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How to remove the alternator from a 1996 Kia Sephia?


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2008-01-28 04:12:49
2008-01-28 04:12:49

Remove alternator from 1996 Kia Sephia RS 1.8 ltr: With the information that I received from WikiAnswers, I decided that I would remove/replace the alternator myself. For me it was a matter of necessity, since I could not afford to go to a mechanic and pay his much deserved labor costs. One contributor mentioned that removing the exhaust manifold could better afford the removal of the alternator. However, since I did not have a spring supported tension tool (not sure what it is called), I would never be able to put the exhaust sections together again. Someone else suggested removing motor mounts and lift the engine block just enough for clearance. Both of these suggestions, of course, are very good, and will work.

However I would have to do the job myself, and did not have the proper tools to achieve either one of these procedures. I was able to remove/replace the alternator in the following manner. I had two ramps that my brother-in-law had given to me years back. They are about 14 inches high at the summit. I noticed that the lower half of the car bumper was not going to clear the sharp inclined, so I had to place a wood plank on each ramp in order to clear the bumper on the way up (and also down).

Once I had the two front wheels on the ramps summit, I could easily see underneath the car. First, I removed the tension bolts on top of the alternator and put them where I could find them later. Then I went under the car. I removed the wire by removing a nut, which can be exposed by removing a black colored plastic covering. It snaps open. Looking up at it from under the car, mine snapped opened from left to right, but it might vary, so make sure you have plenty of light to see. After you remove the nut, you can remove (pull out) the wire connector the nut is holding in place. Then I removed the remaining snap (fuse-like rectangular plastic, which you can pull out by applying pressure to the left of the receptable with your thumb, and to the right with your index finger. Once you have done this, the only thing left is the bolt which holds the alternator to the engine block. When you loosen it and start to pull it out, you will become aware of a loop which the bolt will pass thru. I could not see it, but felt it as I pulled the bolt to remove it. It passes right thru the middle of this loop, and can be pulled out completely. Since the alternator has been bolted in this position for some time, it tends to stick. I had to juggle it loose. As you juggle it loose remove the belt from its pulley. Once you have done all of this, let it rest on the surroundings around it since it will not simply come out. Be careful to clear away all wire connections that you undid from the alternator(one wire, with another wire leading out from it). Also, be careful with the wires on top of the alternator, which are not connected to it, however tend to get hooked up to the alternator when trying to removed it. This is where your patience comes in. The alternator should now be resting in an area, just above the axle, the exhaust manifold, and a copper pipe (gasoline line, I think). I found it necessary to wedge the copper pipe to the side which will make the space a tiny bit larger. Use a rubber ball or ball of rags as the wedge, nothing hard. Using the ramp method (this method) you need all the space available since you will not be removing the exhaust manifold, or removing the motor mounts for clearance. Be sure not to let it get stuck to the surroundings (tubing, axle, or exhaust manifold while trying to remove it. After about 45 minutes of angling it this way and that, I found the right combination and out it came. Suggestions: If you have an old pillow around, place it under your head, it feels so good during your rest periods, and also gives you a better view since you have to raise your head anyway. Save your energy because you will need it for the task at hand. Replacing the alternator: After you have crossed the obstacle course back into the area where the alternator will be bolted to, put the belt in the alternator pulley before you replace the bolt which will hold the alternator to the engine block. I suggest that you free the band (belt) on top pulley (on top of engine block) to one side, as it will be plenty hard to match up the holes on the alternator to the holes on the engine block. If you do not, the belt will tend to keep it from aligning right. Be sure that you reconnect the wire and carefully tighten the nut, and re-insert the plastic fuse-like receptacle while still under the car. After aligning the holes, run the bolt thru, but do not tighten it all the way yet. I tightened it after I replace top of belt, and adjusted the tension bolts back in their place. Again all these are just suggestions. It took me longer to replace the alternator, then to remove it. Good luck.

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