an open vise and with a correct size rod, from the inside, drive the center out until the rotor and outside bearing drops out. Do not disturb the bearing. Remove the four bolts from the rotor, which you can now get too and the rotor will come off. Replace the rotor with a new one and lay the spendle assembly on a hard surface and carefully drive the shaft back into the spendle. If you have a "slide puller" you can actually remove the assembly while the spendle is still on the car.
Raise and support the vehicle. Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Remove the drive axle nut. Remove the brake rotor. Remove the mounting bolts (1) from the hub and bearing assembly (3). Remove the hub and bearing assembly (1) from the steering knuckle (2) and drive axle shaft. Install is the opposite of removal. Torque the axle nut to 70 lb ft. Adam The Axle nut is torqued to 200 Ft. Lbs. It's the wheel bearing mounting bolts that are torqued to 70 ft. lbs. This is right out of GM factory info. I am replacing one myself and do not have the correct size Torx but it looks like a Torx 55. I have one but it's 1/2" Drive and won't fit thru the wheel hub hole so as to reach the bolt-crapola!
to replace pinion bearing and seal you need to remove drive shaft.you then remove the pinion nut from pinion shaft. u usually need a pretty good rattle gun to remove this .then remove yoke from front of differential.u may need a puller but usuall tapping with hammer will loosen it. remove the bearing and replace with new one then install seal and replace cover and ypke. replace pinion nut, fill with oil.replace drive shaft
That depends on the vehicle; you listed in far too many categories to have this researched for you. For many vehicles, especially front wheel drive vehicles, the front wheel bearings are part of an assembly and you will need to replace the entire assembly AND have the vehicle aligned when you're done. That runs up the price. For some vehicles, such as a 2 wheel drive Silverado, the wheel bearing just slips out when you pull the front hub. You DO need to work a little to remove the inner "race", but that's not too much difficulty. The whole job shouldn't be more than $40 or $50 for a 2 wheel drive pickup, but front wheel drive vehicles and 4 wheel drive pickups can be several hundred dollars.
to remove carrier bearing, u will need to removbe the drive shaft from the vehicle the carrier bearing is bolted to chassis with 2 bolts . these will need to be removed and the carrier and bearing will come out with the drive shaft one drive shaft is out you can then knock old bearing and carrier off of shaft with a hammer. the old carrier is no good so doesnt matter if you trash it once you get old one off, carefully known new one onto shaft until seated,being careful to note which is front of carrier bearing you can then reinstall cariier bearing and drive shaft to truck. NOTE: now is a good time to check and replace if needed the U-Joints on the drive shaft
If you can't see it, then it's inside the bell housing and you will have to pull the transmission to change it out. It is probably part of the throwout bearing assembly. If not, since you will have the tranny out, it would be a good time to replace the clutch and pressure plate as well as the throw out bearing. I'd also pull the flywheel and have it re-surfaced. Check out your "U"-joints also while you have off the drive line. You might as well do as much as you can while its apart
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