Hey Ginger==It is very simple.The alternator has 3 connections. One big one for the hot wire from the battery whivh is hot all of the time. The F terminal needs a wire that has voltage when the ignition is turned on and the L terminal goes to the light on the dash. These three wires are at the regulator and just need a little of checking out to find out which one goes where. GoodluckJoe THE EASIEST WAY IS TO INSTALL WHAT'S CALLED A SELF-EXCITING OR ONE-WIRE ALTERNATOR. THE ARE AVAILABLE AT AUTO PARTS STORES AND ON THE internet THROUGH RETAILERS AND E-BAY. YOU WILL PROBABLY NEED TO PURCHASE A MOUNTING BRACKET KIT IN ORDER TO ADAPT YOUR NEW ALTERNATOR AS WELL. THE BEAUTY OF THE ONE WIRE IS THAT IT ELIMINATES THE NEED TO FIGURE OUT WHICH WIRES GO WHERE. ALL YOU SIMPLY HAVE TO DO IS RUN A CABLE FROM THE B+ STUD TERMINAL ON THE BACK OF THE ALTERNATOR TO THE BATTERY. THAT'S IT, NO FUSS. ERICK When you convert from the external regulator alternator, you no longer need the regulator that is mounted on the radiator support. You also don't need some of the wiring that is present in the loom. The diagram below shows the original connection at the old regulator. (I'm sorry, but the wire that is colored yellow, is really white)
The next diagram shows how you modify the loom at this location. Notice that the blue wire is jumpered to the brown wire. The white wire and the orange wire are just capped off so that they will not short out to anything. This next diagram shows what you have to do at the new alternator. The wire that goes from the "BATT" terminal to the #2 terminal is a new wire that you will have to add. You can use a 14 gauge wire. The white wire (shown yellow) just gets capped off. You will need a new connector to fit the new alternator and they can be purchased at almost any auto parts shop. Due to my being bothered by the "extra" wire being in the loom, I totally removed the dead white and orange wires. I also wired the brown wire to the alternator directly. It just gets rid of some extra length of wire. The prior paragraph has caused me a lot of e-mail feed back and hopefully the following information will clear it up. In my final wiring configuration, the "brown wire" comes from the alternator indicator light, through the firewall connector, and directly to the alternator. The result is electrically the same as the diagram at the top of the sheet, just cleaner. The diagram above would have the brown wire coming out of the connector at the firewall, going toward where the regulator was, connecting to the blue wire, then the blue wire goes to the alternator. As I said, I cleaned up the wiring (and in the process, dirtied up the wording). In order to ensure good connections, I recommend that you always solder the connections and then use heat shrink tubing to seal it.
The regulator can be found on the top of the alternator. Remove the wiring harness from the regulator. Remove the retaining screws from the regulator. Reverse the process to install the new regulator.
A generator or alternator will work. gdiah
Should be in the harness between the voltage regulator and the alternator
Remove the accessory drive belt. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnect the generator electrical connector. Remove the engine harness terminal from the generator: - Slide the boot back along the cable. - Remove the engine harness cable nut (3). - Remove the engine harness terminal from the stud. Remove the generator bolts and generator. Install the generator. Install the generator bolts. Tighten the generator bolts to 50 N
The wiring harness from a typical alternator has three wires. One is for grounding, one is from the battery, and the other is from the voltage regulator. In a GM alternator however, there may be two wires or only one wire. It depends on whether you have an external voltage regulator or not, and if the alternator simply grounds itself to the bracket it's attached to. The best way to find out is to trace the wires to their sources.
could be alternator or short in harness
the regulator is part of the alternator its inside the case. The Regulator is on the left inner fenderwell next to the solenoid not in the alternator The Regulator IS in the alternator not on the inner fender next to the solenoid.As im typing im looking at mine. you have the battery, the washer fill,the air pump, the button solenoid and a black box that contains two relays. Well your mark Vii must be different than all 7 of mine. From 1989 Factory service manual page 31-15-3 Alternator Voltage Regulator Removal and installation 1 Disconnect Battery ground cable . 2 Disconnect Regulator from wiring harness 3 Remove regulator mounting screws 4 mount new regulator 5 connect new regulator to wiring harness 6 connect battery cable 7 test the system for proper voltage regulation. you are absolutely right. i am wrong.I put a cold air kit on ten years ago and it blocked my view of the regulator. but in my defense the regulator is on the right side(passenger). takes a big man to admit when he's wrong Sorry yes I guess I'm dislexic it is on the right side I guess we're both big men
No. The voltage regulator is in the engine bay on the passenger side mounted to the fenderwell. It's in front of the strut tower. It's a silver colored metal box, about 2" square. Wire harness connects to it on the bottom.
Remove the fuel regulator retaining screws. Remove the fuel regulator wiring harness. Reverse the process to install the new fuel regulator.
What you need is an alternator wiring pigtail harness from the dealer!
Begin by removing the belt from your 1994 VW Jetta alternator. Remove the alternator wiring harness. Remove the alternator retaining bolts.
Wilson the alternator belt. With the tensioner pulley. Remove the wiring harness from the alternator. Remove the four alternator retaining bolts.
The wiring on the back of your 2000 Pontiac alternator consists of a wiring harness. The wiring harness goes to a few relay switch is and regulators.
You will need to remove the alternator belt. Remove the wiring harness from the back of the alternator. Remove the alternator retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install your new alternator.
Remove the belt from your 1985 Nissan 300 alternator. Remove the wiring harness from the alternator. Remove the alternator retaining bolts. The alternator will come off.
Remove the belt from your Mercury alternator. Remove the wiring harness from the alternator. Remove the retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install your new alternator.
Remove the alternator belt from your 2003 Ford Mustang alternator. Remove the wiring harness from the alternator. Remove the alternator retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new alternator.
The easiest way is to get a late model one-wire alternator, I think circa mid 80's. As by its description, you hook one wire to the battery---and you are charging. It's got the voltage regulator built in. Of course, you will need to figure out how to hook up you alt/ charge light. You'll also need the late model alternator brackets from a junker-or get new chrome ones. Your next cheaper but more labor intensive is to get the alternator, brackets, voltage regulator, and wiring harness from a late 60's to late 70's gm product. Again, you'll need to figure out how to wire the charge light. If I remember right you'll need a hot wire from the fuse box to excite the alternator to charge. I had a 74 Monte Carlo that blew the instrument panel fuse and it quit charging.
Remove the alternator wiring harness. Loosen the tensioner pulley. Remove the alternator belt. Remove the alternator retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new alternator.
Remove the wiring harness from your 1990 Subaru alternator. Remove the alternator belt. Remove the alternator retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install your new alternator.
Typically, the alternator has three connections. One is the ground, which is provided by the bracket that you bolt the alternator to. Second is the main power terminal, and is connected with a bolt to a high power cable that goes directly to the battery. CAUTION: Make sure you disconnect battery ground before you put a wrench on the alternator stud, just in case you touch ground while turning the wrench. Third is a two or three pin connector that goes to the harness, providing regulator power and connection to the warning light. Some older alternators have an external regulator, and they will have a smaller bolted connection to the regulator. Its easy to see which is which, due to the terminal size.
Remove the wiring harness from the back of your 1995 Chrysler LHS alternator. Remove the alternator belt. Remove the alternator retaining bolts. The alternator will come off and can be replaced with the new alternator.
Remove the alternator belt from your 1996 Ford Ranger alternator. Remove the wiring harness from the back of the alternator. Remove the alternator retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new alternator.
The 1995 Infinity alternator can be replaced by removing the alternator belt. Removing the wiring harness from the back of the alternator. Removing the alternator retaining bolts. Put the new alternator on and reverse the process.
Remove the alternator belt from your 2000 Chevrolet Monte Carlo alternator. Remove the wiring harness from the alternator. Remove the alternator retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new alternator.