Could be. Vibration and heat are a batteries worst enemy. Remove the battery and take it to any place that sells batteries. Have it checked. If it is bad, replace the battery, and install a new battery hold down clamp. If it is good, start the car and drive it to any auto parts store and have them check the charging system.
Start by disconnecting the negative battery cable, then loosen the hinge and bracket bolts on the alternator. There should only be one of each. Rotate the alternator around the bracket to release tension on the belt and electrical wires far enough that they can be disconnected. Remove the bracket bolt then the hinge bolt and the alternator should come right out. Installation is the reverse of removal. To tighten the belt back up, be sure the bracket bolt is loose then use a prybar between the alternator body and the engine block to pry the alternator along bracket. When the desired tension is reached, tighten the bracket bolt back down. Boom Done
Find a volt meter, check the battery voltage with the engine stopped, it should be a around 12 V. Now start the engine and the voltage should be around 13.5 V. If the alternator isn't putting out about 13.5 (+/- .5 V) the replacment alternator could be bad or you might have a bad connection somewhere.
bad alternatornot always.if its a bad battery and can't hold a charge the same thing will happen.I had a 99 s-10 that would occasionally die at the pump or even while driving, I had a new defective battery, replaced under warranty, no more problem.I would have the alternator checked out before replacing it if that is the problem. I had my replaced and it wasn't cheap...$630 to be exact. The new alternators run around $200 and most mechanics will change the serpentine belt when they replace the alternator so this MAY be an added expense.If the alt is working properly, you can remove one of the battery cables while the engine is running and it will continue to idle. If it dies then the alt needs to be replaced.
Your alternator is not charging the battery. This could be caused by alot of reasons, such as; 1- the alternator, or built-in voltage regulator is bad. 2 - Your belt that drives the alternator is loose, of glazed. 3 - one of the cables, black(-) or red (+), is loose, or not tight at the battery, or the starter, or alternator. First, with a volt meter. Check battery voltage with engine off, and all accessories off, it should read around 12.5 -13v. Now start engine, and see if voltage output increases - say 14 - 14.5 volts, then put on all accessories with engine running, and should still read around 14v......, , This will tell you the alternator is good.....Tom.
YOU have to remove tire on passenger side of car then remove plastic shroud to gain acsess For a 2.2L (VIN 4) Engine: Removal 1) Turn engine off and disconnect the negative battery cable at the battery. 2) Rotate the tensioner and remove the serpentine belt around the alternator battery pulley. 3) Disconnect the regulator connector and the B+ cable from the rear of the alternator. 4) Remove the mounting bolts, then remove the alternator from the vehicle Installation 1) Place the alternator in its bracket and install the mounting bolts 2) Attach the regulator connector and the B+ cable to the alternator. 3) Rotate the serpentine belt tensioner and sip the belt back over the alternator pulley. 4) Connect the negative battery cable.
Since you replaced the battery and alternator, you must have had a problem before. Did you run a voltmeter on the battery while the engine is running? Should have around 14 volts. If you are getting around 14 volts, you can assume that the lite might be faulty. If you are getting say, 12 to 13 volts, then the alternator might be faulty, yes even sometimes rebuilt ones. Check all the wires to make sure there is good contact, also if you still have the problem, then you might have a broken wire ( somewhere ). Good luck
Check your connection. Make sure they are clean and tight. Especially your ground. Check it at the battery, alternator, motor, and frame. When you replaced that alternator, there was the heavy wire that connects to the bottom of the alternator via a nut. This connection has a rubber boot to protect it from shorting out because there's very little room around it when it's mounted in place. Check that this connection/wire isn't shorting out in that area.
It means u have a problem with Battery or Alternator (relay or brushes inside the alternator) Check the battery and if it's ok, check the alternator. It is possible to change these details inside the alternator in unofficial mercedes-benz service. Official service will charge you around 700 euro for the new alternator. It is happens on w203 after the 100 000 km. Good luck!
The voltage regulator (which is inside the alternator) on 97 rodeo's are controlled via the PCM/ECM (Power Control Module/Engine Control Module). A remanufactured alternator for the 97 Rodeo as well as the 97 Passport (Honda), usually will fhow failure while tested in car. On the bench test, however, the alternator tests normal. Aside of the normal problems to be ruled out, ie; alternator belt tension, check for loose connections within and around the alternator, try an original factory alternator. Is this problem affecting your blower motor?
Yes and no. Yes: The alternator will charge the battery any time the engine is running (even at idle) if the battery's voltage is below the threshold (usually around 12 volts) so that the voltage regulator triggers the alternator to generate power (around 14 volts) until the battery is charged up. No: If there is not enough consumption of power, the battery may be charged enough and the voltage regulator will not trigger power generation.
With great difficulty, you need to jack the car up then remove the drivers side wheel and engine splashguard, remove the alternator belt by undoing the tensioner pulley, then the best way to go forward is to remove the bolts for the alternator then remove the alternator wiring and plug then the bracket that holds the alternator on it is a fiddly job and not one to be taken too lightly, once you remove the bracket you have to wiggle the alternator down the way and remove it from underneath the car, you should have removed the battery neg terminal before starting this job and also the use of axle stands is obligatory hope this is of help all told around 2hrs for a competent mechanic
You should never drive a car around for long after jump starting a dead battery. This puts an enormous strain on the alternator. Alternators are designed to keep a good battery charged, not to charge a dead battery. You can easily burn out a diode in the alternator. Jump start the engine and drive it somewhere and connect a battery charger to the battery and charge it fully.
Probably need an alternator. Check your battery voltage with a multimeter, without the car running it should be around 12.5 volts with engine off. Start the car & check the battery voltage and if the alternator is charging properly it should be 13.5 or better at the battery. If not check the power terminal at the alternator itself and if only battery voltage (12 or so volts, same as battery) is there then the alternator is not charging.
=== === Some types of electrical shorts do cause the battery to discharge. But usually a bad alternator just does not charge the battery. Or does not put a large enough charge back into the battery. This causes the battery to discharge when you start and run the motor. The spark plugs and other things need electricity that would usually come from the alternator is now coming from your battery. If your bad alternator is not recharging the new battery, the battery will soon fail to start or run your vehicle. You need to have your alternator tested. It should be putting out at least 12 volts, usually around 13 to 15 volts.
because it automatically detects that you are stupid and prevents charging. possibly an alternator instead of altinater would also help. Not Nice; Rocky_B - See my entry here for more things you might want to check: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_could_be_wrong_if_the_battery_light_stays_on_and_the_battery_still_runs_down_on_a_1996_windstar_after_installing_a_new_battery_and_alternator
Its telling you that for some reason the battery is not charging. Possible cause are: poor or dirty cable connections at the battery posts, bad cables, bad battery. It is also possible that the brushes in your alternator are bad but, the fact that you are getting a light usually indicates the problem is with the battery or cables. For some reason on a GM alternator when the internal regulator in the alternator fails you don't get a light. The only indication you get is that when you turn on the key the battery light doesn't come on. So it is probably not the alternator. Check for corrosion around the battery cables where they connect to the battery. That is most likely the problem. If you have the type that screw into the side of the battery, they may have just worked loose. Good luck
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