new light switch somewhere nearby - either in the same room or in the next room
which is just on the other side of the wall containing the wall outlet - you'll need to
run a new set of wires from the socket outlet to a new fused wall switch and another
set of wires from that new switch to the new lighting fixture.
A) Before you start, be sure to check the electrical wiring code for your locality (town/state) because the new wiring MUST comply with the safety requirements stated in that wiring code. Some localities will allow this work to be done by an amateur as a DIY job but others will insist that it must be done only by a licensed electrician, especially if the room or location in which the new lighting fixture is to be used will be subject to humid conditions of any kind. This means any place where there is a piped water supply, such as in a kitchen, bathroom, shower room, laundry room, etc. or any outside location such as the yard/garden outside the house. In other words, anywhere where the walls, floor or ceiling are subject to water spray, damp conditions, moisture or wetness of any kind. Your local wiring code will give detailed instructions about its installation requirements for such conditions.
B) In addition, depending on the locality and the actual installation site, some wiring codes will require - for personal safety reasons - that a new lighting circuit connected to an existing power socket outlet must be fitted with a protective device such as a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) or Residual Current Device (RCD). If the wiring code requires one of these protective devices you must fit one into the circuit to be compliant to the code.
C) The present socket outlet will be protected by a fuse on the main breaker panel that is suitable only for power socket outlets. That fuse may not "blow" if a fault condition ever occurred somewhere in the new lighting circuit. So, to give the new lighting circuit proper protection from fire hazards, it is advisable to use a new wall switch of the type which includes its own 3 AMP fuse.
D) It is essential that you find a secure place to mount the new lighting fixture. Depending on the type of room or location it may or may not be allowed to position the fixture on to a wall or the ceiling. If the location is to be the ceiling, the light fixture must be screwed through the plaster on to a wooden joist above the plaster board, not just on to the ceiling plaster alone.
Assuming you have noted all the above advice, here are some general instructions as to how to proceed with the simplest of installations. If you have a more complicated installation to do, such as one requiring a GFCI or RCD, you must follow the instructions supplied with that protective device.
1. Switch all the power off at the panel using the main power switch and then
CHECK that there is NO POWER at the socket outlet by using a meter or voltage
indicator to insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
2. Install a new wall box in the wall to house the new fused switch.
3. By unscrewing the fixing screw(s) remove the existing socket outlet from its
wall box. From that wall box run a new length of lighting cable - containing a
black (hot) wire, a white (neutral) wire and a bare or green (ground) wire -
to the new wall box for the new fused switch.
4. Working on the existing socket outlet, to connect the "hot" wires together,
unscrew the screw in the brass terminal that has the existing black wire(s) in it.
Put the new black "hot" wire into the terminal and tighten the screw to hold all
the black wires together in the terminal.
5. Working on the existing socket outlet, connect the new white "neutral" wire
into the terminal that has the existing white wire(s) in it.
6. Working on the existing socket outlet, connect the new bare or green "ground"
wire into the terminal that has the existing bare or green wire(s) in it.
7. Run a new length of lighting cable containing a black (hot) wire, a white (neutral)
wire and a bare or green (ground) wire from the new wall box for the switch to the
wall or ceiling box for the new light fixture.
8. If there is a ground terminal already supplied as part of the new wall box,
the bare or green ground wire coming from the existing socket outlet should
be connected to that ground terminal.
9. Also to that ground terminal connect the ground wire of the cable going to the
position where the new lighting fixture is to be mounted, even if the lighting fixture
itself does not require a ground wire. That should be done so that if, in future, the
lighting fixture is replaced by another one that does need a ground wire, it can be
connected easily and safely.
10. If there is no ground terminal already supplied as part of the new wall box for the switch, connect all the bare or green ground wires together in the terminal marked for a ground wire on the new fused switch, if the switch has one. If the switch does not have a ground terminal then use a proper insulated connector to connect all the ground wires together.
11. If there is a terminal marked for a ground wire on the new fused switch and you have not already used it as was advised in Step 10, use a six to nine inch length of green wire to connect it to the ground terminal in the new wall box, if there is one, or to the connector mentioned in Step 10.
12. Connect the black wire in the cable coming from the existing outlet to the
"Supply" hot terminal of the new fused switch.
13. Connect the black wire in the new cable going to the new lighting fixture to the
"Load" hot terminal on the fused switch.
14. Similarly, connect the white "Supply" and "Load" wires to the terminal marked
"Neutral" on the fused switch. If there are two separate Neutral terminals marked
for "Supply" and "Load" wires, use those accordingly. If you have decided not to use
a fused switch (even though it is good practice to use one for this kind of application)
then you must use a proper insulated connector to link the white "Supply" and "Load"
15. Now connect-up the new lighting fixture to the new supply cable, being careful
to fit the hot, neutral and ground wires into the correct terminals. If the new lighting
fixture does not have a terminal for a ground wire then simply put the end of the
ground wire into a separate insulated electrical connector and cover it with some
green tape so it is available for future use on a different lighting fixture which may require it.
16. Check that all the terminal connections in all the fittings are screwed tight.
17. Then, using the appropriate screws, fix the old socket outlet and the new
fused wall switch into their respective wall boxes and also screw the new
lighting fixture to its wall or ceiling box.
18. Switch on the main power switch at the main panel and check that the new
fused wall switch and lighting fixture work satisfactorily.<><><>
As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
click the play/pause and hold, repeat to switch off
What sensor are you trying to replace? More 411 required to anwer/help you...
Open up your amp and see if there is loose wiring on your on/off switch. If so, you can take a soldering iron and fix it. If that doesn't work, or that's not the problem, then you can take it in to a guitar shop for a replacement switch, which will only cost you around $10.
Run a fused HOT line from the fuse block to the switch under dash - the other end to the cooling fan
location of fuel pump on/off switch on fo r d ANSWER The fuel pump inertia switch is in the right front passenger area , it is below the dash but above the carpet in the right hand corner
On fire wall or on heater plenum there should be a relay, also the GEM a brain that controls many functions may be bad
Incorrect refrigerant charge?
You have a CODE stored on the transmission computer! Also did you check the trans fluid level? it may be low.
Have vehicle scanned to determine problem, possible severe misfire.
if it has a speed odometer senser in the rear end that is probally the problem it loses magnitizum not giving a good reading on the speed the vehicle is going so it jumps in and out of od will make you think you need a trany part cost $30 dollars and 10 mins
I found a great mechanic in the area and within 2 hrs and 70.00 dollars later he found there is a screw in switch up and behind the brake pedal with a "plunger type of mechanism" which over time the cruise control cut-off switch managed to "unscrew itself" which caused the cruise control not to engage. He has my business.
Get it serviced. Depending on the model there could be several different causes for your problems.
I have the same problem - I was recommended a brake fluid drain and brake fluid sensor replacement - haven't done it yet, but hopefully it works. Dealer quoted me $190.
did you find a switch, yet? would you pay $25 w/free shipping. I have the switch, in perfect condition, working light, mounted in a spirit of st. Louis mark ll serial # 97.29150568K control certificate MY27. the unit is in cosmetically near-perfect condition, however, the cassette works, but was never used, and doesnt spin at uniform speed, and the volume switch doesn't go from low volume to high volume properly, but after reading reviews, perhaps it was made this way. entire unit is available plus 6 pounds shipping from your zip code, if interested, make me an offer . I cannot find out what these sold fo new (to your advantage) .thanks chuck email@example.com 7347820276
A bit is the smallest unit of information storage, representing a binary value of 0 (off) or 1 (on).
A dock, it is also the area of water between two piers or alongside a pier that receives a ship for loading, unloading, or repairs.
AnswerOn my 96 limited the controls are on the mirror for the auto matic lightsas well as the tinting mirrorAdditionMy '98 lmtd. is similar. There should be a sliding switch on bottom center of rear-view mirror, sliding it all the way to the LEFT should de-activate the auto settings, returning control of lights to light switch,(wherever yours happens to be).1994 Ford Explorer Limited Edition: the automatic headlight control is on the plug in rearview mirror. Pushbutton off/on, turn that off; then you can turn headlights on and off as usual using the push/pull control found on the dash next to the driver's side door.
Depends on radio type. Most of these switches are 'momentary contact, which is to say the switch makes contact, then returns to its original state, sending a pulse. If your switch is of this type, the mechanical function sounds fine and the prob. may be a logic circuit and not the switch. The on\off switch on my radio is also combined with the volume knob,(pushing vol. knob turns unit on\off.) I'm afraid these are probably un-fixable. Sorry for being so verbose.I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM ON 95 LINCOLN AND WAS QUOTED 300 DOLLARS TO REMOVE FIX AND INSTALL. AFTER MANY TRIALS I FINALLY CAME UP WITH AN EXTERNAL FIX FOR 5 DOLLARS. WILL SEND PART AND INSTRUCTIONS UPON RECEIPT OF CHECK OR MONEY ORDER TO RADIO 45328 LORIMER LANCASTER CA. 93534.
nhs direct speak with a nurse Just call 0845 4647
Check the fuse in the fuse box and then check the fuse on the back of the radio. Some VW radios have a 10A fuse in the back. To remove the radio either use the VW special tools or take a credit card and cut it to the size of the slots at the front. Push the tools into the slots and it unlocks the radio.
More than likely you have the directional control set to Defrost. At this setting, the A/C compressor will run continuously. Move the selector to another setting, and see if the compressor stops running.
If you have an older bike (pre 1981) before they went to a 17 digit vin, you will have to check with a dealer. No one knows how, nor is there a website, to decode the older vin numbers.
Your computer brain in your truck is messing up take it to a mechanic is my advice. Not sure I even understand what you are asking,but, If its what I think , its just a matter of turning on your lights. For some reason Chevy thought it would be a good idea to have just your low beams and the high beam dash light come on automatically when it got dark, don't ask me why. If this is not it rephrase you question and be more presice.
Being a licensed master plumber IN New York City I know for a fact there are 1,200 LMPS in NYC to service the buildings as required by NYC plumbing code. Even old tenements have certain codes that have to be followed as I am now servicing a building built and still using the original piping since 1853
At 48 you're heading fast for menopause anyhow, so it's an open question whether you'll get any regular cycles again.