AnswerYour serpentime belt tensioner needs replacement ( spring inside it broken/weak) or your belt worn , Have you changed any components lately ? installed right ( pulley not centre with rest of system ) ( shims )
look at the top of where the serpentine belt is located. there is a pulley (called belt tensioner)with a square nipple sticking out the top of it. find a wrench the size of the nipple(via 3/4 or 7/8 etc..)and push towards the back of the car to loosen belt. now remove belt. now line up new belt following the belt route located under the hood. push the tensioner pulley back and pull belt on top pulley, making sure belt is still on all of the other pulleys hint: sometimes you have to take out the inner fender of the front right tire out and put a clamp on the belt and main pulley to hold it in place before you continue installing the rest of the belt.
There is a tensioner pulley located at the top of belt.between alternator and power steering pump. find hex sided bolt on pulley itself(not the one attached to engine)Place 18mm box wrench (or one that fits)on this bolt. box end side is better but may sit on slight angle.Turn wrench in counter clockwise direction.You will see belt start to loosen.remove belt slowly off alternator pulley.Caution release tensioner very very slowly as it has to go further down into a rest position from where you originally started with the belt on.Failing to take this into account can damage the tensioner pulley itself. To install follow belt diagram on vehicle and reverse above
I haven't done that particular model but all the rest have pretty much been the same. It should have a tensioner with a pulley on it bolted to the engine. The tensioner will have a square hole in it for a ratchet or breakover bar to fit in it. Some are 1/2" and some are 3/8". When you place the ratchet in the square hole and pull it, it will collapse the spring letting the tension release from the belt. Slip the belt off the pulley and ease the ratchet off.
The 1999 Mitsubishi Galant features a 2.4-liter engine. This engine is an interference engine as determined by the manufacturer. This means that should the timing belt break or stretch past the limit of the tensioner, the valves will most likely hit the pistons, causing extreme engine damage. It takes four to five hours to change the timing belt and requires a special tensioner pulley wrench, which is available at a Mitsubishi dealer. 1. Step 1 Disconnect the battery ground cable and lay it to the side. Do not allow it to touch metal. Raise the car and support it with jack stands. Remove the right front wheel using the lug wrench. Remove the right front fender splash guard using the appropriate size sockets. 2. Step 2 Place the block of wood on the floor jack. Operate the jack until the wood just touches the bottom of the engine, supporting the engine. Remove the engine mount bracket using the appropriate socket. 3. Step 3 Loosen the alternator support nut and the adjuster lock bolt. Rotate the adjuster bolt counterclockwise, releasing tension on the alternator belt. Remove the belt. To remove the power steering belt, loosen the adjusting bolt and the fixed bolt in the slider bracket. Push the pump inward to loosen the tension on the belt. Remove the belt. To remove the air conditioning belt, push the tensioner pulley away from the belt, then lift the belt off the pulleys. 4. Step 4 Remove the accessory belt tensioner and pulley, water pump pulley, crankshaft pulley bolt and pulley and the timing belt upper and lower covers using the appropriate sockets. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the pointer on the camshaft sprocket is at the dot on the cylinder heat at the 12 o'clock position, the dot on the oil pump sprocket is lined up with the dot on the block at the 11 o'clock position and the dot on the crankshaft sprocket is lined up with the dot on the block at the 10 o'clock position. You may have to turn the engine via the crankshaft two revolutions to get all the marks to line up. 5. Step 5 Remove the auto tensioner using a socket. Lift the timing belt off the sprockets. Remove the timing belt tensioner pulley bolt using a socket. Pull the tensioner pulley off. Rotate the tensioner pulley by hand to ensure that it rotates smoothly. If not, then replace it. 6. Step 6 Compress the auto tensioner pushrod into the auto tensioner using a vise, until the hole in the pushrod lines up with the hole in the auto tensioner body. Stick an Allen wrench in the holes to hold the pushrod in the auto tensioner. Remove the auto tensioner from the vise. Install the auto tensioner using a socket. Tighten the bolts to 17 foot pounds of torque. Install the tensioner pulley. 7. Step 7 Check the timing marks to ensure all three are still lined up. Install the timing belt, starting at the crankshaft pulley and working counterclockwise. Keep the belt tight on the non-tensioned side (the right side, when looking down at the engine). Turn the tensioner pulley counterclockwise so that it applies tension to the belt. 8. Step 8 Turn the crankshaft 90 degrees counterclockwise, then 90 degrees clockwise. Check the timing marks to ensure they are lined up. Loosen the tensioner bolt. Attach special tool MD 998752-01 and the torque wrench to the tensioner pulley. Set the torque wrench to 30 foot pounds of torque. Apply torque counterclockwise to 30 foot pounds. Hold the pulley to keep it from moving. Apply an additional 35 foot pounds of torque to the bolt. 9. Step 9 Remove the Allen wrench from the auto tensioner. Turn the crankshaft clockwise two turns. Let the vehicle sit for 15 minutes (without touching anything). Measure the pushrod protrusion. It should be .15 to .18 inches. If not, loosen the tensioner pulley, then turn it clockwise so that it applies tension to the belt. Repeat Steps 8 and 9. 10. Step 10 Install the rest of the parts in reverse order of removal. Torque the crankshaft pulley bolt to 18 foot pounds of torque.
Follow these steps to replace the Timing Belt on your Mitsubishi Galant: 1) Disconnect the battery ground cable using a wrench. Remove the splash guards and loosen the accessory drive belt tensioners, then lift the accessory drive belts off the pulleys. 2) Remove the top engine mount and its bracket, the alternator and the power steering pump and leave the power steering fluid lines attached to the pump, and just lay the pump out of the way. 3) Remove the air conditioning compressor and the crankshaft pulley bolt, then pull the pulley off the snout of the crankshaft. Remove the belt guide plate, the timing belt cover cap and the timing belt covers. 4) Turn the crankshaft until the crankshaft timing marks line up. If the camshaft timing marks do not line up, turn the crankshaft one more time, then all the marks should line up. 5) Now, loosen the tensioner bolt and push the tensioner away from the belt. Tighten the bolt enough to hold the tensioner out of the way. Lift the timing belt off the sprockets and pulleys. Check that the timing marks are still lined up. 6) Install the timing belt working in a counterclockwise rotation, starting with the crankshaft sprocket. While keeping tension on the belt, route it over the right camshaft sprocket. Hold the tension, then route the belt under the water pump pulley, over the left camshaft sprocket, then behind the tensioner pulley. 7) Loosen the tensioner bolt, allowing the tensioner to put tension on the belt. Turn the crankshaft clockwise two turns until all three timing marks are lined up again. Tighten the tensioner bolt and the crankshaft pulley and install the rest of the parts in reverse order of removal.
I assume you have just one belt. 4.6 L engine. Well, take a good look how it runs around the pulley's, and with a ratchet there is a square slot it will fit into on the tensioner, pull or push whichever way, and the tensioner will slack enough to release the belt. The rest is your memory on how the belt fits.
Most likely the new pulley is not in line with the rest.
To replace the drive belt on a '96 Suburban you have to release the tention on the tentioner pulley with a wrench or socket. Once you get the belt off of at least one pulley you can release the tentioner pulley. Remove the belt the rest of the way. To re-install the belt follow the routing guide under the hood. To get the belt all the way on you'll have to release the tentioner on the pulley again to get the belt all the way on. Once the belt is all the way on release the pulley and inspect the belt to make sure it's all the way on all the pulleys. Remove the wrench or socket and you're done. Hope this helps, good luck.
Serpentine belts use an pulley to keep tension on the belt. You need a breaker bar; attach to the tension pulley and turn the nut. One way will not move and the other way will loosen the belt. It will usually then just slide off that pulley and then come off all the rest.
Easiest way is with a 3/8 ratchet and a short piece of pipe on the end. The tensioner is below the ac pump, pry back on tensioner to release tension and slip belt off alternator first and then remove rest of belt and put on in reverse order
The 1991 Toyota Celica GT has a freewheeling engine. Should the timing belt break or stretch past its usefulness, there is little chance that the valves could hit the pistons and cause major engine damage. The manufacturer recommends you change the GT's timing belt every 60,000 miles. You need a special tool to complete the procedure, and it is available through the Toyota dealer. It takes approximately five hours to change the timing belt in the Celica GT.Step 1Disconnect the battery's ground cable and lay the cable aside. Jack up the Celica GT and support it with jack stands. Remove the engine splash guard and the intercooler using the appropriate sockets. Remove the accessory drive belt by loosening the tensioner and removing tension on the belt.Step 2Remove the alternator and its bracket using the appropriate socket and wrench. Remove the right front wheel using the lug wrench. Remove the right fender apron shield using the appropriate size socket.Step 3Place the block of wood on the floor jack. Support the engine with the floor jack by jacking it up just until it touches the bottom of the engine. Remove the right engine mount and the mount bracket using the appropriate sockets. Remove the upper timing belt cover.Step 4Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the timing marks on the crankshaft and the camshaft line up. If the marks do not line up the first time around, turn the engine again, and the marks should line up. The crankshaft mark is at 11 o'clock and the camshaft timing marks are at 12 o'clock.Step 5Remove the auto tensioner securing bolts and the auto tensioner using the appropriate sockets. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt using the appropriate socket. Remove the pulley using the special tool #09213-31021. Remove the lower timing belt cover and the belt guide washer. Remove the tensioner pulley retaining bolt and the tensioner pulley using the appropriate sockets. Remove the timing belt. Check the tensioner pulley to make sure it rotates smoothly. If not, replace the tensioner pulley.Step 6Install the tensioner pulley and tighten the bolt to 38 foot-pounds of torque. Inspect the auto tensioner for oil leakage. If it leaks, replace it. Press the pushrod against a hard surface. If you can move the pushrod, replace the auto tensioner. Measure the pushrod where it exits the auto tensioner. If the measurement is not between .34 and .37 inches, replace it.Step 7Install the timing belt, starting at the crankshaft sprocket and oil pump sprocket (at the same time) and working counterclockwise around the guide pulley and pulley. Install the belt guide washer and the timing belt lower cover.Step 8Install the crankshaft pulley and the crankshaft pulley bolt. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 80 foot-pounds of torque. Check the crankshaft timing mark to ensure it is still aligned. The notch in the pulley should line up with the zero mark on the timing scale printed on the block.Step 9Install the timing belt around the camshaft sprockets and behind the tensioner pulley, keeping the timing belt tight on the non-tensioned side (right side while facing the engine).Step 10Push the pushrod in the auto tensioner using a vise or press. Insert an Allen wrench through the hole in the body of the auto tensioner and into the hole in the pushrod once they line up to hold the pushrod in place. Tighten the tensioner pulley bolt to 13 foot-pounds of torque. Install the auto tensioner. Tighten the bolts just enough to hold it in place. Leave the torque wrench on the bolt, ensuring that the handle lines up with the camshaft sprocket.Step 11Turn the crankshaft clockwise 5/6 of a turn, aligning the crankshaft pulley mark (the pointer mark, not the notch mark) with the 60-degree BTDC mark on the timing cover.Step 12Loosen the auto tensioner bolts. Insert the 0.75-inch feeler gauge between the auto tensioner's body and the tensioner pulley bracket. Hold the tensioner in place and tighten the auto tensioner bolts to 15 foot-pounds of torque. Remove the feeler gauge, the Allen wrench and the torque wrench from the tensioner pulley bolt.Step 13Turn the crankshaft clockwise for one turn, lining up the crankshaft pulley mark (the notch, not the pointer) to the 60-degree BTDC mark on the timing cover. Measure the distance between the auto tensioner body and the tensioner pulley bracket with the feeler gauges. The measurement needs to be between 0.071 and 0.087 inches. If the clearance is incorrect, repeat the entire timing belt installation procedure.Step 14Turn the crankshaft clockwise 2 1/6 turns until the No. 1 cylinder is at top dead center. To ensure the No. 1 cylinder is at top dead center, insert a long screwdriver into the spark plug hole while turning the engine. When you feel the piston come up to the top of the bore, the cylinder is at top dead center. Check that the timing marks are still lined up. Install the rest of the parts in reverse order of removal.
Easier than you think . . .Forget the pry bar, the socket, or whatever other tool you might have been told to use. Position the belt on every pulley except for the alternator belt. Pull the belt toward the front of the van (this pulls the tension pulley) and wrap it around the pulley on the alternator. It takes about 5 seconds and does not require a tool at all.Answer:Notes:There are a few ways to move / pry the arm inwards, thus releasing the tension on the belt for removing/installing: grab on the pulley bolt (15mm?) with a wrench, or some later models have an opening for a 3/8th socket wrench to attach to directly without a socket."Screaming"/whining that goes up and down with engine speed is a key symptom of a bearing wearing out - one of which of course is the tensioner pulley bearing.The serpentine belt tensioner / idler pulley is preset at the factory. If it is worn out, it will need to be replaced.NOTES:The belt is recommended to be replaced around 60,000 milesThere is a wear indicator (minimum vs maximum) on the face of the tensioner arm to let you definitively now when it's time to change the belt.AnswerThis is a very simple task. All you need is a pry-bar about 24" long that could reach as far as the idler (towards the passenger wall within the engine compartment). The idler is the one that maintains the tension for the serpentine belt during operation.Next is to insert it on the back of the idler (note that there is a slot for it to go and lift down towards you. Your serpentine belt would become loose then your can remove the belt.Note: Please remember how the belt was wound from component to component as this is very important.Another option is to find a socket wrench mounted to a driver and same principle-apply a clockwise motion and the idler will be loosened.Very important: DO NOT DO THIS WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING, K...Good luck.Tips:remember the two pulleys that don't have the grooves in them will be against the smooth side of the beltAnswerThe serpentine belt tensioner is spring loaded. It is the pulley located all the way back toward the firewall. Put a 15mm wrench on the bolt head in the middle of the pulley and leverage the tensioner to slack the belt and remove it.Answerif you're under the hood, look at all the pulleys. the big one in the back, that is the one you will need to get to. I am not well with the proper terms or even tools, however, when you go to tighten it, it will turn towards the front of the car. at that time, you can get the belt off. Remember the diagram of how it goes on, cause if you don't, none of your things will work. oh, buy a book also. it is faster than this forum.AnswerYou need to obtain a flat serpentine changing wrench. They come in a variety of qualities, but a cheapie will do ~10$. You hook that on the end of the sprung idler pulley and rotate against the spring pressure. the belt will loosen, pop it off, and put the new one on. The whole process will take under 10 minutes once the old belt is off. I considered cutting it off, but didn't need to with the wrench. Without the flat wrench, you will fight this for too long and likely not succeed.AnswerI couldn't find a flat serpentine wrench (breaker bar) - the local stores used to carry them. What works just as well is a 15 mm box end wrench (the circular type that encloses a bolt), with a set of vise grip pliers for torque. The wrench is offset just enough to be able to place on the 15 mm bolt of the automatic belt tensioner pulley. Rotate the wrench clockwise (toward the front of the car) to release the pressure on the belt.AnswerA small rope on the end of the 15MM wrench will hold the tensioner or a helper can pull on the rope.AnswerI labored with this one for quite a while, searched the internet, and then someone at work told me the secret.To remove the tension, take a box-end wrench and place it on the pulley bolt. Then use the wrench as a lever (like you are tightening the bolt) and pull toward you. The arm of the tensioner will come toward you (it rotates around the bolt which holds the tensioner on the engine). Remove the belt. If you want to remove the tensioner and/or pulley, loosen the pulley bolt while it is still on the engine (it is easier this way than when the tensioner is off the engine), then loosen and remove the tensioner bolt. Now you can replace the tensioner. You can also just replace the pulley if that is the problem and save about $25.AnswerIt took me four hours to replace the belt on my Windstar...First, take several pictures of the left side of the engine, getting as much of the belt as possible. You'd be surprised how quickly you can forget how the belt is wound around the pulleys and alternator. I'm glad I did, because the guys at the parts house gave me the wrong pattern. I wasted an hour because of their mistake!!!!!The belt runs around a tensioner arm located near the firewall toward the bottom of the engine (by the pass. side front tire). I'm not an auto mechanic, so I don't know the technical term. This is spring loaded and puts tension on the belt. Spray this arm with a boatload of WD 40 'cause you'll need it to move somewhat freely.Take the old belt off and put the new belt on, starting at the flywheel and around the tensioner and all the other pulleys except the alternator which is at the top of the engine. Squeeze the belt at the tensioner, pull the belt towards you, creating some slack in the belt and try to wrap the belt around the alternator.This is the best I could explain it. It's not that easy. You may be better off getting a new tensioner because the old one might be frozen up too bad.Good Luck!AnswerPurchase a serpentine belt wrench. They are a long flat looking wrench from a local auto store. There is a belt tensioner in the rear of the engine. Place the wrench on the tensioner pulley, and pull the wrench toward the front of the engine. This will loosen the belt. Install the belt around the crankshaft, and all other pulleys, excluding the alternator pulley. Hold the last bit of the belt in your hand, and then pull the tensioner toward the front of the engine again, and slip the belt onto the alternator pulley.AnswerAnd for a 2002 Windstar (3.8L).The tensioner pulley was at the back near the bottom. (If you look at a serpentine diagram, it would be at the bottom left.)To release the tension, you have to get a 13mm wrench around the bolt in the center of the pulley and turn clockwise. Space is very tight (no room for a socket), so I recommend using a serpentine tool with attachable wrench heads. AutoZone loans them out for free (deposit required).AnswerActually, the info from the linked question was not correct for a 2002 Windstar (3.8L).The tensioner pulley was at the back near the bottom. (If you look at a serpentine diagram, it would be at the bottom left.)To release the tension, you have to get a 13mm wrench around the bolt in the center of the pulley and turn clockwise. Space is very tight (no room for a socket), so I recommend using a serpentine tool with attachable wrench heads. AutoZone loans them out for free (deposit required).Removing serpentine belt on WindstarYou will need a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar. Look on top front of radiator you will see a winding diagram for replacing the belt also. The tension release pulley, located just below and in front of alternator, has a 1/2 slot in the center of pulley. Insert the 1/2 inch breaker bar in middle of tension pulley and pull up, tension will be released.Reverse procedure to reinstall.- DarrellAnswerTo install:Install the drive belt over all the pulleys, other than the drive belt tensioner.Rotate the drive belt tensioner clockwise, using a 15mm socket or wrench, then install the belt over the drive belt tensioner pulley.Make sure that all of the V-grooves make proper contact with the pulleys.AnswerWell it's probably the same as the 1999 Windstar, so if it is: you need a 13mm key. It's better to have 2 people for this job: one underneath the vehicle with the key and one under the hood to remove the belt.If I remember correctly you torque frontward and the belt will release . Hope it can help!By the way, my van does not have the serpentine belt diagram sticker, so be sure to take a look if you have one, and if not, take a paper and mark the location of the belt through the different pulleys before removing the old one.See "Related Questions" below for links to online sources of belt routing diagrams.AnswerI have successfully changed my serpentine belt on my '96 Windstar. After fighting the tensioner nut my neighbor grabbed a pry bar and put it in the notch on the other side of the nut and belt it very easily moved the pulley down and relieved the tension and slipped the belt off. Leaving the bar in place and letting it pull backwards he rested the pry bar against the car while we put on a new belt. Pulling forward again and slipping the belt back over the alternator for the final touch. Forget the wrenches this was so simple I should sell the answer.AnswerFirst, buy the correct belt, then look on the fan shroud which should give the route that the new belt should take. I'm my 95, it didn't, but the only thing I was doing was replacing the alternator, so I still knew how the belt went. Then release the belt tensioner nut, which is 18mm and hard to reach. Release this nut a few turns, then the tensioner will slide toward the side of the car, and the belt should fit on. To re-tension the belt I am considering buying a tensioner tool, which is a long handled lever for $35.00. If you need a diagram, email me.AnswerFirst of all, you will need to locate the drive belt tensioner and the drive belt tensioner pulley. There should be a belt routing map under the hood.If you have a 6 cyl 3.0L engine: the drive belt tensioner is located between the crankshaft pulley and the water pump pulley and the drive belt tensioner pulley is located between the alternator (or generator) and power steering pump.If you have a 6 cyl 3.8L engine, the drive belt tensioner is located at the very back of the engine (if you follow the belt back from the alternator, the first pulley you come to will be the drive best tensioner) and it's very inconvenient to get to. The drive belt tensioner pulley is located between the alternator and the power steering pump pulley.Per Chilton's manual, use a 15mm wrench on the bolt of the drive belt tensioner and rotate the tensioner clockwise to release the tension. Remove the belt from the drive belt tension pulley. When installing the new belt, make sure that the drive belt is routed correctly and note the position of the indicator mark on the tensioner.Note: A standard belt tensioner tool will not get the job done. Ford may have a special tensioner tool for the Ford Windstar, but I haven't found one. I used a non-angled 15mm 6pt box end wrench (longest one I could find) and used a section of galvanized pipe to slip over the wrench for leverage and was able to release the tension to change the belt.AnswerJust replaced alternator on my 2002 Windstar. Found easiest way to loosen belt tension was by jacking up(and installing stands) front of van and having skinny son slide under. Could loosen tensioner for removal and re-installation with a **13mm**combination wrench and some grunting. Also, prior to loosening belt, I taped belt to all pulleys wherever I could reach them. That way the belt stayed in place.AnswerMy brother has a 1998 ford Windstar 6 cyl 3.8 engine. The drive belt tensioner broke. so He got a new replacement. He tried to put the serpentine belt ALL BY HIMSELF with no avail. just before he gave up. he call me. here is what we did: He installed the new drive belt tensioner using a 18 mm wrench without fully tighten the bolt. We routed the belt correctly (following the belt routing map under the hood). only leaving off the alternator pulley. now the only thing left was to put the alternator pulley. this was accomplished by us working simultaneously. while I grabbed the belt close to the tensioner and pulled it with all my strength toward the alternator to relief the tension ; my brother using both hands put the belt around the alternator pulley taking advantage of the loose belt. Once the belt was in place; He tightened the 18mm bolt fully. Mission accomplished.**New Edit: Added to above - on a 1999 Windstar with 3.8LI just did a similar method, but I just wrapped a small rag around the old belt and pulled towards me (front of van) until it was loose enough to pull the belt off the alternator. The I removed the belt from the rest which takes a little bit of twisting and using a flashlight to see where it may be hung up on. Then I put in the new belt around all pullies except the alternator at which time I had my wife come over and carefully place the belt while I pulled on it again.*This ended up being about 20 minutes total time.--------------------------------------------------------------------New EditFor my '98 Windstar 3.8 liter, the first issue is that the picture in the service manual pointed out the idler pulley as the Belt Tensioner; the BT is actually nearer the firewall. I loosened the bolt (18mm) that secures the BT to the engine and the BT pulley bolt(15mm) but was still unable to move the BT in any way.I then put an ~8" loop of 1" webbing around the BT's arm, slid a crowbar thru it and using the top of the strut housing as a fulcrum, lifted the crowbar. The BT shifted and I was able to reach down with one hand and remove the belt from off the idler pulley.First, note that there are significant differences between the 2002/3 and previous model years when it comes to the location of the belt tensioner and belt routing.For 2002 3.8 engines, the belt tensioner is below the power steering pump, below the passenger compartment air intake duct. Unfortunately, this makes it almost impossible to access from above the vehicle. If you can raise the vehicle, you may be able to access the tensioner from below (see final note at bottom of this post).Here's a procedure I've used:1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.2) Draw a diagram of the belt routing--I believe there are as many as 5 belt routings for various Windstar years and models.3) With heavy gloves on, pull up and forward on the belt from the top of the engine (grasp the belt between the alternator and the power steering pump).4) With the slack produced from #3, slip the belt off the small alternator pulley, taking care to not pinch your fingers while you're pulling on the belt.5) Work the old belt off all pulleys and discard.6) Route the new belt according to your diagram from #2 so that it is properly aligned on all pulleys, and riding in the grooved pulleys EXCEPT the alternator.7) Now, again pull hard on the belt to compress the tensioner, and slip the belt over the alternator pulley. Again, be careful to not pinch you fingers.8) Reconnect the negative battery cable.9) Have an assistant crank the engine while you observe the belt travel. Make sure the belt is running fully engaged on all pulleys. If something amiss, you may have to repeat the proceAnswerNOTE: The "official" way to release the belt tension is to rotate the tensioner about 110 degrees counter clockwise, and press a flexible metal leaf on its side into a holding slot. Doing this does away with the need to pull hard on the belt. On at least some pre-2002 Windstar models, this was rather easily done with a long screwdriver or pry bar because the tensioner and the front idler pulley were one unit. But on the 2002, Ford decided they should be 2, and moved the tension into an impossible-to-access from above location. On the 2002, you can't even get a socket on the tensioner pulley bolt to rotate it that way, because there's less than 1 inch of clearance between the bolt head and the vehicle frame. You'll have to decide if it's worth getting under the vehicle to save some pulling effort.AnswerTo replace a worn belt, locate the idler or generator pulley.Loosen the hold-down fastener for the idler or generator pulley.Pry the idler or generator pulley inward to release the belt tension and remove the belt.Match the old belt up for size with the new replacement belt.Observe the belt routing diagram in the engine compartment.Install the new belt over each of the drive pulleys. Often the manufacturer recommends a sequence for feeding the belt around the pulleys.Pry out the idler or generator pulley to put tension on the belt.Pry out the idler or generator pulley to put tension on the belt. Install the belt squarely in the grooves of each pulley.Before adjusting belt tension, check for proper pulley alignment. This is especially critical with serpentine belts. Measure the belt deflection in its longest span. If a belt tension gauge is available, use it and compare the tension to specifications.If a belt is too tight, wear to bearings for the water pump, alternator, and engine crankshaft can result.Some late-model Chrysler engines require a torque reading to be taken when tension is applied to the generator drive belt. This is especially important on the longer, multiribbed V-belts.Pry the idler or generator pulley to adjust the belt to specifications.Tighten the idler or generator pulley fastener.Start the engine and check the belt for proper operation.AnswerI just replaced the drive belt on my wife's 1998 windstar, Sunday evening(2/19/06), If you looking on the hood after it is raised you will find a diagrahm that shows how it goes on the pulleys. looking towqards the firewall, you will see a pulley on the top of the other pulleys. there is a place that you can put the end of a crowbar into. being careful to make sure that you have a firm hold with the crowbar, pull the crowbar back towards yourself. this will relieve tension on the automatic belt tensioner. make sure that you have the belt on all pulleys and finally, push the belt onto the idler pulley, it will be the small one that is smoothAnswerUse a pair of medium sized slip joint pliers, upside-down and tilted slightly to the left, to pull back on the tensioner. You will get plenty of slack and keep all of your fingers.AnswerAn answer is found in the linked questionI have a 2002 Windstar, and in it there is a belt tensioner pully (which swings on an eccentric radius) that tightens the belts around the other pulleys on the front of the engine (not front of van due to transverse mount). This is accessed by elevating the vehicle passenger side near the front axle (like you would if removing the front right tire) and above the front axle near the top of the fender wall is this pulley. If looking at the engine under the hood, it would be near the fire wall down by the fender. Once located then use a 13mm wrench (box end preferably) to swing the tensioner pulley toward the front of the van. This will loosen the belt where it can be pulled off the pulley. Make sure you use place the wrench where adequate swing can be achieved. follow the pattern of the existing belt for the replacement of the new one. If the belt has come off, simply find a diagram, or go by the pulley grooves or flat to understand which side the belt goes. Mine was broken, so I had to do that. It was easier for me to start from the top under the hood but leave the alternator pulley as the last one to wrap over (I did this with help, as I had the pulley swung, someone else wrapped the belt over the alternator pully).I hope this help...Be blessed in Christ >blueletterBible.orge-Sword.netAnswerYou need to use a socket wrench.There's a square hole behind the tensioner (You need to get under the car) and get the socket wrench and fit the head into the square hole.You will also need some hollow steel tubing to place over the wrench handle for use as a breaker. You will need this for leverage to get enough clearance to fit the new belt on.Answerpully is at the back of the engine,to left of the coil pack,a 15mm wrench fits the bolt,pull it toward you 2000 Ford Windstar - You'll need to put the car on jack stands or secure ramps. Find the tensioner by pointing a flashlight into the engine compartment just to the rear of the alternator pulley. Then slide unde the car next to the passenger side wheel. The bolt on the tensioner is 12mm. You'll need to use a box or open end wrench. Turn the wrench counterclockwise to take the tension off.To replace a worn belt, locate the idler or generator pulley. Loosen the hold-down fastener for the idler or generator pulley. Pry the idler or generator pulley inward to release the belt tension and remove the belt. Match the old belt up for size with the new replacement belt. Observe the belt routing diagram in the engine compartment. Install the new belt over each of the drive pulleys. Often the manufacturer recommends a sequence for feeding the belt around the pulleys. Pry out the idler or generator pulley to put tension on the belt. Pry out the idler or generator pulley to put tension on the belt. Install the belt squarely in the grooves of each pulley. Before adjusting belt tension, check for proper pulley alignment. This is especially critical with serpentine belts. Measure the belt deflection in its longest span. If a belt tension gauge is available, use it and compare the tension to specifications. If a belt is too tight, wear to bearings for the water pump, alternator, and engine crankshaft can result. Some late-model Chrysler engines require a torque reading to be taken when tension is applied to the generator drive belt. This is especially important on the longer, multiribbed V-belts. Pry the idler or generator pulley to adjust the belt to specifications. Tighten the idler or generator pulley fastener. Start the engine and check the belt for proper operation.Well it's probably the same as the 1999 Windstar, so if it is: you need a 13mm key. It's better to have 2 people for this job: one underneath the vehicle with the key and one under the hood to remove the belt. If I remember correctly you torque frontward and the belt will release . Hope it can help! By the way, my van does not have the serpentine belt diagram sticker, so be sure to take a look if you have one, and if not, take a paper and mark the location of the belt through the different pullies beforeremoving the old one.
You take i believe a 15mm wrench place it on the tensioner nut....its a tight squeeze. and push down real hard while at the same time slipping the belt off of the pulley. make sure you draw a diagram of the belt route before you take it off.. when putting the new belt on start off with the hardest part first. drop the belt all the way down the right side, and the fold the left side of the belt and route it between the crank pully and the one above it. then do the rest. note do not put the belt on the tensioner pully till last..just hold it in position while you put the belt on the rest of the pulleys. good luck it should not take more than 10-15 mins See "Related Questions" below for more information
in the 98 model you have to find the tensioner pully (the one that doesn't look like it actually does anything). it's the one that keeps your belt tight to run your accessories i.e. a/c, alternator/ blah blah. find the right size socket for the front nut in the center of the pulley in the front, and torque it counter-clockwise? one way or another. when you turn it the right way the pulley will actually dip down and release tension on the belt (don't be scared to put a little weight into it). once the tensioner is depressed pull the belt off the rest of the pulleys. well if you don't know what an alternator looks like look for a cylindrical housing with a pulley facing toward the front of the car with slits going all around the circumference of the back of the cylinder. poor description but hopefully helps. anyways... find the 2 mounting bolts and remove. 1 will be for locking the tension after the belt is reinserted. replace. tension pulley down, belt back on, and tension pulley up. done
First of all, you will need to locate the drive belt tensioner and the drive belt tensioner pulley. There should be a belt routing map under the hood. If you have a 6 cyl 3.0L engine: the drive belt tensioner is located between the crankshaft pulley and the water pump pulley and the drive belt tensioner pulley is located between the alternator (or generator) and power steering pump. If you have a 6 cyl 3.8L engine, the drive belt tensioner is located at the very back of the engine (if you follow the belt back from the alternator, the first pulley you come to will be the drive best tensioner) and it's very inconvenient to get to. The drive belt tensioner pulley is located between the alternator and the power steering pump pulley. Per Chilton's manual, use a 15mm wrench on the bolt of the drive belt tensioner and rotate the tensioner clockwise to release the tension. Remove the belt from the drive belt tension pulley. When installing the new belt, make sure that the drive belt is routed correctly and note the position of the indicator mark on the tensioner. __________________________________________________________________________________________________ NOTE: The above, is mostly correct, with the exception that the tensioner pulley is NOT between the alternator and power steering pump on the 3.8 litre. The power steering pump is located on the forward most portion of the motor, on the passenger side of the vehicle. The only pulley close to being in between both of those pulleys is the idler pulley, not tensioner. The tensioner is however the furthest towards the firewall of all the pulleys, as stated above. To state that the tensioner pulley is located in an area that is "inconvenient" is an understatement to the extreme. There is barely enough room to get your arm in there and if your a big man, forget it. Find someone with thinner proportions. Or, get a REALLY long 15mm wrench. When I say that, I mean something along the lines of 3 ft. in length. That does not have an angled box end. Failing that, and as an aside, I would like to share a "mechanics technique" for applying leverage, when you don't have enough, and are working with limited space that do not allow for sockets, and you don't have a breaker bar that will fit over the end of the wrench, as I discovered mine would not. What I did, in this instance, for releasing the tension on the belt pulley's, as I needed to replace the alternator in this case, was I placed the 15mm wrench on the tensioner bolt. I feel it is important to note, that I was using an angled box end to do this portion of the job, which is NOT the best choice, but it was what I had. I had the open end facing up, and the angle head was placed in such a manner as to have the open end leaning towards the distributor. I then took a large (1" open/box end) wrench, which so happened to be about a foot long, and placed open end horizontal and slid it into the open end of the 15mm. There was no room to do this in the traditional manner, which is to actually hook the box end around the open end, in such a way as to make two wrenches extend and become one. The hood sill is in the way. So I placed the two open ends together. When I pressed downwards on the box end of the 1" wrench, it gave enough extra leverage, that I was able to rotate the tensioner and release the belt. You MUST push down on this enough to come close to the alternator itself, for this to work, but the combination of wrenches is a viable solution, if you can't just go out and purchase a crowbar, or don't have the proper length of 15mm to give you the leverage that you need. This technique will also allow you to work with your free hand to remove the belt from the alternator. When you release your tension again, the end of your 15mm should rest against the A/C hoses at the firewall. This is fine, as the tension this creates will keep the tensioner pulley available and you can remove the larger wrench from the equation temporarily, until you are ready to place the belt over the final pulley. Or when you are done replacing the alternator. As a note of caution, if you are using this technique, do be aware of your angles. If the leverage wrench slips, the belt will snap instantly back into place. KEEP YOUR FINGERS CLEAR OF THE PULLEYS and be MINDFUL of your steadiness when working this leverage technique. It ISN'T the most stable. The tensioner clamps down with enough force, that you CAN lose fingers... Or at least have them crushed. I don't want that happening to you. I people with a creative solution to tensioner pulley leverage issues. It is simple and very effective, but caution is warranted. The forum is working! The info provided for changing serpentine belt on 95 Ford Windstar was invaluable to my success, albeit I have a 3.8L 1996 Windstar. Thanks for participating people! As an addendum that someone might find of use to remove/replace belt as the solution was different from anything I found� Pulley locations: Looking across engin from passenger side(Failed to maintain formatting of poor man's diagram. Check on hood for belt ID and layout; found one on internet as well: http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/jpg/small0900823d801d2c16.jpg Refer to above link for pulley IDs as I reference them by number. Finally determined the drive belt tensioner pulley (#4) gave up the ghost causing belt to pop off. As of Sept 05, Ford dealer: ~$33.00. Internet: ~$16.00, but when you can�t wait for delivery�Ford dealer (tried Pep Boys & AutoZone, didn�t have). 1)Replaced #4 pulley (comes w/mounting bolt) using an 18mm ratcheting combo wrench made by GearWrench and purchased from Lowes (~$10). Chose this as the ratchet side is as thin as the crescent side (too small a space for normal ratchet w/socket). 2) I routed belt per drawing on vehicle leaving belt off #4 and using someone�s forum suggestion, I taped belt to #6 pulley w/only masking tape which worked well enough to hold belt in position. 3) Purchased a 14 inch crowbar (called a �construction tool� by Lowes) for $9.00. One end flares out at ~45 deg., other end heavily curves to 90 deg. in opposite direction of 45 deg. flare. The key to success w/this tool is the curvature providing excellent torque/rotation through a smaller distance than anything straight. I placed the 45 deg end in a notch on the right side of drive belt tensioner (mounted to the engine block and attached to #7. Applied downward force on crowbar until 90 deg. end barely made contact w/generator. I was then able to hold in position w/one hand and slip remaining belt on pulley #4. Belt placement took 5 minutes!! 4) Final note: #7 along w/attached part (not sure what this is called: spring loaded idler pulley?) to engine block is a self-adjusting tensioner. It naturally wants to rotate toward firewall so rotating it toward the front of the car releases tension and when released automatically tightens belt aligning markings on �spring loaded idler pulley�. I originally tried to use #7 as others suggested, but I found the work space too tight. I also slid an extension pipe over the 15mm wrench to increase torque, but the pipe I used was too long such that when I relieved belt tension the pipe prevented easy access to the belt on #4 as the two pulleys are aligned. Oh thank you. I had success using the crowbar technique. I had to replace the idler pulley (item #4) on my 1996 Windstar as the old one lost all its bearings and was sparking. The replacement was plastic and not rounded making it difficult to slide the belt on. I almost ran to a different parts store to shop for an identical replacement. 60 seconds to replace the pulley. 60 minutes or more fighting to get the belt on. What finally did it for me was the crowbar. I found that pushing the crow bar down past the alternater, it put pressure on the belt. I had to start with the crow bar through the belt, into the notch of the tensioner. It was a tight fit, but when I cranked the crow bar down, the last time (of course the 30 times before it wasn't just right), the belt slid on. Good luck to the next person who reads this. Hope this helped, or at least encourages you, even more.
There is no fan belt. Cavaliers, sunbirds, and sunfires use electric fans. But there is a serpentine belt...just go to your mechanic and they can put a new one on! Seriously, changing the serpentine belt is a messy annoying chore but easily accomplished. The belt is held in place by a few of the pulleys and the tensioner. Before removing the belt, check to see that the tensioner pulley (kinda in the middle on top... smooth and likely shiny) is running straight and the belt has not been rubbing against the timing cover. If the tensioner isn't straight (in-line with the belt and the rest fo the pulleys) or there are rub marks on the timing cover from the belt, you will need to replace the tensioner assembly too. Time to decide if the mechanic is a better idea or not! The tensioner is 50 to 90 bucks depending on the source and your haste. The job should take an hour to an hour and a half for a decent shop (figure another 100 to 200 bucks) plus a new belt... So the job should run between 300 and 400 dollars U.S. On the other hand, pretty much all the accessories have to be removed or loosened to remove the tensioner assembly (not repairable) and replace it. Plus, for an added bonus, it's kinda tight against the right fender. Messy by any standard. If your tensioner is OK or at least "reasonable," you just take tension off the belt with a suitable wrench or socket handle, slip the belt off the tensioner and slooowly release the tensioner. Check for a belt route diagram on a sticker on the radiator support (or under the hood). If yours is missing or undecipherable, make some notes or take pictures of the belt routing! Then the belt can be manuvered off and a replacement put on "reassembly being the reverse of disassembly."
There should be a belt diagram on the underside of the left foot rest.
Somewhat difficult, but with some patience can be done. Start by unbolting the radiator reservoir and moving it up and out of the way. I believe its one 10mm bolt and the rest are just plastic clips. You'll need a serp belt removal tool, you can buy one or usually rent from auto parts store. Find the belt tensioner and using the belt tool, release the tension. Before you do this draw a diagram of how the belt goes, pay close attention. Release the tension, take the belt off. Compare the old belt with new belt to make sure the size is right. Install new belt, make sure its on every pulley perfectly. While the belt is off inspect the tensioner for 'play' it should not wobble or move roughly. If vehicle has high miles you may want to replace the tensioner as well. Put the radiator overflow bottle back, and you're all done! You'll probably have some bruised knuckles.
Somewhere in the belt path, is a tensioner. It looks much like the rest of the pulleys, but is mounted on a spring loaded arm which swivels. Once you locate that, you can put a socket or other tool on it and move it so that the belt loosens. Pull the belt off while holding the tensioner. NOTE: Check to see if you have a belt routing diagram somewhere under the hood. If so, good. There will be no problem replacing the belt. If not, make your own diagram of the belt routing so you can get it back correctly. FriPilot
First, make sure there is a diagram that shows just how the belt winds around all the pulleys. There should be a sticker right above the fan. If it is not there get a flash light and make your own diagram. CHECK IT TWICE! Just below the alternator is a tension pulley. It is a wheel that's only purpose it to keep the belt tight. When I change mine, I can get my arm in behind the tension pulley and push it in. That loosens the belt and you can remove it. If you aren't strong enough to push it in you will have to use a crow bar. Be careful what you use for leverage. There are a lot of hoses down there. You may need to put a small block of wood below the pulley and use that to rest your crow bar on as you push against the pulley. As I said, I am able to push it in with my hand and I am not a big guy. As you push the pulley in, I find it easiest to slide the belt off the very top pulley. It is smooth and just to the right of the alternator. Next put your new belt on just like the diagram. I find that it is easiest to put the belt around all the pulleys but the very top pulley (it is just to the right of the alternator.) It is smooth and doesn't do anything but guide the belt. Push the tension pulley in (with the belt already on it) and slide the belt onto the last pulley on top. If you are having trouble, make sure the belt is centered on all the pulleys. Once you get the belt on DOUBLE CHECK that the belt fits around each pulley just like the diagram. Also make sure that the belt is centered on each pulley. Most of the pulley wheels with have 6 grooves on them. If the belt is off by one groove, it will be torn apart in about 2 minutes. If everything is centered, you are good to go.
Tools: Eye protection, wrench, Allen wrench or both to loosen the idler pully, a socket and long handled braker bar to loosen the tensioner. First, check the size of the wrench you will need to remove the idler pully (either a nut on the back of the pully or an Allen wrench from the front.) do not loosen! Next find a socket that will fit the tensioner (The tensioner is the only pully on an arm) At the tensioner there is a nut that the socket will fit (don't worry you cannot remove the nut as it is built into the tensioner) attach socket and braker bar to the tensioner. Either push or pull the braker bar and the tensioner will either tighten the serpentine belt or loosen it. Loosen it and hold breaker bar in place by letting it rest against something (holding the breaker bar for 10 to 15 minutes is the pitts) Only pull the belt off one pully (such as the alternator or AC) Once the belt is off one of the pullys, slowly release the breaker bar. It will travel beyond its normal traveling area. You may have to put the belt back on the tensioner and reposition the socket and breaker bar to get the travel you need to remove the belt. If you are changing the belt, make sure you have a diagram to reinstall the belt. The idler pully can now be removed using the other wrench. To reinstall reverse the procedure and slip the belt over the pullys and check to make sure that all the belt grooves are in all the pully grooves. Have someone start the car with instructions to shut the car off immediatly if the belt is not installed correctly. (Be extra carefull when starting the car. Do not get to close as if the belt is installed incorrectly it can jump out and bite you) tata G
You may be able to one through Dayco or gates at their site.
Be PatientI'm now working on my son's 1995 Honda Civic LX with a 1.5L Engine 4-door LX model. (I understand that Civic 92-95 are the same) His alternator belt broke so I figured it would be a good father-son first car learning experience for him and a simple task for me. (wrong...). Since the alternator belt is the closest to the engine of the three belts on the crackshaft pulley, I started by removing the Power Steering pump belt since it is the furthest away. Loosen the pivot pulley at the bottom, then the adjusting pulley at the top. The wing nut screw at the top can then be removed and the belt will come loose. That is where simple ends.To be able to see anything from the top, remove all the bolts from of the power steering pump and move it out of the way. One can then clearly see the tensioner pulley in between the crackshaft pulley and the A/C clutch pulley.We removed the driver's side tire and plastic wheel well to see the pulleys and belts more clearly. From underneath the wheel well is also how we first located the A/C tensioner pulley adjusting screw, which adjusts from the top IF YOU CAN FIND IT.This screw is a 10mm hex head screw which is between the engine and the back of the the A/C tensioner pulley. (Get your Mag-lite out) You'll need a few extension bars on your ratchet to reach it. When you start loosening the adjusting screw, if you are lucky, it will loosen the belt and the pulley will move lower. In our case, since corrosion and dirt were everywhere, we took some WD-40 and Blaster (top and bottom) and hardly loosened it up. We had to pound on the top of the extensions with the 10mm socket connected to get the pulley to move down and fully loosen the belt.Here is the best part.....When you go to remove the A/C belt, the motor mount prevents the belt from coming out. Yes!... you have to remove the outer nut on the motor mount by starting with a 19mm socket, followed by a deep well 14 mm socket to remove the steel bar that goes through the middle of the motor mount rubber (we don't have a deep well 14mm so I might unbolt the whole motor mount and slide the belts through.We stopped for the night at this point, but the rest should be simple once the motor mount is out of the way. We will be changing all the belts.
ldle in english means to sit at rest or be still so i can see where this term may confuse you. but an idler pulley on a car rides on a bearing that spins. so YES it turns. it is used as an adjustment that your fan or SERPENTINE belt rides on . to keep tension on your belt. to clarify, the pulley by itself will not turn, it is turned by the motion of the belt moveing on in.