Here's what I had to do:
1) I checked all fuses having to do with heating and cooling. There is one or two in the engine compartment, and #58 under the instrument panel. All were good.
2) Because the AC light, and the blower were both not working, but the recirculating air and rear defrost functions were working, and I was getting hot air through the ducts (just not forced), everything pointed me to the blower switch on the control panel.
3) To see it / change it, I had to do the following...
A) Buy a radio "DIN" removal tool at the local Pep Boys / Autozone type store. It was $5.99. This tool is two, U shaped pieces of steel. You slide each one into a side of the radio where the small square holes are. When they seat all the way in, pull each one away from the radio and slide the radio forward. It comes right out far enough that you can then unhook the antenna, and (I had) three plastic connectors.
B) With a 9/32" nut driver, or straight handle socket, remove the four sheet metal screws which were hidden by the radio frame. No big deal.
C) Pull outward on the "bezel" -- the decorative frame which holds the ashtray, lighter, AC, and hazard light. Just when you think you're pulling too hard, it will pop off of the plastic pieces which hold it down. The same type of plastic bits that hold on some door panels if you've ever had to deal with a window or lock repair.
D) I had to unhook the lighter and pull the ashtray out to get enough clearance and get at the one Phillips screw holding the blower switch in place. Pull the knob off the front of the panel, take out the screw, twist the back of the switch about 20 degrees and it will fall out in your hand. Unclip the wiring and you're ready to put in the new one.
4) The Motorcraft replacement part ran about $13.50 at the corner dealership, and it was in stock.
Gary's answer above is exactly right and saved me lots of time and money. I would advise doing what Gary suggests first. My addition is: When you buy the switch shop around the dealerships til you find the right price. Ford dealer #1 quoted 58.00 for the switch. Ford dealer #2 quoted 45.00 and Lincoln Mercury dealer #3 quoted 13.58. Same Motorcraft part #.
Secondly: If it turns out you have to take out the glove box to check the blower motor you might as well check/replace the resistor at the same time. Cost is about 17.00 and they do fail. It is located to the left of the blower housing on the firewall.
And thanks Gary, great answer on the switch.
I have a follow up for this. I had the same problem in a 2002 Ford Focus, which is the same thing, where the blower motor only worked with the switch all the way up at number four AND the A/C only ran on settings 1-3. This seemed to be a blower motor switch to me, too, but when I replaced it I continued to have the exact same problem. Any suggestions? Thanks
If the fan only works on #4 and not at all on #1 #2 or #3 then you need to replace the resistor behind the glove box. If the fan works on ANY of #1,#2, or #3 then your switch in the dash is bad. When the resistor goes, it always begins by #1 then #2 then #3 all going out in sequesnce or they all stop working at the same time. $ still works because it uses the least amount of resistance. The resistor itself uses heat as the resistor so the more resistance it has the hotter it gets. That is why #1 usually goes first.
To get it off you need to remove the golve box. Once you pull out the glove box (held by 3 screws) you will see the big black housing for the blower motor. If you look to the right of the motor housing you will see a plastic plate that appears to be 1.5 inches wide and 2 to 3 inches tall, It is white on my 2000 Focus SE. One Phillips screw on the bottom edge holds it in. Take out the screw, pull out the resistor and disconnect the wiring plug on it. Take it in to your local parts shop and ask for another blower fan resistor like the one you have and give them the make model and year of your car. Once you have the new one you can install it by doing the exact reverse of how you got it out.
On my 2000 focus my blower only worked at high speed. I did some research and found the resistor pack is almost always at fault. Mine was located behind the glove box and is mounted to the firewall at the extreme left. It was white about 2" by 3" with 4 wires going to it. I used a Phillips screwdriver and removed the one screw and inspected it with an ohm meter and found that the small thermal fuse was bad. It is about 1/4" in diameter and 1/2" long and bullet shaped. I took some 16 ga. stranded wire, doubled it and shorted the thermal fuse out and soldered it. Now my blower works perfect. The t-fuse could be replaced but I didn't have a good spare. Besides it was spot welded on and to do it right it must be spot welded. These things are the reason a lot of home appliances go bad, heaters toasters etc. You can replace them and the appliances will work perfectly.
If you are saying the blower motor will not work, then check the fuse. If the fuse is not blown, then it is possibly a defective Blower Motor Resistor Pack, blower motor, or blower motor speed control switch, in that order.If you are saying the blower motor will not work, then check the fuse. If the fuse is not blown, then it is possibly a defective Blower Motor Resistor Pack, blower motor, or blower motor speed control switch, in that order.
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