In the United States the common house current is commonly referred to as either 115 volts or 120 volts. The voltage varies due to the distance from the transformer on the pole because electricity loses voltage the further it has to travel.
This is hard to say as it is up to the manufacture as to whether it is compatible. on the specification plate it should state the operating frequencies. if i had to say yes or no and the appliance is the latest model i would say yes it is compatible as these days manufactures allow for those tolerances.
For residential service 110V, 115V, 117V, 120V, and 125V are all functionally the same. Electric companies have been slowly increasing the line voltage over the last 100 years to cope with increased loads. That is where these different voltages come from. The tolerance is generally +/-10%. That's +/- 11.5 volts in this case. So, a 115VAC appliance will run between 103.5 and 126.5VAC. The short answer is yes. 110V appliances can work with up to 130V without being burnt, additionally, 220V appliances can work with up to 240V without being burnt.
Yes.
Further explain "shuts off frequently". Is the breaker tripping? Is it the normal on/off cycling an AC does? Do you have to do something special to make it come back on? FYI: 115, 110, 120...they're all the same (so to speak). 117 Volts is the target voltage.
In the U.S. you should be using 110-115V.
no
Does this air conditioner require 220 volts?
minimum 230volts In formal electrical jargon, a "device" does not "use" electricity. A device is something like a switch or receptacle(outlet) that helps control or carry electricity but does not consume electricity. In the United States, voltage for home lighting and general purpose receptacles is 120v. Voltage for electrical appliances such as ranges, clothes dryers, or furnaces is 240v. Voltages such as 110v, 115v, or 125v are versions of 120v in electrical jargon and voltages such as 220v or 230v are versions of 240v.
The combination will have a resistance of 100ohms, and will drew 144watts. But, the wall outlet will usually be fluctuating from 115V to 135V, 120V is't only a "reference". I suggest you measure it a voltmeter before doing any calculation. Then, you can use this formula (ohms law) to find the correct answer : R = V/I In our case : R(ohms) = 120V / 1.2A R = 100ohms
You could do it with 8-gauge wire, assuming you could even get a 110v water heater like that--4000-watt water heaters are all 220v.
If you live in an area that uses 115V as the mains supply, then it's absolutely fine. Equipment sold in the area will be designed to operate on that voltage and there is no difference in performance between 115V equipment and 230V equipment.
No. The neon sign is fed by a step-up transformer. Primary side 120V, secondary side 7500V. If you applied 240 to the primary side you would get 15000 volts on the neon tube. A flash over and then nothing. If you can find a transformer from 120V to 240V or 240V to 120V then you are good to go. Connect 240V to 240V side and you will get 120V out the other, connect the 120V side to the neon sign and you should have light. Transformer should be at least 100va. This will give you an output of .83 amps at 120V