The alternator, facing the engine, is located low on the left side of the engine. It really is easier to remove and replace from the bottom.
Its inside the alternator. Its not really something you can replace. If your voltage regulator doesn't work, you need a whole new alternator.
About 200 bucks. Its about 80 to 130 bucks for the alternator, and its really easy to replace. Sits on top of the motor.
The only thing which really gets serviced is the the belt, and that'll vary by vehicle. Inspect your belt regularly, and replace as needed. The alternator itself, all you really need to do is inspect the mounting brackets to ensure that they remain intact and the alternator remains properly aligned. You replace or rebuild the alternator when it goes out, whether due to seized bearings, insufficient voltage, etc.
The relay for the hazards and the indicators is the hazard light switch itself it a all in one unit. Just had to replace mine. Google it you will find the info really quickly and it's easy to do. A new one cost me £18.
The belt tensioner is not located on the alternator. The serpentine belt tension is maintained by the tensioner pulley, located below and to the left (looking from the front of the truck) of the alternator, near the coil and oil dipstick tube. Use a 15MM box-end wrench to turn the bolt in the center of the pulley clockwise, and the belt will slip right off the alternator. This really was a great design... It literally takes less than a minute to change/remove/replace the belt. This applies to the 1999 5.9 (and 5.2 I think)
Alternator is not charging, or if it is the charge is not getting to the battery
First, disconnect the battery cables, Second, you have to drain some or all the coolant so you can remove the upper radiator hose, Third, disconnect the alternator cables, Fourth, loosen the bolt attaching the alternator so you can loosen the alternator belt, Finally, remove the bolt and angle the alternator to remove it. You might need to hammer the alternator from underneath, sometimes they are really tight. 'Hope this helps.
Power steering pump is located under the alternator on the driverside. Best way is to remove the alternator and add to the cold line. It is a pain, there is no really easy way.
Depending on where you live, you MAY be able to find a local auto parts retailer that has the ability to test your alternator. They generally test the entire charging system and do not charge for the service since they're trying to get you to buy parts from them. You're right to not trust the dealer, their mechanics are paid partially by commission and tend to want to replace as many parts as they can.
On a 1.8T, swing the alternator out of the way, and it's at the top of the coolant pipe. On the V6, it's behind a flange under the timing cover. You pretty much need to take the front end off the car unless you have really skinny hands.
The alternator must be driven by a drive belt, or your charging system will fail. Your question really makes no sense.
yes if one of the wires was getting an earth from the alternator cover or rubbing off the engine the battery light is really an alternator light warning you that the alternator is not charging the battery
Voltage regulator is more than likely defective. The Regulator is built into the alternator so you will have to replace the entire alternator. Just make sure it is really overcharging. You should read from 13.5 to around 15.5 volts with a digital DC voltmeter if the alternator is performing as it should. Must more than 15.5 volts and it is overcharging.
Alternator oil pipe? There is no oil pipe connected to the alternator that I have ever seen. The alternator has sealed bearings and does not require any outside lubrication. Are you sure you are looking at the alternator? Is it possible you have a leak at the power steering pump and that is what you are looking at? I really have no answer for you, only more questions. Please clarify. Clay is absolutely right. The alternator has no outside oil connection. Find out what REALLY is leaking. A/C compressor? Power Steering?
I brought my 2005 VW Passat (46,100 miles) into a VW dealer in Minnesota this morning for an oil change. They called and told me two of my CV boots were leaking and that each would cost $330 to repair for a total of $660. I'll probably find someone else to do the work -- or at least check to see if they really are leaking.
Manual transmission is easy. There is a fill plug on the left axle flange and a drain plug on the bottom (special bit required). The automatic must be filled while running so it really isn't a DIY.
Are you sure the alternator is defective, or is the upgrade really necessary? It is not too difficult a job but it requires a big strip-down of the primary which takes a lot of time. Invest in a Haynes or Clymer manual and have a good read of the procedure. Before you attempt it, be sure the task does not exceed your toolbox or skills.
That really depends on what brand and model of alternator, If you have a good battery and electrical system your alternator should go until its ball bearings or brushes wear out. newer Ford alternators last about 130-180,oookm, GM products CS130D (96-up) delco alternators will go about 200-240,ooo km and Chrysler (nippondenso) about the same or a bit better then the GM Delco. The GM and Chry will go till they wear out bearings or brushes, while the Fords usually by this time have worn thru the copper Sliprings on the rotor inside requiring a new rotor or replace the alternator completely
I just did this on a 1994 caravan with the 3.3 litre - should be roughly the same the factory service manual does not even addres the issue, not at least that I could find To change the tensioner, do the following: remove the serpentine belt remove the alternator bolts and move the alternator out of the way - DISCONECT THE BATTERY FIRST when the bolts are out of the alternator, you can move the alternator around and unhook the wiring to it - it is easier to do it this way You can then put the alternator out of the way this exposes the back side of the tensioner and you can get at it with a 15mm open end wrench; you cannot really see it but you can do it by feel. it is held on with one nut on the stud on he back side of the tensioner assembly and located by a pin so it can only go on one way. Damn near imposible to do with the alternator in place but a relative piece of cake with the alternator moved out of the way
Depending on how long the interval was between alternator changes. Less than a year and I would look for warranty on the alternator. Now there are factors beyond the alternator manufacturers control. A battery that is on it's last legs will take out an alternator really fast. A stereo system with a large Amp(s) will also shorten the life of an alternator drastically. These situations will not be a warranty issue.
There are two bearings in an alternator. One (the large one) is a standard ball bearing arrangement. The other is pretty small and is a needle bearing type. Neither are really serviceable. You would have to disassemble the alternator to do it and by the time they need it the alternator is generally shot anyway. If you are hearing a squeal from that area it probably is not the alternator anyway. It is probably the belt tensioner next to the alternator and they cannot be repaired either.
There is one long bolt on top. One smaller bolt on the bottom. They should be pretty easy to see. When installing the new one, align the top bolt first. The bottom bolt will be a little trickier since the alternator is used as the belt tensioner. A long screwdriver and an extra set of hands really help.
in the exhaust system
I found the instructions in a Chiltons #26242 book on Ford Escort/Tracer. I found it easier to remove the alternator as there is a idler pulley hidden beneath it that is a real bugger to get the belt around. Once I solved this problem everything else was easy. The tension pulley that Ford installed really helped as you don't have to adjust the belt.