there should be 5 wires, hot and switched hot for the switch and hot, neutral and ground for the gfci receptacle.
Is the GFCI wired correctly. Voltage in goes to LINE. Voltage out goes to LOAD. Ground wires connect together and connected to ground on GFCI. All screws tight. If all this is correct and you have no loose wires on any of the outlets and no wires are shorted out in any of the outlets then more than likely you have a defective GFCI. Replace it with another one. I get bad ones all the time.
You find out which of the two black wires was installed incorrectly without being taped or sleeved in white. Then you put the white sleeve or tape on and connect the black and white wires to the hot and neutral terminals of the GFI, respectively. If you only have two black wires that are both "hot", such as in a single-pole light switch, you cannot install a GFCI there.
This indicates either you have an active ground fault or the GFCI is bad. To check this out turn off power at breaker and remove GFCI outlet from wall box. Determine if it is powering other non-GFCI outlets. (It will have both input and output wires. If there are output wires remove them and check the outlet again with power and see if it resets. If it does you have a ground fault down the line somewhere. If it still doesn't work you likely have a bad GFCI.
Of course it is possible. However, more often there is something external to the GFCI that causes the GFCI to trip. There may be other outlets connected to the GFCI or there may be moisture in circuit causing a ground fault. Open the box where the GFCI is located and see if there are any wires on the output side. If so remove them with the power off and see if GFCI trips when you turn power back on. If GFCI still trips, turn off power and remove GFCI entirely. Connect it to another working circuit and see if it still trips. If it does, you have a bad GFCI device. Never mess with wiring unless you are absolutely sure that the power is off.
I'm assuming your 3 sets of wires are black or red, or some other color normally associated with the "hot" wire, a white for neutral and a green or bare conductor for ground. If your GFCI protects only itself and no other receptacles, you splice all the wires of the same color together and attach 'pig tails' to your splice to connect to the GFCI. If your GFCI protects other receptacles 'down stream', you connect only the hot and neutral feed from the panel to the line side of the receptacle. Then you splice the others together as described above and connect your pig tails to the load side. "Line" and "load" should be clearly marked on the GFCI. Your ground in this case is still all spliced together with a pigtail for connection to the GFCI. Line is from the panel. Load is to other receptacles. Getting these reversed will prohibit your GFCI from functioning properly.
Yes. Also on GFCI you can run output to second bathroom outlet and will be protected. Great thanks. That make more since, because there's only four outlets for both plus the lights on a 20a run Is it considered better to run the circuit through one GFCI outlet or is that to cut cost. I don't mind buying four GFCI outlets and adding the extra pig tail wires, specially if it might work better
No, except that you insert the wires into the holes on the back of the outlet. The power in connects to the LINE side of the outlet and power out connects to the LOAD side of the outlet. This is clearly marked on the back of the outlet. This will not only protect the outlet with the GFCI installed but all outlets receiving their power from that GFCI. If you do not want to protect the outlets receiving power from the outlet then connect that outgoing wire to the LINE side also. But know that only the outlet with the GFCI will be protected and all other outlets will not be GFCI protected.
To reset a GFCI you need to first correct any ground faults in the circuit - or some other other fault in the equipment and/or its flexible cord and/or its plug - being protected by the GFCI, which is causing an imbalance in the currents flowing in the hot and neutral wires. Ground faults are usually caused by wet electrical equipment. Then you need to press the RESET button on the GFCI.
GFCI Breakers are quite a bit more expensive than a GFCI outlet. More often than not a typical residence will need only a handful of GFCI outlets that combined together will be cheaper than a GFCI breaker. If you need to protect a series of outlets with GFCI protection you can simply connect the rest of the outlets on that same circuit downstream from the first outlet on the line and make that the GFCI. All you have to do is connect all the other outlets to the LOAD side of the GFCI outlet. If a GFCI fault occurs in any of the outlets down stream they will trip that very first GFCI plug you placed and keep you safe.
Inside the GFCI is an electrical device that constantly compares the current on the two wires of an electrical circuit. If, at any time, the electrical device detects an imbalance, the GFCI shuts off the circuit. Most electrical shocks occur when a person touches the LIVE wire of a circuit while grounded in some other way (such as standing barefooted on concrete). The GFCI detects that imbalance and shuts off the circuit so quickly that we often don't even feel the shock. As a word of caution, don't depend on the GFCI as a substitute for common sense. If you aren't touching some kind of grounded surface, the GFCI will not function. In that situation you are nothing more than another resistance load. Also, if you feel that the GFCI will protect you and ignore normal caution around electricity, you may encounter a circuit that is either NOT protected with a GFCI, or you may encounter a GFCI that has failed. Either way, always use caution when doing anything with electricity.
Your question is a bit vague, but let's try a two part answer. If you have a GFCI breaker in an electric panel you should only have one connection at the breaker, but the breaker will protect all devices on the circuit. If you are talking about a GFCI outlet, they are equipped to extend the GFCI protection to other non-GFCI outlets by using the proper "output" connection on the GFCI.
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