Before jacking have a friend apply preasure to the brake peddal and loosen 36mm wheel nut 1/4 turn. Jack up and remove lug nuts, wheel and tire. Remove 2 bolts holding caliper and slide off caliper. Remove 36mm nut. Remove disk ,brake shoe retracting spring on (top), remove brake shoe adjusting spring (bottom), remove brake adjuster screw and shoe hold down springs. Remove emergency shoes.( When reinstalling set shoe dia. to 107mm)(4.212") Remove nut and bolt from toe link. Remove nut and bolt from upper ball joint. Connect a puller to lug studs and push center shaft to push out splined halfshaft. Finally remove the lower ball joint nut and bolt. Remove the wheel knuckle hub and bearing as an assembly. On a bench remove 3 bolts holding the knuckle. Press out hub from bearing using a good size press as the bearing is a good size. Remove retainer ring holding the bearing in the knuckle.(make sure you reinstall the same way as one side is tapered). Reinstall a new hub and bearing. Torque 36mm nut to 203 ft.lbs. I used Federal-Mogul bearing # 516008 (bearing dimensions are approximately 85mm o.d.x 47mm i.d.x 45mm wide. As you can see that a good size press may be needed. I used a 36mm socket to remove wheel nut. I paid $150 for the hub and bearing.
v6 diagram of rear end please
how do i find out if i have ABS on my front wheel bearing , on my 2000 dodge Dakota quad cab 2 wheel drive
Here is a link to some good instructions. http://reviews.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy-Silverado-4x4-Front-Wheel-Hub-Bearing-Replacement_W0QQugidZ10000000002536494
Deadly, get it carefully to where you can work on it and replace it.
You need to remove the entire spendle assembly. Lay it on an open vise and with a correct size rod, from the inside, drive the center out until the rotor and outside bearing drops out. Do not disturb the bearing. Remove the four bolts from the rotor, which you can now get too and the rotor will come off. Replace the rotor with a new one and lay the spendle assembly on a hard surface and carefully drive the shaft back into the spendle. If you have a "slide puller" you can actually remove the assembly while the spendle is still on the car.
I had a 2000 Explorer with a grinding noise coming from the front . It my case, it was the axle bearing assembly on both sides. They are around 200 per side to purchase.
you don't, you have to replace the whole drive shaft.
Raise and support the vehicle. Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Remove the drive axle nut. Remove the brake rotor. Remove the mounting bolts (1) from the hub and bearing assembly (3). Remove the hub and bearing assembly (1) from the steering knuckle (2) and drive axle shaft. Install is the opposite of removal. Torque the axle nut to 70 lb ft. Adam The Axle nut is torqued to 200 Ft. Lbs. It's the wheel bearing mounting bolts that are torqued to 70 ft. lbs. This is right out of GM factory info. I am replacing one myself and do not have the correct size Torx but it looks like a Torx 55. I have one but it's 1/2" Drive and won't fit thru the wheel hub hole so as to reach the bolt-crapola!
Out of round or metal-metal on the pads or (possibly) bad bearing.
to replace pinion bearing and seal you need to remove drive shaft.you then remove the pinion nut from pinion shaft. u usually need a pretty good rattle gun to remove this .then remove yoke from front of differential.u may need a puller but usuall tapping with hammer will loosen it. remove the bearing and replace with new one then install seal and replace cover and ypke. replace pinion nut, fill with oil.replace drive shaft
Not knowing the extent of wear I can't answer that question with any degree of accuracy. I suggest replacing the bad hub/bearing assembly if you can hear the bearing rumble.