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The following applies to the 350, the 6.2 Diesel, and probably all other Chevrolet engines.

There is a heavy cable coming from the battery to the big stud on the front end of the starter solenoid. The nut takes either a 9/16 or 5/8 wrench. On my 1977 there is a lighter cable going from this same stud to the fuse board. On later vehicles you may find the fuse board fed directly from the battery through a fusible link.

On the front end of the solenoid nearest the driver there is a thin stud with a nut taking either an 11/32 or 5/16 deep socket. This takes a light cable coming from the ignition/starter switch, possibly via a firewall solenoid and (if an automatic transmission) a transmission switch which closes only when the transmission is in park or neutral.

There is also a thin stud on the front end of the solenoid furthest from the driver. No external wire attaches to this.

If there is a front support for the starter, be sure to attach it to the stud on the front of the starter.

With the flywheel pan removed check the pinion clearance with the pinion shoved back to engage the flywheel. I find a large paper clip is just the right thickness for this job. Adjust the clearance by adding or removing shims where the starter contacts the engine block. There are two big screws holding the starter to the engine block. To change shims you must remove the screw furthest from the driver and loosen the screw nearest the driver.

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Q: How do you wire a Chevy three-quarter ton pickup starter?
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