I replaced the heater core on my 1985 300zx a few years ago. It was a nightmarish job. It is located centrally behind the center console. The actual heater core is located in a housing and only takes a half of an hour to remove and install in the housing. But to get to the housing is a long task which involve removing everything in the way to get to it. I had to loosen steering column and loosen the entire DASHBOARD assembly to the point that it could be lifted high enough to remove the housing. There was a great number of bolts that had to be removed which required me to ly flat on my back and work upside down in the drivers seat. I am not a big guy and it was an awkward task. It took me 6 to 8 hours to remove everything because I was working in tight quarters. I t went back together more easier because i had an idea where everything went and a tagged my parts so that I new which bolt went where. It probably a 700 to 900 dollar job at a good mechanic. I dont think I would attempt again.
If you have a heater core leak you need to R & R it (remove replace) this means removing the whole dash. The heater core is only like $20-$40 but labor will bring it out to be close to $200 -$300, so i recommend doing it yourself if you want to save money. The core is behind the dash on the passenger side in all blazer models.
I replaced my heater core in 1991 for my ford F100 I6 300. If I remember correctly , it was a tiresome job because you have to remove the black plastic housing under the hood; which has a lot of small nuts. If my memory serves me, the heater core is under the hood, inside the black plastic compartment. The core is immediately under the place where your heater core hoses route to the firewall. You should have an easy time finding it. good luck
The heater core is located behind/around the center of the of the firewall . It is around $300 to replace at a shop and not recommended to do on your own unless u have proper equipment and know how. You will know if your heater core is damaged when u pour coolant in and it drains out of a rubber elbow around the left central area of the firewall. DONT NOT DRIVE WITH BROKEN HEATER CORE. You risk severly damanging your engine.
it's not that hard you just need to have pictures to guide you through it. i did my wife's heater core in 87 t-bird. Take the entire console out of the car to facilitate removal of nearly all of the dash Most of the dash will have to come apart to change heater core Also the air ducts air box as affected Better just to bypass the bad core under the hood to return the hot water back to the engine and just leave the bad heater core alone Use a shop vac to suck remaining water from the bad heater core At a shop the change of the heater core costs from 300 to 400 dollars because of all of the labor
Your heater core is leaking. The only fix is to replace it. This can at times be a very difficult job. It is easy to remove and replace, but most of the time very hard to gain access to the core. For this reason, you will find that this repair can be fairly expensive, so don't be surprised at what they charge. I also recommend you have them do a complete cooling system service at the same time. Drain, flush, replace the thermostat, heater core, and add the proper amount of coolant. As the car is 12 years old, I would also replace the heater hoses, if they have never been replaced.
There is a small black hose sticking out from the passengers fire wall and has been leaking out water over the last couple of days from having the heater on inside the car. The hose is under the passenger side part of the car up by the fire wall or heater core area. Is this normal for this car? Is it a cool off or overflow hose?
Replacing the heater core on Tempos and Topazes from 1990 to 1994 is not an easy project.But because it is not easy, that is not to say it can't be done by the home diy mechanic. A shop rate of $80.00/ hr at 2-3 hours might entice one to take a stab at it. The heater core runs about 40-70 $$$ pending your buying power ( wholesale/ retail). The heater core is located under the dash- dead center- and above the "hump". When looking- you will see a black plastic molded shroud that looks like it is bolted to the underside of the dash panel. It has a contour design to it, sort of half rounded. It is indeed bolted to something- but not the dash. Rather it is bolted to the heater assembly cowling. The heater core is behind this contoured rounded shroud. The shroud is held in place by 4 - 6 screws. Two of which are hidden from your view. These are on the back side between the inside of the firewall and the front of the shroud. Get a mirror and a small flashlight. Place the mirror in a position that shows you a view of the screw heads. They are either Phillips or 1/8 - 1/4 hex. They are located close to the corners of the shroud. Put the mirror under the shroud and point the flashlight up. You will see the screws in the mirror. I used a 1/4 ratchet with an extension to get up in there. Once you get all the screws out, the shroud will still not want to come out. But it will with a little prying persuasion. The halves are sealed for efficiency. Once you get the bottom shroud off, the heater core will be exposed, and if it was leaking, the shroud will have antifreeze in it. Now, before you remove the heater core, go to the front of the car and drain the antifreeze from the radiator. Assuming you know how. Some will say to remove the plug on the back of the engine block as well. That is up to you I don't. Rather, when it comes time to separate the heater hoses from the core, have 2 plugs handy to stuff the hoses with and stop the antifreeze loss. Now stand on the right side of the front and look in behind the engine between it and the firewall. Looking down you will see a 3/4-1" hose clamped to something coming from the firewall. That's the top port of the heater core. There is another hose connected directly underneath that one, that is the bottom port of the heater core. Remove both of these and go back inside the car and pull the heater core out. If the core won't move, get a piece of 2 x 4 and pry on the outlets of the core, they have been in there a long time and need push sometimes. Take note of your replacement core, if its brass or aluminum. Follow installation instructions as per your type of core. Installation from this point is just a reversal of what you have done to remove the core. Some will say you must remove the dash, this to me is more headache than needed. If you don't think you can do this, even with the aid of a Haynes or Clymer manual, you are looking at perhaps $300 or better to have a shop do it for you. As I said at the start, its not an easy project, but, it can be done. After all, a human installed it in the first place.
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