Fuel Pumps
Mercedes-Benz 300-Series
Honda Accord EX

The 85 300 SD keeps running after the key is turned off How difficult is it to replace the fuel system cut off solenoid?


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2010-01-13 19:33:14
2010-01-13 19:33:14
AnswerYour vacum system could be of failure or a single vacum line or vacum lines could be leaking thus leaving no vacum to shut the engine down. AnswerThe car will not shut off because it runs on a vacuum system. There is a manual "shut Off" red button on top of engine for manual shut off. Problem usually is: 1) Door lock seals have cracked and letting air into the lines or 2) vacuum pump is no good. For 1) need to replace door lock (is a pain to do). Simple fix is open hood. Above steering column is a bunch of vacuum hoses. You'll see the main one coming from the vacuum pump and then branches to many other lines. These hoses are designed so you can pull them apart. First check, follow main line from vacuum pump and pull apart hose and put finger on to see if you are getting good vacuum. Second, Yellow? line going into firewall (under dashboard) goes to the doors. Pull this line off and put finger on to feel vacuum pump sucking. Engine might now cut out if the problem is the door seals. Temporarily I have put a piece of plastic over the hose with rubberband. Obivously you loose automatic door openers but great temporary fix. If it is vacuum pump, don't bother with vacuum pump seal, just get the whole new part. It is relative easy BUT need good alen socket. Also, crank engine so when you install the pump spring isn't letting the pump go down. (just crank the engine w/o starting before you put pump on so pump sits flush, you'll see what i mean. Go to www.alloemautoparts.com for best prices. New AnswerThe fuel cut off solenoid is a simple bolt on, however long slender hands and fingers are a great asset. If installed incorrectly the engine can 'run away' meaning rev uncontrollably until destruction. The stop lever will not work in this situation. I suggest you have another person start the car while you prepare to block the turbo inlet with a damp rag over a small piece of 2x4. Should the engine attempt to 'run away' you can block airflow and suffocate it to stop.

The most likely reason is a door lock vacuum is leaking, lock each door one at a time and see if one door eventually builds up enough vacuum to shut off the engine, then you know which door vacuum unit to chasnge inside the door panel. The rubber boot becomes brittle and leaks. Or there is a vacuum hose pulled off or cracked inside the engine compartment. Last resort is the vacuum shutoff behind the injector pump.


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First locate bad solenoid. Once you have found it, unscrew wife nuts and disconnect the black wires from the other wires. Then simple unscrew the solenoid... Do all this with sprinkler system off

Rich running and rich stumble problems due to NOT being able to vent raw fuel vapors from the system.

If the car does not turn over after the solenoid is replaced, that means the problem was not the starter solenoid. The problems lays elsewhere in the electrical system.

The starter solenoid, despite its name, is not part of a vehicle's ignition system. It is used to send electric current to the starter motor, engaging the engine.

Take it to a mechanic to test the battery, charging system, and starting system (both the solenoid and starter if they are separate pieces). Or remove the starter and take it to a parts store to have it tested. If the battery is ok, the alternator/charger system is putting out power, and you think the starter or solenoid is still the cause, unhook the ground from the battery post after the car has been running but is turned off and leave it like that till the next time you turn on the car when you'll screw it back on. If it starts no problem then it's probable it's the starter or solenoid that was sucking the battery dry.

The purge flow is a term used in the evaporation system....or the emmisions system. There is a puge valve that is solenoid controlled. The vapors purge into the intake while the car is running. if you get this code and your gas cap is tight. something is amiss with the fuel system tightness.

On a 10 year old car it is time for a complete cooling system service. Drain and flush, replace the thermostat, inspect and replace as necessary all hoses. Also replace the thermal switch for the cooling fans.

take the door panel off and replace it> its as simple as that. i have the same thing with a 2000 watt amp running 2 12 in pioneer subs. easy to replace. i blew mine also - i am running into the same problem with the studs there. did you ever find a solution?

Its a problem with the evap system. You should disconnect the electrical connector and then apply and remove 12V power to the vent solenoid/valve. The difference between 12V applied and not applied should be the difference between not being able to blow through it and being able to. After testing at least 5 times, if it fails even once, replace the solenoid/valve. It is usually best to replace the canister as well as you might inadvertently break the canister while replacing the solenoid/valve. See related link for a video with more info.

No, it will do nothing to the computer. However the fuel filter may have become clogged with debris. Replace the fuel filter.

It is cooling the engine off. Your Honda may be running slightly hot. I suggest you service the cooling system. Drain, flush, replace the thermostat, install a 50/50 mix of antifreeze & distilled water, bleed air from system.

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usually in front or on top of the gas tank. If you are getting a code like P0449 "Evap Vent Solenoid Control Circuit Malfunction" You could first check the wiring at the solenoid for corrsion, if OK change the valve. If the solenoid is on the top of the tank you have to drop the tank It is not by the tank. The purge valve is right on top of the odd #'d bank's intake. There are two vacuum lines running to it.

I's a problem with the EGR system and or the EGR solenoid.

The Mark 8 does not have a check-valve in the air suspension system. Each air spring has a solenoid valve, which controls fill and vent of the spring. There is a fifth in the suspension compressor itself, which controls venting the system. I discovered that the seat for vent valve was corroded in my compressor, which would then leak when the system was trying to fill. This resulted in the compressor running, but the car lowering. I was able to clean the seat up for a temporary repair, but ultimately replaced the compressor.

It is always difficult to replace a heater core on almost any vehicle. If it is leaking then it needs replacing. The reason may be a faulty core when new, or not changing and flushing the cooling system properly or just neglecting the service. Also the system must be flushed with the heater set to hot or the core will not be flushed.

It sounds like there is a broken water line under the sand. Perhaps from a sprinker system?

It is one of the solenoid past your battery on the left side I'm not sure which on or if both but those two solenoids are part of the 4x4 system

There could be more than one reasons. Applied voltage may not be 118 volts. Solenoid valve may have been stuck mechanically. Solenoid coil could be faulty, partially short.

The more things you have running the slower your system goes.

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the VW regulator system is very difficult to DIY. It is very well be worth your time to take it to a mechanic

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