This is usually a very messy job, as the filter lives inside the transmission just inside the bottom pan.
Most sources usually have you loosen all of the pan bolts in a way that the pan tilts to one end. This is to remove the fluid. Next, remove the pan completely, clean out the pan, remove any remains of the gasket and clean the transmission mating surface. The filter usually just pulls off it's mounting point and the new one goes in the same way, only reversed. Be sure that the seal came out with the filter. If not, dig it out and discard. Use the new one that comes with the new filter.
Now, replace the gasket and begin to put the pan back on. Once you get all the bolts in, you can begin tightening them by moving around the pan, tightening each bolt a little until you reach the proper torque spec. (this is apparently related to the bolt size, according to the Haynes manual) Once this is done, you'll have to add about 3 1/2 quarts of ATF. From here, you REALLY need a shop manual. Dependent on which engine and transmission you have, the final fluid level check varies quite a bit. However, if your car has a transmission dipstick like my '96, it's realatively direct to check the fluid.
The very best way I know to do this job is to have someone else do it. Look around for local shops offering specials.
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