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It isn't very hard but you need instruction. Go to Auto Zone and get a shop manual on your car for about $18 and it should have pictures and everything.

You'll need metric wrenches/sockets and 3/8 torx bit set.

1. drain coolant

2. with the drive belt still on, remove the 3 bolts that hold the pulley to the water pump. If the pulley rotates while trying to remove the bolts have a friend use a 1/2 rachet on the belt tensioner to put more tension on the belt so that way you can remove it.

3. take a 1/2 rachet or breaker bar and insert it into the belt tensioner and pull towards the front of the car releasing the tension on the belt allowing you to remove the belt.

4. Remove the pulley and be prepared to get fustrated. there are 10+ bolts/nuts and 2-3 torx bit bolts. The fun part is removing them. There is not alot of torque on these bolts so breaking them loose is not an issue. its not really a problem its more of a hassle. This is where a geared wrench would be real nice. Space is really the issue when you get to the bolts toward the rear, once you get all the bolts just pry the water pump off.

5. clean up any gasket material off the engine block and clean all the threads on the bolts.

6. put a small bead of silicone(rtv) on the both sides of the gasket(although not really necessary) then put water pump/gasket on the block and put all the bolts back in.

7. you should be able to tighten them as much as you can but remember there is not much torque needed, make sure to over all the bolts.

8. put the pully back on and tighten the pulley bolts and put the belt back on and tighten the pulley bolts again.

9. fill up on coolant

Here's more input from another FAQ Farmer:

  • I just changed mine on my 94 Deville and it was not too bad. It has the 4.9 liter. First, get a replacement pump. Please note the importance of not removing the two bolts holding the timing cover to the water pump inlet cover. They are to the right and below the pump. After draining the radiator, remove the strut-to-core support brace, the battery, and finally the coolant recovery tank. (note: horn has to be removed for the recovery tank to clear the A/C receiver/dryer) Then carefully feel around the pump and count all the fasteners. I actually layed the new pump in front of me while I worked. While the belt is still on the motor, loosen the 4 drive pulley bolts on the pump slightly but don't remove them yet. Now you can take note of the serpantine belt path and remove it from the car via a 1/2" drive ratchet on the tensioner. Next, remove the drive pulley you loosened earlier. Now remove all the bolts and nuts holding the pump on the timing cover. I believe I used a 1/4 drive 10mm, 15mm socket, and a T45 or T50 Torx wrench. After all are removed, carefully removed the pump via a putty scraper and a little force taking note not to damage the timing cover, as this will result in a leak. After removal, carefully clean the cover of any and all stuck gasket and wipe dry with a cloth. To prepare the new pump for installation, adhere the included gasket to the pump with liquid shellac gasket compound. This holds the gasket in place while you install the pump in the tight space. After coating the other side of the gasket and lining the pump up with the engine, start two bolts to hold it in place. Go ahead and force it in place and start and finger tighten all the remaining bolts and nots. Then torque in this sequence: Torx and 15mm headed bolts - 30ft lbs. The 7, 10 mm hex nuts - 5 ft lbs. The 7, hex head bolts - 5ft lbs. Next, install the pump pulley as tight as you can and then install the belt and final tighten the pullet bolts. All remaining steps are just the reverse order.

Use high tack instead of silicone. Its much cleaner and goes on more evenly.

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โˆ™ 2015-07-15 18:59:50
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Q: How do you replace the water pump on a 1995 Cadillac DeVille 4.9L fwd?
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