Bronco - a colt is a baby animal
The 1980 Suzuki key code switch is located near the ignition switch. This is the common location for most older models.
Probably not a bad ignition switch, but more likely a bad starter solenoid. It takes a lot of current to get a starter to turn, to much to go through such a small switch like the ignition switch. The ignition switch actually controls a relay(solenoid) which can handle the needed current to get the starter going. On a lot of modern cars the solenoid is built into the starter unlike older cars and trucks where it was mounted on the firewall between the battery and the starter.
A signal from the ignition switch closes the contacts in the relay to allow current to flow to the starter.
buy a Honda
You would have to replace the entire fuel and ignition systems with older types to bypass the computer.
If it is a newer model (no distributor) then it sounds like the Ignition Control pack is bad. If it is older (with a distributor) then replace the Ignition coil inside the distributor cap.
the only way i found that you can replace the ignition switch is to take it to somebody who has a strong enough drill bit, they will then have to drill out the rods that appear to be welded in, the guys at the dealership ended up really struggling and i got stuck with a big bill, by the way any auto parts store charge you about $100 for the ignition switch as well as $100 for the lock cylinder which chances are you will need at that point, especially if you have the problem any of the older toyotas have, which is keys broke off in the ignition, for as great of vehicles as Toyota has made you would thinnk the keys would be stronger, but my previa van is the third i have owned and is the third that had a key that broke in it, and this one eventually stopped turning with only have a key, and $300 later and after every homie of mine who was a mechanic telling me they were lost on this ignition, and it is running again, so best of luck to any who check this out mcl
Santa Fe is older
the newer bulbs that replace the older ones draw more power and overheat the headlight switch. buy a new headlight switch and try that, it worked on my 67.
If it's not a diesel, it's probably the ignition switch. Older non computer controlled engines can continue to run (badly) after the ignition is shut off due to a very high idle or a badly set timing.
This is a problem with the ignition swtich assembly becoming worn on an older vehicle and the contact points that power-up the accessory circuits as well as the engine electrics fail to make good electrical contact. The resolution is to replace the ignition switch assembly, which would run about US$300. maybe it could be the alternator? this won't go on for long before requiring replacement.
Need year and model. If it's older and on the dash push/pull type there is a small button to release the switch rod then you use a special tool to turn the nut on the front to release.
all automotive plugs are electronic ignition now,unless you have a 73 or older with points. newer plugs have a wider gap than older plugs.and last longer.
Yes, it will be the new Nintendo console. People won't stop making games for it right away, but it will eventually replace any older consoles.
Depends on year but normally close to the distributor, follow the H.T leads ffrom the spark plugs to the distributor, then to the coil. newer models have coil packs or transformer type coils which are sometimes flat looking, visually not similar to the older round coils at all...Bigbronco351
I'd replace the ECM (electronic Control Module). These are often the problem on older GM vehicles. It's fairly simple to replace. It's located directly under the distributor cap and rotor. Costs about $60 for the part.
This depends on the switch. A lot of older fireplaces have a millivolt valve with a toggle-switch sticking out. We usually remove the toggle switch and run the 2 wires that were connected to the toggle to a remote receiver box. This way any simple remote transmitter will act like an electrical toggle switch. Most receivers will recognize hundreds of thousands of signals so this is usually very convenient and takes about 3 minutes to turn a manual switch into a remote switch.
It depends on the type of car, but usually it's the keyswitch. Older vehicles sometimes have an ignition resistor that burns out, some have a switch that's part of the starter that can fail.
An electronic ignition tells the spark plugs when to fire to ignite the fuel. In older cars this was done mechanically by means of a distributor and rotor button.
You can jump start an older vehicle like this by shorting out the starter and solenoid with a screwdriver being careful to use one that doesn't ground you. You must have the vehicle switch to on. If you cannot get the vehicle to switch on you can hotwire the wire to the distributor to the battery. Not the safest way but in an emergency. A better way is to get a remote starter switch and wire it to the starter per its instructions. This is not to be confused with one of the newer remote starters which must be patched into the vehicles ignition and fuse box. You can also wire an ignition switch, preferably with an inline fuse, to the starter as well. This is a DIYer so if you have no electrical/mechanical training or experience then I'd get someone to help you. Good luck.
Voltage regulator a loose connection. Look around the switch. No loose wires or corroded terminals? Get a new regulator and put it on. Really the only way to test it on older bikes.
Older Chevy's have a steering lock when the key isn't in the ignition.
The small purple wire on the "S" terminal of an older GM vehicle starter would lead to the ignition switch. With the key in the start (crank) position, the purple wire signals the starter solenoid to engage the starter.
The ignition switch is riveted in place on many older motorcycles. If you don't own a riveting tool then you can fasten it with two small bolts and nuts. The wiring is easily reconnected as the proper connectors come with the new switch. If not, you have to figure out how to connect the wires to the switch by soldering them in place. You need the service manual for this. In general, the colors of the wires are the following: The black wire is the 12 volt power wire, the brown is the running lights, the yellow is the left turn signal and stop light, the green wire is the right turn signal and stop light, the white is the ground wire attached to the bike's frame. Blue is for the brake light.