i have to drain out 4800 cusec of water
Drain valves are not designed to mist. They are designed to evacuate liquid that is still in the line after the water is turned off. A manufacturer in Arizona (AmFog Nozzle Technologies) has information on their website for drain valves and misting nozzles; their YouTube videos also explain how the drain valves and misting nozzles work.
The key word is "drain", meaning it works by gravity, so a drain value should be at the lowest point in the system. Typically there is one just past the meter. If a lawn irrigation system is a branch of the main system it should have its' own drain valve for winterizing it. You can purchase stop valves (or shutoff valves) with built-in drain or bleeder valves.
there are valves on bilge pumps so that if there are traces of oil in the bilge water, the valves will close so that the oily water will not be discharged overboard. The valves are required to be screw down non-return valved
It should not have water in it, especially if freezing weather is expected. Drain the pool to below skimmer line and drain the filter and filtration equipment.
Is this a sand filter? How many valves control the flow of water? It appears the b/w valve is defective.
Your question seems too easy as it is a basic requirement of pool cleaning. However: Attach your vacuum head to your side outlet (unscrew the cover in the side of the pool) using a floating hose. turn off the valves to the bottom drain and the skimmers, leave the pump setting on filtration, fill the hose with water and turn on the pump. After vacuuming the bottom of the pool, switch off pump and return valves to previous setting. be sure to backwash the filter after cleaning if required.
A "return drain" in reality would be called a return fitting . It's the one where the filterer, heated water goes back to the pool thus RETURN. Main Drain is that grate looking device at the deep end of the pool on the bottom where water is sucked from the pool and sent to the pump - the part of the equipment with the motor and clear lid. The filter - sometimes wrongly referred to as the pump - is the large round or vertically rectangular shaped tank. You need both. k
Not unless the drain and or tub is full of water and you have no heat on or it gets below freezing in the house.
No. You cannot use the main drain to lower the water level below the skimmer. This is because the main drain is not really a drain. It only connects right back to the 3 port valve in the skimmer.
syphon to a drain that is below the height of the base of the tank
there are not water valves on every horn. usually it is attached to the leadpipe on the back of the horn near the bottom. its right below (attached to but below) the open f side's valve
I have been taught to drain the tanks at the end of every day so as to help prevent water and or oil from compressor getting into the complex valves that trucks rely on these days. Oil mixed with the condensation becomes a thick sludge and can gum valves completely over time or slow the normal operation of the valves down. Gear changes or brake systems rely on good efficient operation of many air valves specially late model trucks.
The most likely cause of this is simply that the drain hose or the drain it goes into has become kinked, or clogged with schmootz, (the lint and stuff carried in the drain water). Try cleaning both, the drain preferrably with a snake.
when your water level is about 6 inches below the item. when your water level is about 6 inches below the item.
Since you will be draining some of the water first there is no pressure to worry about. Shut off the water supply (for a shower, it usually means you need to shut off the water at the meter) and open the shower valves (hot & cold, if applicable) then find a sink, toilet or outdoor water faucet at some level below the height of the items you are to replace. You don't have to open them for long... a few seconds will do. This allows air to enter the shower valves and pipes and will drain to a point so that dripping water will not be a problem.
Not for the faint of heart! For a Combi/Evaporation boiler: Switch off the boiler. Take a reading of the boiler water pressure gauge. Shut off the radiator's thermostat valve(if fitted)/supply valve and return valves, connect a hose to the drain and put the other end into a large container below the level of the bottom of the radiator. Open the draincock first and then the air bleed valve and let the radiator drain. Close the draincock. When refilling the radiator put the anti-corrosion treatment in first then open the thermostat valve and return valve as wide as possible. when the air is expelled, close the air bleed screw. Using the fill loop restore boiler pressure. Put all thermostat valves(if fitted) to max and fire up the boiler. After the boiler has run for 10 minutes, switch off, or so go to the highest radiator and bleed out the air. WARNING: the water/steam will be very hot and likely to spit. Use a cloth as a barrier and to mop up any spills. Recheck the boiler pressure and top up as necessary.
The drain pipe should have a vent that goes up where the sink drain goes into it. That is where it vents. Sinks drain because there is nothing causing a vacuum when the water leaves the sink.
As long as the water doesn't drain out of the heater somehow, no. What kind of car are we working on...
Depends how the pool was plummed. If you have a dedicated main drain line, or you share a main drain line and a skimmer line. Both are suction lines to the pump,meaning they will go into the front of the pump. If you have several valves on the front of the pump, and hopefully they are labeled you could try to shut all of them except the main drain and use what is called a drain king. It hooks to a waterhose and swells inside the pipe forcing water in the opposite direction. If you dont have any valves on the front of the pump ,chances are you share suction with the skimmer. check the inside bottom of the skimmer. Main drain may be plummed to skimmer bottom.
The drains of the two are connected, and then feed to a common drain. If the drain line is blocked below the sinks, water cannot flow out the drain, so will flow from a full sink to an empty. Look under the sink, and you will see the drain line arrangement. Get the clog fixed, and it will stop doing that.
Assuming it's part of the central heating system you may be lucky and be able to turn both valves either side of the radiator to off. If you can then disconnect the valves from the radiator. If you can't turn off the valves you need to first find out the size of the pipe feeding the radiator and whether it is made of copper or steel. Buy two compression stop taps or 'Stop ends 'of the right diameter , or steel plugs with PTFE tape. Before you start work find the header tank in the loft. Tie up the ball valve that refills the tank so that the water supply is cut off. Drain the heating system down by finding a drain cock at the lowest point in the house. Push a garden hose on to the drain cock spout and if necessary tighten with a jubillee pipe clip.Open the drain cock with a suitable spanner and turn anticlockwise until water drains out into the garden drain. When all water is drained attempt to dissconnect the radiator in question . Either cut through the pipes with a hacksaw if you have the right stop valves and fit new stop ends. If the radiator valves can be undone disconnect them from the radiator. If they don't move apply heat to the valve body with a blow lamp and use a pair of stilsons to undo the nuts.
I'm not sure what you mean. A drain pan protects the area below the water heater from ruin if the water heater begins to leak. You can prevent major damage by putting a water alarm ($12) in the pan to be warned if the heater begins to leak.
An S trap would go through the floor. A P trap goes through the wall. As long as the drain is below the bottom of the sink, it should drain. Distance between the bottom of the sink, the trap and the drain does not matter, it just changes how much water stay in the drain. Normally it is just in the trap, but it can be above the trap if circumstances cause the trap to be lower than usual.
It is either the drain line below the air conditioner condenser or a leaky heater core. If the water is cold it is the drain line. If the water is warm and sweet smelling it is the heater core.