I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 92 WRANGLER.. GO TO AUTOZONE.COM AND CLICK ON SERVICE MANUALS, THEY WILL EXPLAIN HOW TO BLEED THE SLAVE CYLINDER.. AND IT WORKS.. DON DRC@EPIX.NET
Right above the slave cylinder there is a bleeder screw. Just unsrew it and have someone hold in the clutch to start the bleed.
shhould be da same way u bleed your break system... bleed valve on clutch master cylinder...
Bench bleed it to avoid introducing air into the system.
You do not need to bleed hydraulic systems on tractors.
Bleed system and then see if pumping clutch is necessary for proper operation. Keep in mind that there is a master cylinder and slave cylinder.
It should bleed its self when turning lock to lock while engine is running.
FIRSY FILL THE CLUTCH FLUID RESEVOIR AND THEN BLEED BY LOOSENING THE BLEEDER NIPPLE ATTACHED TO THE SLAVE CYLINDER.
Doesn't have a bleeder valve on the master. You have to bleed the brake system at the wheels.
the easiest thing to do is remove the slave cylinder then pump the pedal and the fluid will pour out
you bleed it just like you would blled your brakes 2 people one pumps then hold clutch the other opens bleed screw on slave cylinder till you get stream of fluid no air about 2 times then refill master cylinder but there is no bleeder screw on clutch
This works for any hydraulic system, clutch or brakes. On the slave cylinder is the bleeder screw. Use a piece of tubing that just fits over the screw and put the other end in a container with about an inch of brake fluid in it. With the screw loosened and the clutch master cylinder full slowly pump the brake. One or two complete fillings of the master cylinder should be enough to bleed the system. Make sure the master doesn't run out of fluid in the process. Tighten the bleeder screw and you should be done.
The clutch can't be adjusted. It is an hydraulic clutch. The clutch pedal sends pressure from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder on the clutch. IF you are having trouble with it the thing to do is bleed the air out at the slave cylinder. Have an assistant pump the clutch and hold it to the floor. Then open the bleed valve on the slave cylinder to let the air out of the system. On the final bleed hold the clutch to the floor and close the bleed valve on the slave cylinder. The clutch master cylinder operates of the brake fluid reservoir. Make sure you keep this full of brake fluid as you bleed the clutch.
If it is a drum brake system, then you will have to remove the wheel ,drum, brake shoes, and hydraulic brake line , then remove and replace the cylinder with a new one re-assemble and bleed the hydraulic brake system
Did you bleed the air out of the hydraulic system after changing the wheel cylinder? If not, you must do so.
To bleed the hydraulic system for the clutch slave cylinder, there is a fitting on the drivers side of the transmission
There are two normal causes. The clutch is worn out or there is a leak in the hydraulic clutch slave or master cylinder. To check the clutch, press the clutch slave cylinder down. If the clutch slave cylinder bellows compresses down to the slave cylinder, the clutch is worn out. Check the clutch master cylinder fluid level. if this is low, then the clutch cylinder need to be checked. To check for a hydraulic leak in the clutch slave cylinder, remove the cylinder's bellows and check for any fluid. If fluid is present, rebuild or replace the cylinder and bleed the system. To check the clutch master cylinder, check the back the of clutch master cylinder for leaks. If fluid is present, replace or rebuild clutch master cylinder and bleed the system. In my experience, hydraulic leaks occur at the clutch slave cylinder.
Anytime you open the hydraulic system of the brakes you have introduced air into the system and you need to bleed the system when you are done. If you keep the brake fluid reservoir full while you make repairs it will be easier for you to bleed the system.
You do not reset a master cylinder. You should bench bleed it before installing.
The answer from Y-THINK-Y is incorrect. The 97 TJ clutch master to slave cylinders are not a conventional brake type hydraulic system. The conventional bleeding process does not work. Does anyone know how the system is purged and bled? Do I need a special pump sysytem of some sort? Basically in the same fashion that you would bleed brakes. Search the FAQ answers for the "how" to bleed brakes. Y-THINK-Y
Yes, replacing the booster is fairly easy. Just remember to bleed the brakes if you have to remove a brake hydraulic line. Bleed in this sequence. RR-LR-RF-LF
Hyd clutch has no adjustment, pump clutch pedal hold down bleed off hydraulic slave cylinder on driver side of trans. If won't bleed replace if bleeds off no air in line & still not better ck bushings on clutch pedal under dash. Hope this helps
Remove hydraulic fluid line from slave cylinder (you may need to use a flared end wrench). Make sure master cylinder does not go dry!!! Unbolt slave cyliner from tranny, bolt new part on. Install hydraulic fluid line. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Properly bleed system. Now your finished!
The basic principle of bleeding a master cylinder is, "get all the air out of the system". A master cylinder is nothing more than a hydraulic pump. When you press on the pedal, the hydraulic oil in the pump is pressurized, and the piston at the opposite end moves. Any air bubbles in the hydraulic oil will compress, making the pedal feel "soft", and you will not have adequate control of the hydraulic system, whether it's the brakes or the clutch. So here's the principle: When you press on the pedal, the oil moves FROM the master cylinder, through the hydraulic lines to the clutch slave cylinder or the brake wheel cylinders. Any air in the lines moves along with the fluid. If you open a wheel cylinder (or clutch slave cylinder) bleed valve when the master cylinder pedal is pressed, hydraulic fluid will be released, and possibly any air bubbles that may be in the line. If you close the bleed valve before air can get back in, you MAY be able to get all of the air bubbles out of the line. In reality, you typically need to do that several times for each wheel before you can get all of the air out, and you may need to repeat the procedure a few times for the clutch slave cylinder before it will work properly. If you're bleeding the line properly, keeping the master cylinder full of fluid and you STILL can't get rid of all the air in the lines, it's possible that you have a leaky master cylinder or slave cylinder. Sometimes they suck air when they're going bad. Good luck. Hope this helped.