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Pro mechanics always change the timing belt when they change the water pump; it takes just a little longer and you've almost GOT to remove the crank pulley to get the water pump out, because a cover that's not removable without removing the crank pulley, one that's extremely stiff to boot, seats in a groove in the water pump casting.

So...without further ado...

Step 1 is to remove all the drive belts, the water pump pulley, and all the other little stuff that's hanging off the front of the engine, which is always the end with the belts on it no matter which direction the engine is mounted in the car. Also drain the cooling system.

Step 2 is to use your 400-lb-ft electric impact wrench to break the crank pulley bolt loose. Remove the pulley, then all the plastic covers and the valve cover.

Step 3 is to put the pulley back on the engine after you've removed the valve cover, and get the timing mark on the cam pulley pointing up.

Step 4 is to remove the timing belt.

Step 5 is to change the water pump. It's held on by three 10mm-headed bolts. Unscrew bolts, remove pump, scrape all the old gasket off the block, put the new pump and gasket on and bolt it down.

Step 6 is to hang a new timing belt on the engine.

Step 7 is to put the car back together, including refilling the cooling system.

If you do it this way you'll spend about two hours and it will go right in. If you leave the crank pulley on, you'll spend about two days trying to pry the cover over the water pump.

Go to an auto parts store or a book store and purchase a CHILTON or HAYNES repair manual. It will tell you everything you need to know.

Well you have to have nimble fingers to get to the 3 or four screws. You also have to align the the pump holes, the gasket properly, I would also put on an appropriate gasket sealer before assembly. Just make sure that the thermostat is correct temperature and that it is facing the correct direction.

One more secret -- there are some small hose valves on the top of the engine - look for it that MUST be fully opened to let all the antifreeze mix out. Also open the bottom of the radiator of course to make it fully empty. Then close the radiator valve. then fill the radiator with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water and a water pump lubricant (about a 12 oz fluid container). Now make sure that the top hose valve is open so that all the trapped air is forced out of the system. Run the engine until it heats inside the car - having left the heater control on HOT/HIGH.

Then keep adding the mix until the reservoir is at the correct setting for hot - make sure that the meter also says medium-hot inside.

The recheck the system AFTER it has had a chance to cool down overnite - the overflow tank may have lost some fluid as it got sucked intot he radiator (cap fully tightened).

Bring up the fluid to at least the COLD mark if it is below about 40F.

Keep track of the total mix - premix if you can. Else you have to keep very accurate track of how much fluid were put in. Note: this car is very sensitive to the porep mixture - if incorrect and no lubricant added your new water pump will bite the dust in a few months - then you will have to do this all over again. :-)

1984 model. All info above is relevant, but it is possible to replace the pump with a bit of fiddling.

Unscrew the beltwheel (4 small screws size 10)

Push the belt out of the way.

Unscrew all bolts on pump and remove bracket to dynamo.

Unscrew the two bolt on the plastic cover closest to the water pump.

Pull out the water pump and replace with new one.(fiddly bit)

Remember to double check the gasket. and spin the pump to make sure it is aligned correctly inside the pump house. You will hear it if the pump touches the sides of house.

Tighten screws on pump.

Refasten plastic cover and dynamobracket.

Make sure the belt is tight.

Refill radiator as described above.

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Q: How do you replace the water pump on a 1988 or 1984 Honda Accord?
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