The plaster in the bottom is the thickest and is trolled to be straight. The plasterer is not going to use a transit to see if it is level, it's just going to be what it is. After working a year and seeing the construction of about 160 pools, I've never had a customer call back because the bottom of the pool was not level. I think it is a non-issue. The location of the main drains should be in the deepest part.
A gunite pool shell IS waterproof before plastering. First, gunite/shotcrete is not water proof. The reason for the plaster is to make the pool water proof. You don't have to and should not water proof gunite because it will affect the bonding properties for the plaster. Contrary to the previous answer, Gunite is in fact "waterProof" when correctly applied. Unless there are improperly prep'd cold-joints (the point at which one application has stopped for some reason -perhaps rain, slow truck turnaround, etc- and begun at a later time), a Gunite pool could virtually be "painted", providing a high steel-trowel finish was applied to the Gunite. But, Gunite pops (begins to set and cure) faster than typically appied Marblite or Diamond Bright type cementitious finishes. Actually, the Gunite "finish" surface is purposely left fairly rouch, providing a better surface to which the finish/color material may bond.
I general, the answer is yes. It the crack comes from the pool moving, and the gunite has cracked, then the gunite has to be repaired before the plaster. Sometimes opening up the gunite crack and refilling with concrete will answer the problem. If movement of the soil is the problem then that has to be fixed first.The soil getting excessivly wet and dry can mean that the pool will move, if it is only part of the pool then there will be a structuaral crack. Only opening up the crack will tell you whether it is a plaster crack or a gunite crack. A replaster is from about $2000 up and structuaral repairs from about $1000
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