ok you take the driver side closes to the front #1 fireing plug out and the valve cover off roll the engine until you see the intake valve open up what you will see is the second spring from the front of the engine be pushed down keep turning until you see it come back up ok now look at the timing chane cover there will be a piece of metal that sicks out and looks like a saw blade just above the balancer the vally that is the widest is where the line in the balancer gos the line on the balancer is easy to see you wont miss it ok now that you have the piston on the compresson stroke put the line one the ballancer right in the middel widest vally on the timing chane cover you are now at top dead center on the compression stroke for #1 fireing cylinder now if you havent all ready take a marker and make a mark right where the #1 plug wire gos on not on the cap its self but on the aluminum where the cap gos on to number one plug wire its the one just in front of the squar piece on the distrubeter cap driver side now remove the cap and see if the rotor is close to the #1 plug wire if not no sweat pull the distrubuter out of the block go get a VERY long straight screw driver and a light look down the hole you will see the oil pump rod you need to line the pump rod up with the distrubeter or it will not drop in all the way this takes some time to get right but stay with it you will get it keep turning the pump rod so when the distrubeter drops in the rotor is poients straight at the mark you made earlyer make sure it sits all the way down in the block if its all the way down in the block and the rotor and mark you made are lined up you are all set tighten the hold down for the distrubeter just enough to stop it from moveing but still be able to move it with your hand put every thing back on the engine and it should light right up then use a timing light to set the advance 8 deg before top dead center and your in the money
good luck don't ever give up on a Chevy johnny fast
350 4 Barrel is what is in mine
That year sets at ZERO TDC.
G20 is a 3/4 ton and a G30 IS A 1 TON
It is 2701Kg Yes The G30 is a 1 ton.
Remove the water supply hoses from your 1985 Chevy heater core. Remove the heater core retaining bolts. The heater core will come out. Reverse the process to install your new heater core.
In the alternator
41 to 47 psi
Look in the removable housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose
Depends on overall condition, mileage, options, etc...
I have a 1992 Chevy G30. Takes 10 quarts if the torque converter is empty.
First you have to determine the cause of the leak then decide how to go about repairing it. It may only need new gaskets or it may need to have the manifold machined or replaced.
Fuel pump is located inside the gas tank.
easiest way is to send it to a mechanic shop
mine has 8.25-16.5 commercial tires on it as far as i know that is factory
Follow the top radiator hose to the engine and you will see a housing that the hose clamps to and it will be under that housing
It is screwed into the drivers side head up front between the first 2 spark plugs.
There is no map sensor on a diesel van... Please use your brain before you post.
no a g30 is a 3500 or 1 ton a g2500 is a 3/4 ton g2500 = G20
The 1995 Chevrolet G30 with the 5.7L V8 specifies two different EPA fuel economy sticker values. The estimated highway is 15 miles per gallon (mpg), and 13 city. The combined fuel economy average is 14-mpg.
depending on the year. it proberly has a mech. pump
on the harmonic balancer there is a notch that represents 0 degrees and usually there are also stamped marks indicating degrees of advance and retard
8.75R16.5 LT Read it right off my tires, on _my_ 1982 Chevy G30. The"LT" is for "light truck" and may be optional. R is "Radial", which were on it when I bought it -- and I've used them ever since. The rims or wheels are 8 lug, standard for 1-ton load rating. (G30 = 1 ton) These are also 16.5" in diameter. CiP
The 30 series can safely carry more weight than the 2500 series.