most toilets are set for a 12" inch rough in, that means before sheet rock and against a wood framed wall you would set your toilet flange 12 inches to the center of the flange to the edge of the wall and if you have something in your way like a floor joist or other you can buy a 10" rough in toilet or you can use a offset toilet flange which will offset your drain pipe from your flange to about 2 inches any direction and if you are setting a flange before a concrete floor I would measure 12.5 inches just to be safe from concrete workers etc hitting your pipes.
The rough for a toilet can be 10" - 12" and 14"Depending on the type of toilet installed .. for example a wall hung tank normally would be a 14" rough becvause of the 2" slip ell supply from the Douglas vavle
Certain Flushometer top spud require less then a back inlet bowl for finish
12 inches standard, 10 & 14 works, need to specify 10,12, or 14 when buying toilet.
The toilet flange is installed 12" from the FINISHED wall surface to the center of the flange, and 16" (residential), or 18" from the finished wall to center of the flange in commercial,or wheelchair accessible applications.
Center of the hole to the back wall behind the tank. Should be 12 inches.
The 2003 International Plumbing Code calls for a minimum of 15" clearance from the center of the water closet (toilet) to the nearest side wall or other fixture and 21" clearance from the front of the bowl to the closest wall or fixture.
12 inches from the center of the drain to the back wall behind the tank. Some toilets are 10" rough in. Also should be 18" from side wall to center of toilet if possible.
yes using a fitting called a double santee or double y or double combo or a cross , when snaking out a toilet drain from a toilet flange and you have back to back toilets be careful not to run your snake into the other toilet.
Mine doesnt but in cases where it does rock it can be 1- Loose floor flange 2- floor flange bolts not tightned enough 3- Floor not level
Installing a new toilet flange is a fairly simple process that should take no more than 15 to 20 minutes. A properly installed toilet flange will ensure years of dependable use. If the old flange needs to be removed, this will increase the installation time. These instructions assume you are starting with a waste pipe that does not have a toilet flanged installed. If the old toilet flange is still installed on the waste pipe, begin by removing it, then following these procedures.The following items are needed to complete this procedure:New toilet flangeAdjustable wrenchScrewdriver (Phillips or straight head)Hacksaw (if modification to waste pipe is needed)Purple primer and solvent cement (if PVC flange is installed)New wax seal or waxless toilet sealPlace the new flange on the waste pipe and ensure the pipe height is proper for the flange to be affixed to the subfloor. If modifications need to be made to the waste pipe, use a hacksaw to cut the pipe to the proper height.Ensure the new flange is sitting level to the floor. The flange must sit level and flush to the floor for the toilet to properly seal to the new flange.Install the new flange on the waste pipe with the bolts positioned so they will fit into the toilet mounts. If a PVC flange is used, apply purple primer to the outside of the waste pipe and solvent cement to the inside of the flange, then press the flange firmly on the waste pipe. Be aware, once these item are attach using primer and solvent, they cannot be removed or adjusted. Be sure the flange is positioned and inserted properly on the waste pipe.Secure the new flange to the subfloor by screwing the flange directly into the floor.Apply the new wax seal to the flange or affix a new waxless toilet seal directly to the underside of the toilet.A waxless seal is commonly overlooked by consumers. Ask your retailer about a waxless seal. Waxless seals are cleaner to install and uninstall and can be reused even if the toilet is removed later.Mount the toilet back onto the new flange and secure it using a washer and nut on the flange bolts. Tighten each bolt with an adjustable wrench. Be very careful not to over tighten the bolts. If the bolts are over tightened, the porcelain toilet will crack.Your new toilet flange is installed and ready to use.
I don't believe so. That is the old style with the tank mounted on the wall and a tube to the base. There is a floor flange with an offset in it that will move it back a couple of inches, but any more and you will need to change the drain or possibly build up the wall behind the toilet if it happens to be in a cut out.
On a standard toilet in America the drain is 12 inches from the back wall to the center of the drain.
12" on center from the back wall, 18" from the wall on the side(s).
Yes, you can run it perpendicular as long as the sanitary tee is not more than six feet away from the closet flange.
Push the nosecup back over the flange