Yes, IF the ignition SWITCH was left ON. I suggest charging the battery, and then have it tested at Autozone both of which are free.
any short in the electrical system will have an effect on the charging system
Did you try checking or replacing the battery? Usually clicking when trying to start means dirty battery terminals or a dead battery. That's the first thing to check, before ignition switches, ignition relays, and starters; auto parts stores will check it for free. If it's dirty or corroded terminals, clean them up and try starting again. If it's dead and old, just replace it. It it's a new battery and it's dead, check your charging system (alternator, fuses, belts, etc).
Dead battery, Alternator not charging, Ignition off draw draining battery,.............
It could be solenoid, starter, battery, alternator not CHARGING the battery or corroded battery terminals.
You can tell by clicking on the battery icon: if it's 100%, it's done.
Check your battery.
When the ignition is turned on, battery voltage passes down the wire to the alternator to 'excite' the alternator when the engine starts. When the engine starts and the alternator generates a voltage, the light is extinguised by the charging voltage cancelling out the battery voltage coming down the wire. If and when the alternator completetly fails the the light will come back on as there is no sancelling voltage. if the alternator produces a voltage lower than the voltage from the ignition switch then the battery light will glow.
Could be, a dead battery, dirty/loose battery connections, starter failure, charging system failure,
Check battery, charge it or change it. Dead battery.
Your battery could be discharged enough to not activate solenoid (clicking) If it's that dead, battery may be completely shot or problem with connections. If those look ok, substitute a known good battery to see if will start. If/when does, see if charging -use voltmeter at posts with car off and on-if charging voltage will be higher when running. If charging-buy a battery.
no, the voltage regulater is for charging not the ignition system, it can however drain the battery
typically a clicking noise indicated that you don't have enough power from the battery to turn the starting motor. try cleaning the battery terminals with baking soda and water, then charging the battery. dirty terminals or a dirty battery top will drain the battery causing starting problems.
It shows that your battery is in workable condition and your alternator is charging as it should.
The alternator is not charging the battery, therefore, the coil is getting it's charge only from the battery.
My past experience has been that a "clicking noise" meant that the battery was too discharged to power the starter solenoid much less run the starter motor. You might try charging the battery.
Sounds like a dead battery. Try charging the battery, then start.
Bad battery, corroded battery connectors, weak charging system.
You need to be much more specific on your question. This could be anything from a bad battery, starter, alternator (not charging battery). Or maybe you are just out of gas. Does the engine attempt to turn over? Is there no attempt to turn over, just a clicking sound or no response at all when you turn the ignition key?
A clicking sound when you try to start the car is a dead battery. It may be that the alternator is not charging it properly.
is it in park or neutral if not then will not start....is battery fully charged sometimes new batteries need charging before use....try the ignition relay sometimes they go on the blink....if battery is charged....remove ecu fuse for one minute and put back....this resets your whole setup
if clicking but not starting dead battery if it starts it's one of the many relays that open and close during startup
Battery is dead or you have a bad solenoid. Connections at the solenoid and/or starter could be loose or corroded.
battery light indication means a dead battery or a dead alternater/regulater or a fault in the charging/ignition system
The drive belt is not tensioned. The fuse in the line between the battery and alternator is blown. The battery has a bad cell. The voltage to the alternator field is missing from the regulator or ignition switch circuit.