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First, set the engine to Top Dead Center. That means that cylinder one is at the top of it's stroke and the valves for that cylinder are closed. Marks on the engine are provided. Remove all the accesory drive belts from the side of the engine. Lift and support the front of the car on jack stands. Then, using a floor jack, support the engine on the jack with a black of wood on the jack to protect the oil pan. Remove the driver's side engine mount. Remove the four nuts that hold the valve cover on and lift it from the top of the engine. Remove the 19mm bolt holding on the crank pully. by using a Honda / Acura Harmonic Damper Pulley Holding Tool (MPN: 60100). http://www.Amazon.com/Tools-Crankshaft-Pulley-Holder-SIRHO50/dp/B00021TU3U It is VERY tight. I suggest you have a shop with an impact driver break it free for you, then snug it up just enough for you to drive it home. Remove the 19mm bolt and the pully. Remove the upper and lower timing belt covers. Raising and lowering the engine on the jack may be needed to gain clearance to remove the covers. Using one of the timing belt cover bolts, releave tention on the timing and balancer belts and lock it in position with the bolt. Remove the timing and balancer belts, being careful not to rotate any of the pullies. Unbolt the water pump and replace using a new gasket. I suggest applying black RTV sealant and letting it sit several minutes before installation on the new pump. Installation is much the same as disassembly, however, the balancers, camshaft, and crankshaft MUST be in correct allignment to reassemble. The front balancer is marked. The rear can only be properly alligned by inserting a 6mmx100mm rod into an access hole in the back of the block. The hole has a bolt plugging it, but it's fairly easy to identify as it is directly inline with the shaft. The camshaft pully has a mark on it in the form of an arrow that point to a mark on the timing belt cover, but it's unlikely to be moved because it is rather difficult to move. Marking the valve cover with it's proper location is a good idea. The crankshaft mark can be located on the transmission side of the motor andis usually plugged with a rubber stopper. Inside there is an indicator, and if the crank is positioned correctly, a line should be visible. Once the safts are all aligned, install the balancer belt, then the timing belt. Release the tentioner, but don't tighten the nut that locks it. I like to tention the belt at this stage. To do that install the large crank pully and the 19mm bolt. Don't tighten the bolt so tight you can't get it back off. Turn the engine COUNTERclockwise 2 full revolutions, not allowing it to turn the other way in the process. once done, tighten down the nut that locks down the timing belts. The belts are properly tentioned. If no unusual resistance was felt while you turn the engine, you have properly alligned all the engine shafts. If you felt resistance, you couldn't easily overcome, check all your alignment marks. If the shafts aren't properly aligned, the piston WILL hit the valve, trashing the engine. Once you've gotten this far, assembly is the reverse of disassebly and the hard part is over. Also, since Honda's require these belts replaced every 90,000 miles, replacing them now is probably a good idea given how labor intensive removal obviously is.

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โˆ™ 2007-11-03 21:29:09
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Q: How do you replace the water pump on a 1992 Honda Accord LX?
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