Clean the end of the pipe and whatever kind of fitting you are putting on it with either steel wool or fine sandpaper. Put flux on both pieces covering all the surface where they will be joined. Use a propane torch and heat on one side of the fitting and touch the solder on the opposite side. When the solder gets hot enough to melt, it will be drawn to the heat source. By having the solder on the opposite side from the heat you know there is solder completely around the fitting. Let it cool before handling.
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∙ 13y agoYOU thread or braze copper pipe Copper tubling you solder, braze, flaire, compression ring, mechincal joints
tig or mig depending on the wall thicknessCopper to copper is either soft soldered, or silver solderedSilver solder is a bad term as "solder" normally means lead content according to the AWS
When I have to connect copper to lead "D" I usually solder the copper to the lead or wipe a lead joint depending on the diameter To connect copper to cast iron ,.... If there is a hub I caulk the copper directly into the CI with oakum and poured lead (molten) OR one can solder / braze a female adapter fitting and screw the copper into a CI female fitting
Not cleaning the pipe or joint enough, not using flux, or not heating the pipe or joint enough. You use the blue tip of the flame on the joint and the capillary action sucks the solder into the joint. You have to clean the pipe with sandpaper or steel wool, the joints with a fitting brush on the inside, and use a proper flux and solder.
Brazing is a process used to join a gap in piping or other metal parts. It is technically impossible to do on only one end, since the way it works requires two sides to work in. Tried to answer this last night and was edited out. I'll try again While you can braze a copper pipe end, you usually don't. You solder it. Use whatever type of fitting on the end that you need. If you are just stopping the pipe, use a cap. Clean both the pipe the the inside of the cap with steel wool or fine sandpaper. Apply a coating of flux to each surface where they overlap and put the cap on the pipe. Heat one side of the cap with a propane torch and hold the solder on the opposite side. When the cap get hot enough to melt the solder, it will draw the liquid solder around the pipe to the flame. Once it does that, remove the flame and allow it to cool before messing with it. That's all there is to it. You could braze the cap to the pipe, but that would only connect the edge of the cap where it meets the pipe. The brazing rod would not melt between the whole cap as solder does. If absolutely had to, you could crimp the end together and braze the joint. That's the last resort.
YOU thread or braze copper pipe Copper tubling you solder, braze, flaire, compression ring, mechincal joints
Take either an SOS pad or a wire brush and rough up both the inside of the brass fitting and outside of copper pipe, put the copper pipe into the fitting and solder around it.
To make a lead or copper pipe all you need is sheet copper/ lead and either lead wipe /solder /braze the end or if copper use a Pittsburg found in sheet metal shops to make the seam
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What to use to solder a shut off valve
tig or mig depending on the wall thicknessCopper to copper is either soft soldered, or silver solderedSilver solder is a bad term as "solder" normally means lead content according to the AWS
Sandcloth the end being soldered. Squish the end with pliers so it is tight. Put flux on the end and solder. Easier to buy a copper cap and solder that on!
Use a lead-free silver solder. It is the only thing that can handle the pressure and bond with the copper pipe.
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It is probably referring to the type of fitting. A fitting that is soldered to a copper pipe. It is called sweating when you use solder and a torch to connect copper pipe together or attach fittings to copper pipe.
When I have to connect copper to lead "D" I usually solder the copper to the lead or wipe a lead joint depending on the diameter To connect copper to cast iron ,.... If there is a hub I caulk the copper directly into the CI with oakum and poured lead (molten) OR one can solder / braze a female adapter fitting and screw the copper into a CI female fitting
Wet on the surface is no problem, it will evaporate with the torch. If there is water in the pipe, it will not solder because the water keeps the copper from getting hot enough. As long as the water is below the point of solder, it will work. Open the nearest valve or have some way for the steam to get out of the pipe.