I currently own a '99 Chevy Traker and had the same problem. We will start by removing the part of dashboard around the cluster. There are two screws just above the steering column, behind the rubber skirt, and two more just above the cluster. Remove those four screws and the dash should pop off with a little muscle. From there, another four screws are holding the cluster in place, one on each corner. remove them and the cluster will come loose. Now, there are three wiring harnesses attached to the back of the cluster, you may be able to work with them still connected but I took the entire cluster inside to work on it (It was cold outside). When looking at the back of the cluster you will see many little black knobs. Each one of these knobs contains a single bulb to light something important in your cluster, so make sure you don't lose any. There should be two sized, large and small. The small ones are for small things like the "open door" light or the famous "check engine" light. The large ones are for your gauge illumination (there should be about 4). Untwist the corresponding black knob a quarter turn and they pop out, swap bulbs and return the knob and bulb to its original hole. Finally, just reverse the removal instructions and "Ta-daa". A dash that lights up. Awsome.
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