You need to first remove the black plastic cover on the passenger side of the engine. It's fairly easy to remove, but can be a bear to reinstall - I snipped the two ears off at the bottom of it and that made it easy to reinstall. Drain the coolant from the bottom valve on the radiator (plastic valve on the driver's side). From above, loosen all bolts to the pump, remove the belt, and then remove the pump. I forget if I removed it from the bottom or top, but either way, it's a tight fit. Clean the gasketing surfaces (pump and block), apply RTV to both sides of gasket and place on engine block. *** This is where trouble hit me. *** Find the best route to weasel the new pump in. I got it in from the bottom. Bolt up the pump (I forgot the torque value), install new belt, set the tensioner, reinstall black cover, put in new coolant.
Answer #2. Bear is correct a mundo. I own 4 of these cars, everyone in the immediate family. 30 mpg city is as seductive as can be.
Been wrenching for 40 years. ASE master, etc. Follow these instructions EXACTLY and we can stay friends.
a. take off undercarriage shrouds (10 mil bolts, the 3 which connect the shroud to the underengine support are unique thread and head -- built in washer and phillips, but a 10 works)
b. most shrouds have disappeared, so you can probably forget the above step.
c. take off the serpentine belt -- the one for the alternator, power steering, etc. There is a long arm at the front of the engine which pivots. A square 3/8 hole, just like your ratchet (what are the odds) will move the arm, then the belt comes off. P.S. Power steering and air conditioning was an option for these cars; never seen a car as basic as this, but I guess anything is possible.
d. Fun starts. You are going to remove the timing belt and its cover. But it ain't all that easy, because the motor mount at the front of the engine needs to come off, along with its vibration dampener, that funny looking piece of metal that says front. Need a 15 or 17 mil deep socket along with metric wrenches. When you take them loose, the engine will drop, so you better have a jack with a wooden block under the bell housing ready to go.
e. only now can you take off the black plastic shroud -- two unique 10 mil nuts (the base is wider on them). Oops. Shroud still won't come off. You need to pull the crank pulley (dampener) 19 mil socket, impact wrench works best (pulley held on with 100+ foot pounds). Once this bolt is out, the pulley slides off easily. Now the shroud comes off, clearing everything (jack is still supporting the engine). Don't cut up the shroud to get it off easier. Shroud holes let dirt into the timing belt, which cuts its life way down.
f. Now you've got to pull the timing belt off. It's tensioner bolt is 13 mil halfway up the engine, tensioned by means of an internal spring. Easiest way-- totally remove the bolt, it will go boing and remove all belt tension, and the spring will fly out and hide between the alternator and engine.
Almost like the factory planned it. Find this spring. You won't reuse it, but who wants crap dropping off engines onto the road.
g. You are going to replace the water pump AMD timing belt. Buy a belt from Auto Zone (my advice) and make SURE POSITIVE NO EXCEPTIONS THAT IT IS MADE IN ITALY. Goodyear and others have made them that are not flat -- they runout back and forth and make a racket that will drive you nuts, like a balloon that someone is rubbing on a chalkboard. Sounds like the tension bearing but isn't. Who needs this grief? And try to find it. Wheeeee.
h. Time for a break. All belts are off. Pulley is off, as is the timing belt tensioner pulley, the motor mount at the front of the engine, the shroud, the serpentine belt tensioner (I pull this tensioner arm, but you don't have to. I like stuff out of the way. Alas, to get its center 13 mil bolt out,. you need to move the power steering line away from the chassis. Two more 10 mil bolts. Also, to get the timing belt on correctly, you need to rotate the crank manually, which is much easier with no sparkplugs in the engine. Which is much easier to make 100% sure the front plug wire is on correctly if the alternator is removed. And the 2 10 mil self tapping bolts which run into the upper alternator bracket are usually stripped, so I helicoil them. Gets out of control pretty quick don't it??
i. Anyway, now you've got to take the hoses off the water pump. The fat one to the Radiator is rough, because the air conditioning compressor is in the way. You got it. Loosen, but don't drain the compressor. 4 bolts all identical (the top one you can't pull all the way off because the radiator is in the way. Who cares, because you can still drop the comp enough to let it hang.
j. now, you got access to the hose on the water pump. There are special hose pliers for this clamp. Buy them. They cost $10. Will pull this clamp and the one on the other side of the pump. Don't cheap out and substitute screw type clamps for these constant tension clamps -- one month later they will need tightening, back under the car, etc.
k. pump on. Don't slobber silicone on just the gasket. Sparingly Spread it with your fingers onto the block and the pump. This sealer needs to get into the pores of the metal. By the way, your valve cover is leaky also. Buy the gasket and note that Felpro doesn't recommend any gasket cement. Incorrect. Buy a small tube of the gray ultra silicone and force it into the pores of the head and the valve cover. Now your 1.9 will no longer leak.
l. Get ready to put on the timing belt. As you noticed, the water pump includes the new timing belt bearing. Odd, that. Make sure the notch on the bottom washer which goes in front of the timing belt (on the crank) is in a line with the small triangle of the cam above. Heavy crank pulley still off -- you only need to dry fit it to rotate the crank by hand. MUCH easier to rotate the crank with the plugs out. Now, put the spring for the timing belt tensioner in its place, put the bolt in the pulley, and shove it and the spring all the way to the left (as if there was no timing belt tension). Then, wrap the timing belt around the crank , then over the cam, then past the belt tensioner bearing, then over the water pump, back to the crank. Essentially, start at the crank and wrap counterclockwise. Then, loosen the timing belt tensioner bolt so that the bearing pops against the belt. DON'T TIGHTEN THIS BOLT YET. Rotate the engine a couple of times by hand (plugs out, easy, etc.) then double check belt timing. This engine will run if the belt is off a notch. and even drive. Loads of fun to reset the belt, which I have done. Ahem. Then, tighten the tensioner bolt. 35 foot pounds, not lots.
J. Radiator hose back on the pump. Use some grease (or better yet vaseline) on the inside of the hose so that the hose will set and seat properly on the pump. Same for the heater supply hose on the other side. DON'T USE SILICONE. Pieces of silicone will break loose on the inside and clog your heater core. If you think the grease will help the hose blow off, wrong-o.
K. All stuff reassembled. Each and every bolt, motor mount to shroud, has a specific torque. I've written them down, but you can't have them.
l. Easy huh????
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