if your gears are sequential like in the old colomn shift cars you may actually have to manually line them up again.
The left hand side handlebar lever is the clutch.
there is no clutch cable. it has a hydraulic clutch. there will be a clutch master cylinder on the firewall near the brake M/C. a hydraulic hose will connect that to the clutch slave cylinder on or near the tranny. the slave cylinder pushes on a fork (lever) that disengages the clutch.
check oil level in your hydraulic clutch if you have a hydraulic clutch. If not and it is a cable clutch check and make sure your clutch is adjusted properly. It may not be disengaging when you pull the clutch lever.
on the clutch pedal lever
The cable, lever and actuator linkage need servicing.
Remove the bolt in the lever perch. For a clutch lever, loosen the cable enough to remove the broken lever and replace the new one. Adjust the clutch cable back and replace the bolt in perch. For the brake (disc brake)) lever, you simply remove the bolt and replace lever, put the bolt back in the perch and you're done. If you have drum brakes, it is the same as the clutch lever routine.
The term "pull in the clutch" means squeeze the clutch lever to the handle bar to disengage the clutch. Hope this helps.
For the brake it's pretty obvious. You don't want the brake to stay on when you aren't braking, so you need the spring to push it back. For the clutch it's the same but in reverse. You want the clutch to stay on, except for when you're depressing the lever. The spring keeps the clutch on, until you use the lever to overcome the spring. Then when you release the lever the spring kicks in again, engaging the clutch.
Shut the throttle. Pull in your clutch. Kick the gear lever down. Let out the clutch. More advanced: Shut the throttle. Pull in your clutch. Kick the gear lever down. Blip the throttle - let out the clutch.
hold the clutch lever in, rev the bike a little bit, then slowly release the lever until you start to move a little bit. when you want to shift, either mash the gears or i guess you could pull the clutch lever , shift into another gear, then release slowly.
hold the clutch lever in, rev the bike a little bit, then slowly release the lever until you start to move a little bit. when you want to shift, either mash the gears or i guess you could pull the clutch lever , shift into another gear, then release slowly.
I have the same problem with a 91 Mazda 323 1600. After putting a new clutch in, the pedal had to go to the floor to engage the clutch. Sometimes the pedal sticks on the floor, but the car keeps going forward. The problem is the throw-out lever at the clutch. This is the lever sticking out of the gearbox/clutch housing on the engine. This throwout lever requires a pre-setting or pre-loading if you like, so that the lever movement caused by the slave cylinder pushes and disengages the clutch by continuing the preload pressure. This fault is caused by not making a note of the preload adjustment on the throw-out lever when fitting a new clutch.You should be able to take the end housing off the engine, although you may have to undo the engine mounting on that side and jack the engine up slightly. Then peek inside, find the adjustment mechanism and adjust as necessary. A clue that this is the problem, will be if you can grab the clutch lever where it meets the slave cylinder and wiggle it up and down. In short, setting the preload on the throw-out lever will fix this problem.
The Suzuki Intruder has a hydraulic clutch and therefor there is no adjustment.... There is an adjustment on the clutch lever for the distance from the grip, that is all...
May be clutch cable sticking, clutch lever on the gearbox sticking or the actual friction plate in the clutch sticking on the shaft. the latter would probably mean taking the gearbox out to check. The clutch lever on box is easily oiled but usually the return from a clutch is great enough to pull it back but check anyway.
There is no adjustment on a hydraulic clutch. They engage at the very end of the lever release.
I think you are asking about excessive clutch lever travel. The clutch lever should have about 3mm of free play between the lever and the yoke. The bite should be between half an 2/3rds of outward travel. On a cable clutch you can normally adjust out the slack to produce the above result. If not or there is excessive travel on a hydraulic clutch you are looking at clutch springs or excessive plate wear.
Slack in the clutch release or clutch basket. It might adjust out.
If the vehicle is the same as the Japanes models the car has a cable operated clutch which is adjusted at the clutch lever. Simply undo the locknun and turn the knurled knob clockwise until there is about 4 mm play on the actuating lever.
Cable clutch - when you depress the clutch lever or pedal, you pull at a Cable whose other end is attached to the fork that operates the pressure plate in the clutch assembly. Hydraulic clutch - when you depress the clutch lever or pedal, you push at a piston in a Master cylinder. Pushing at the piston pressurizes the hydraulic fluid in the master cylinder, and in the hose leading to a Slave cylinder placed at the clutch. The piston in the slave cylinder extends and operates the pressure plate in the clutch assembly.
If it is like my 1300, there is a rubber boot where the clutch cable meets the clutch lever at your handlebar. Pull it away from the lever and under will be a screw/washer looking thing. Turn it so that it begins to move away from the lever (thus pulling the cable tighter) or the opposite to make it looser. If the clutch lets out to early (catches while the lever is too close to the grip), make it move away from the lever. If it releases to high (too far away from the grip) than make the screw go into the lever. Once done replace the rubber boot and put some miles on your bike!
The 97 Tiburon doesnt have a clutch cable. It is hydrolic. Look on the right hand side of the motor directly on top of the transmission and you will see a cylinder about an inch and a half wide and 4 inches wide bolted down with 2 12mm bolts with a rod coming out of it that connects to a lever on the transmission. This is what controls your clutch!
First adjust the knurled adjuster at the lever all the way in then adjust the cable at the lower end until there is 1/2" or so of free play at the lever.
There's several different manufacturers of PTO systems out there. In simple terms, you engage the clutch, engage the PTO, release the clutch, then use the corresponding lever to raise or lower the dump body.
If there is a hydraulic master cylinder at the clutch lever (looks like the front brake) then...NO.
the bonnet lever on a fiat brava is by the clutch pedel and has a red handle this may be the same on the bravo