first of all you must pull the axle nut. you will need a 32mm or 34mm socket, depending on the axle,a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a four foot piece of pipe. have an assistant hold the break while you turn the nut to the left.after you break th nut loose you may commence with taking the brake caliper and the caliper bracket off. next you will ned to take out the steering knuckle, however it is easier to just pull the tie rod, and both of the lower control arms, and then of course the upper control arm (1), because you cannot really get to the knuckle bolts that hold the end of the axle off until you can get it off and take a chisle and hammer to turn the nuts off DO NOT TAKE THE SHOCK BRACKET LOOSE!!. you DO NOT NEED A BALLJOINT, OR TIE ROD SEPARATOR!!! simply take a long handled screw driver or pry bar and push up or down, which ever you are trying to pull off, and any forged hammer and give the side of the joint a good smack while prying down or up on the joint. you may need to do this several times. and with factory hardware you need NOT worry about breaking the joints. after that the you must take the inner cv joint boot loose, this can be accomplished by using a screw driver and taking the end clip tabs and prying them up. the boot moves much similar to a pipe clamp on ventilation duct work. next pull out the inner cv joint end. you should not meet any resistance, however if you do, take a rubber mallet and tap the axle while pulling it away from the tranny. gently pull the axle through the shock/strut bracket and you magically have your cv axle. if you heard cracking in you axle you probably nee to replace the "tripod" on the inside, the axle is probably not messes up, but cracked boots allow sand, rocks, salt, etc. to get into the cv joint and you hear that great crackling sound when you turn, or go down the highway. if you are insistant on replacing the axle though, you can go to your nearest autoparts dealer and get yourself another set. before installing the new ones use a good degreaser and clean the inside of the inner (constant velocity) c.v. joints. use a good grease, i recommend Lubriplate grease and slop a good CLEAN handfull into the joit. if you don't already have the boot on the end of the shaft put it on now. then take your new shaft and tripod and coat the tripod and it's end liberally with grease before placeing it into the inner cv joint housing, reclamp, and reassemble the steering components in the reverse order you took them off. hope this long SOB helps out. PS: the outer CV joint can be replaced, but for the time and cost, you would be better off replacing it.
Unscrew radiator, should be two attachments connected to condenser. Unscrew them from the condenser and it should slide right out from in front of the radiator.
In front of the right front wheel, accessible from under car only.
it needs three REAR, FRONT , and FRONT RIGHT the first two are underneath and the front right is on the right by the strut tower
on the 420a its located right in front of the radiator cap. remove the 2 bolts(10mm) and there it is
The 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse OBD 2 port is on lower right edge of dash; next to kick panel
The starter is located right above where your muffler connects to the engine on the front side of the engine. if you are looking at it from under the car.
For me it's sound like you have problems with the right door. Check the rubber/palstic parts around the door.
Here's a few ways: The eclipse was scheduled for midnight. I own a Mitsubishi Eclipse. The right tackle eclipsed the fan he was speaking to.
It depends. if you have a eclipse that was made by chrystler then it is the one box deep behind the radio mounted on the floor board. it looks like an ecu but chrystler put that under the hood. If its a Mitsubishi made eclipse then the ecu is right beside the tcu behind your radio. the tcu in the Mitsubishi made car is to the right on the pasengers side.
Yes, "A" 1994 mitsubishi eclipse transmission will fit a 1992 mitsubishi eclipse, IF and only IF it's the right one 6 bolt fits 6 bolt and a 7 bolt fits a 7 bolt. Make sure you know Fwd and Awd and if it's 5 speed =)
On a 1995 non turbo Eclipse there are 2. One is at the front end of the car right off the exhaust manifold and the other which is on the long pipe just after the catalytic converter.
Its on the right side ,front of the tank screw off the bowl and install filter and bleed system
On the coil from left to right its 4,1,2,3 and on the valve cover from left to right its 4,3,2,1-hope this helps;again the #'s are from l to r standing in front of vehicle.
there is one under the hood on the right side towrds the front..in front of the computer and the other is under the dash on the driver side...its on the side and theres a plastic panal u have to take off
underneath right rear passenger seat.
Probably because the CD wasn't burned right
you must remove the inner fender well and the front facia, it poops right off, not too bad
the number one cylinder on a Mitsubishi eclipse 4g63 will be closest to you cam gears. on the far right of the valve cover
bad cv joints check under the car and see if there is a rubber boot on the drive shaft connection to the wheel
please be more descriptive.... if it is constant moaning it could be a wheel bearing.. if not it could be lots of things.
A person has to use the right type of fluid in a vehicle to help it run its best. The 2002 Mitsubishi eclipse RS uses DOT3 brake fluid as clutch fluid.
i have a 2002 eclipse gt with 65k and runs great n a 2001 eclipse gs with 130k on it. the car was built right buy it... 6g72 rules!
either on the door or right below the front window
its Lancer. get it right. and no
Its about 24 inches behind the front bumper, right in front of the oil pan. You'll lose about half a cup of oil when you twist it off. To install the new one, rub new oil on the gasket and spin the filter on until the gasket seats, then give it another 3/4 to 1 full turn.