This is the toughest water pump I've ever replaced, but it's not too bad once you have the right stuff. The key is to rent the "fan clutch removal tool" when you buy the new water pump. I got mine at Advanced Auto Parts, but Auto Zone had it as well. I know alot of mechanical people, but no one had wrenches that big just laying around. Don't forget to get permatex and antifreeze, and you might want to get a 2 1/2" and 1 1/2" hose clamp, my old ones didn't tighten up on the new pump. Look under the hood at the water pump. First, loosen but do not remove the four bolts on the water pump pulley. Now, take your 5/8 wrench and pry the tensioner (you might need a pipe or breaker bar here) to remove the belt and lay it aside. Now, you need to remove at least two of the bolts in the back of the fan blade to make room for the wrenches you rented. Put the big wrench on the bolt heads of the water pump pulley and the other wrench on the big nut behind the fan blade and loosen it. This can be on there pretty good, but it loosens to the left just like all the other bolts, just give it a little spunk. It helped me to lock the big wrench in behind the tensioner housing nut to help hold it still. Once you break it loose, the fan assembly should just spin right off the end of the water pump. Take the two bolts out of the top of the fan shroud and lift the shroud and fan out all together and set them aside. Now, you're finally down to doing a normal water pump repair. Remove the top water hose, the bottom hose, and the four bolts holding the water pump in place, and tap the pump free from the engine. Once it's loose, you need to drop the water pump down and to the left a little to get the hard top water pipe out from behind the other hoses. Clean up the water pump mounting location to remove all the old gasket, dirt and anti freeze. Do a good job on this, you don't want to have to start over because of old gasket material causing the new water pump to leak. Put a bead of permatex on the new pump and seat the new gasket in place and let it cure a bit to get good and stuck. Put another good bead of permatex on the engine, weasel the water pump back up in there where it was and bolt it back in place. Alternate tightening the bolts just like a tire to keep from putting it in a bind. Reassemble everything just like you took it out, check for leaks, return the tool for credit, and keep an eye on your radiator fluid for a few days. ! Yes I must agree with one of the "Toughest Replcacement Part!" After reading this commmentary completely, I ran into one "PROBLEM!", and this prior to starting pocedures on my 1994 F150 4x4 4.9L 300 6 cylinder truck, I called the 3 Ford Dealerships in my home area being Deil Ford, Accident, MD, Shaffer Ford Sales Oakland, MD and Scott Ford Kingwood, WV, to speak with their top Techs, Now My question was after several mechanics I personally know, said, " You better find out if the Clutch Fan Nut has reversible (left hand threads) , cause if you normally try to remove counter clock wise, you just might do damage to the Nut or what ever, when trying to break it free! The 3 Techs from Ford, said that I had to turn clockwise to remove Fan Clutch assembly cause mine was suppose to have left hand threads (reversible from normal)!!!! I did as instructed, "Big Mistake!!!!", the nut would not give!!!!! I called the main Ford Customer toll free in Detroit and Canada where truck was made. gave the Vin Number and all model description to their top techs, both of them, Quote "Our spechs say your's is left hand threaded and the manual says turn clockwise to loosen and counter clock wise to tighten!!!, BULL@#*%!!!!! I found after hours of fooling around with their needless and careless advice they were all 100% wrong!, The Nut was exactly as this person in his answer said it to be, NORMAL, loosen by turning counter clock wise!!!! Thinking about going with DODGE!!!!! LOL
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