In most cases either will work. but you know how you are building your engine so you should know better then I do whats best. NO!!! if you have the serial # of the cam get ahold of comp cams and they can tell you if it is a roller or flat tappit cam they are totaly diffrent cams and WILL NOT INTERCHANGE LIFTERS
That would be a hydraulic roller tappet valve train.
No to the roller lifters in the 2.8 Ford V6. The 2.8 as well as the 2.9 has regular flat tappet lifters and regular rocker arms.
typically no it should be hydraulic lifters unless someone has changed the cam and lifters in the engine.
hydraulic-type lifters do not have tappet clearance. follow manufacturer's recommendation for lifter preload.
low oil pressure or the seal on the roller tappet is old and it takes the roller tappet a minute to pressurize again.
You do not want to change from a roller camshaft to a hydraulic flat tappet cam! that would be adding friction to you engine(bad plan). you can go from a flat tappet to a roller cam but no one offers a kit to erase technology, or subtract horsepower.
99.9 % of all Chevy small blocks and big blocks came factory with HYDRAULIC flat tappet lifters. Starting in late 1995 Chevy went to a HYDRAULIC roller lifter. Actually, the small blocks started coming through with roller cams with the introduction of the raised-rail heads around 86 or 87. Pretty sure the big blocks went roller when they switched to the non-adjustable valvetrain around late 80's, early 90's.
The Opel Corsa Utility 1.4 2008 Model does not have Tappets but Hydraulic Lifters.
Officially you should change lifters anytime you change the cam. In real world use; unless the roller lifters have obvious, visual damage, missing pins, wear on surface of the roller, then it is not normally going to be a problem. In the case of flat lifters, you should change them. The cam of flat tappet (regular) lifters, have a slight bevel to the surface of the cam. When the cam and lifter are in operation - this causes the lifters to rotate in their bore. After/during break-in, there is some wear on both surfaces and they end up with a pattern which is unique for each bore and and each cam/lifter combination. If you change either the order of the lifters on the original cam they meshed with, or install a new cam or new lifters - there is a very real chance of accelerated wear leading to failure of cam and lifter. What is worse - the resulting debris can follow the oil and ruin bearing surfaces throughout the engine. Your money, your choice.
wrong viscosity oil, bad oil pump, bad hydraulic lifters,or loose tappet rockers
Pretty simple....buy a retro fit cam and lifter kit. Any performance parts store sells them.
You will hear a clear tikking noise, and the engine will use more oil than normal.And somethimes you will only hear it when you let of the gas pedal