Lip of a breaking wave?
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When a surfer is riding a wave what part of the wave does the surfer ride and the different parts of wave?
For an experience surfer they generally ride along the curving/bowling face of the wave (known as the wall) from which they can perform numerous manoeuvres, while occasionally riding the bottom of the wave to pass a unmake-able section in the tube and even onto of the lip of the wave performing a 'floater'. For beginner surfers they usually ride the 'white-wash' (the broken wave) where it is easy to catch and normally longer that a unbroken wave breaking.
Asked in Geology
What is The breaking of rock into sediment by wave action of lakes and rivers?
What are surfing to catch and breaking in the excerpt Surfing is the ultimate rush To catch a breaking wave is to live?
Is it normal to have pimples by your lip every month?
Asked in Coastlines
What are two main factors that effect how quickly a coastline erodes?
Is a tsunami a transverse or a longitudinal wave?
Short answer: Both. Long Answer: Many people would think that a tsunami is a transverse wave as they go up and down. But like all water waves a tsunami has elements of transverse wave motion and longitudinal wave motion. In a transverse wave the particles move perpendicular (at right angles) to wave direction. In a longitudinal wave the particles move parallel (in the same direction) to the wave direction. In water waves (including tsunami) the water particles move in a circular or elliptical pattern depending on the depth of the water. In the case of tsunami which can always be treated as shallow water waves, the motion is elliptical. Note that this is only the case for non-breaking waves. As any wave (and particulalry a tsunami) breaks the pure wave behaviour will break down as the energy of the wave is transferred to the turbulent motion of the breaking wave or in some cases (as is common with tsunami) a bore, which is no longer a wave as all the wave energy has been turned into a forward moving 'wall' of water.