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Answered 2007-01-06 14:34:40

First off, you would have 2 totally different feeling problems. If it is the slave cyl., and expand that to anything with the clutch hydraulics from which you would then need to determine which component, master, lines, slave etc., the failure normally happens very quickly and results in there being no resisitance on the clutch pedal when pressed and can be seen by no movement at the fork that presses against the clutch/pressure plate. If that is true, start looking for hydro oil leaks and you will probably find the suspect component. (The fluid is probably low too). Somethings fail without a leak. Testing for pressure, as the clutch is depressed, at the line coming into the slave, can show if it is the master or the slave. (Pressure at the slave, from the master indicates a good master, and pressure getting to the slave but no motion after it indicates bad slave). Replacing the master or slave, or a broken/pinched line is fairly straight forward. Like anything on the Hydo system, you need to be very clean, and bleed the entire system after. (Rebuild kits for the cylinders are frequently avail at great savings to getting a new unit, and depending on the unit, not to hard to do). A clutch goes bad over a period of time. Generally, it doesn't fail completely, until late in the game anyway. You should have noticed difficulty in getting into gears, possibly some sounds developng over time. If you have found that even when in gear and you give gas to accelerate that the engine starts reving, or that going up hill you need seem to be not getting the power to the wheels, that is a good sign of a bad clutch. Replacing a clutch, which should always include the clutch /pressure plate /throw out bearing at the least, is a many step procedure, and depends on the vehicle, can even entail lifting the motor. It is a rather physical job too and almost always requires some alignment tools made for the task.

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