The most likely reason is a door lock vacuum is leaking, lock each door one at a time and see if one door eventually builds up enough vacuum to shut off the engine, then you know which door vacuum unit to chasnge inside the door panel. The rubber boot becomes brittle and leaks. Or there is a vacuum hose pulled off or cracked inside the engine compartment. Last resort is the vacuum shutoff behind the injector pump.
You need to replace the tap system to make soft water system to stop running when its not supposed to because it seems that it is draining constantly will not stop.
First locate bad solenoid. Once you have found it, unscrew wife nuts and disconnect the black wires from the other wires. Then simple unscrew the solenoid... Do all this with sprinkler system off
Rich running and rich stumble problems due to NOT being able to vent raw fuel vapors from the system.
Take it to a mechanic to test the battery, charging system, and starting system (both the solenoid and starter if they are separate pieces). Or remove the starter and take it to a parts store to have it tested. If the battery is ok, the alternator/charger system is putting out power, and you think the starter or solenoid is still the cause, unhook the ground from the battery post after the car has been running but is turned off and leave it like that till the next time you turn on the car when you'll screw it back on. If it starts no problem then it's probable it's the starter or solenoid that was sucking the battery dry.
If the car does not turn over after the solenoid is replaced, that means the problem was not the starter solenoid. The problems lays elsewhere in the electrical system.
The starter solenoid, despite its name, is not part of a vehicle's ignition system. It is used to send electric current to the starter motor, engaging the engine.
The purge flow is a term used in the evaporation system....or the emmisions system. There is a puge valve that is solenoid controlled. The vapors purge into the intake while the car is running. if you get this code and your gas cap is tight. something is amiss with the fuel system tightness.
On a 10 year old car it is time for a complete cooling system service. Drain and flush, replace the thermostat, inspect and replace as necessary all hoses. Also replace the thermal switch for the cooling fans.
The Mark 8 does not have a check-valve in the air suspension system. Each air spring has a solenoid valve, which controls fill and vent of the spring. There is a fifth in the suspension compressor itself, which controls venting the system. I discovered that the seat for vent valve was corroded in my compressor, which would then leak when the system was trying to fill. This resulted in the compressor running, but the car lowering. I was able to clean the seat up for a temporary repair, but ultimately replaced the compressor.
take the door panel off and replace it> its as simple as that. i have the same thing with a 2000 watt amp running 2 12 in pioneer subs. easy to replace. i blew mine also - i am running into the same problem with the studs there. did you ever find a solution?
No, it will do nothing to the computer. However the fuel filter may have become clogged with debris. Replace the fuel filter.
Its a problem with the evap system. You should disconnect the electrical connector and then apply and remove 12V power to the vent solenoid/valve. The difference between 12V applied and not applied should be the difference between not being able to blow through it and being able to. After testing at least 5 times, if it fails even once, replace the solenoid/valve. It is usually best to replace the canister as well as you might inadvertently break the canister while replacing the solenoid/valve. See related link for a video with more info.
There are multiple systems necessary in the process of running and walking. Most importantly are the muscular system and skeletal system.
It is cooling the engine off. Your Honda may be running slightly hot. I suggest you service the cooling system. Drain, flush, replace the thermostat, install a 50/50 mix of antifreeze & distilled water, bleed air from system.
It is always difficult to replace a heater core on almost any vehicle. If it is leaking then it needs replacing. The reason may be a faulty core when new, or not changing and flushing the cooling system properly or just neglecting the service. Also the system must be flushed with the heater set to hot or the core will not be flushed.
It sounds like there is a broken water line under the sand. Perhaps from a sprinker system?
system running hot fans not running
It is one of the solenoid past your battery on the left side I'm not sure which on or if both but those two solenoids are part of the 4x4 system
usually in front or on top of the gas tank. If you are getting a code like P0449 "Evap Vent Solenoid Control Circuit Malfunction" You could first check the wiring at the solenoid for corrsion, if OK change the valve. If the solenoid is on the top of the tank you have to drop the tank It is not by the tank. The purge valve is right on top of the odd #'d bank's intake. There are two vacuum lines running to it.
in the back on the drivers side
I's a problem with the EGR system and or the EGR solenoid.
There could be more than one reasons. Applied voltage may not be 118 volts. Solenoid valve may have been stuck mechanically. Solenoid coil could be faulty, partially short.
The more things you have running the slower your system goes.
on modern cars the fuel system is unvented. The evap purge and vent solenoid goes to a charcoal canister. When the vehicle is off the fuel tank is connected to the charcoal canister through the P/V solenoid and it absorbs the vented gas fumes from the tank. When the vehicle is on and at speed the solenoid switches and the charcoal canister is connected to engine vacuum and the vacuum of the engine purges the gas fumes in the charcoal through the engine burning them