Not sure what you mean by rodding the rad., but, if it were cleaned by a rad. shop and given the ok, then, has the water pump been changed, is there a blockage in the system, is there an air lock in the system? To release an air lock, bleed the system by the heater hose with the engine at operating temp. Does it over heat at idle, hiway speed, with the a/c on or off ?
i used to work in a radiator shop back in the day and we put a radiator on a rotating machine and put muric acid in it and let it rotate for some time, then flushed it out and the radiator was totally clean, no more rodding. they were copper then. not sure about todays alum radiators
1- Water Jetting2- Rodding (snaking)3- chemicals
Just about every major city has at least one and usually several shops that specialize in radiator repair. They remove the "caps" or "tanks" of the radiators and run a rod through the small tubes. The process is called "rodding" the radiator. The parts are then dipped in a solvent and cleaned again. The radiator is then re-assembled and you are ready with a radiator that is like new. Some of the newer radiators, with the platic cans are not as suitable for this process. Also, the brass radiators can be soldered if there are leaks, making them somewhat more desirable. But then, some of the newer radiators seem to keep going for a long time, so it's all just a crap-shoot.
A sectional rodding machine is the best bet.
Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles - 1987 Hot-Rodding Teenagers from Dimension X 1-4 was released on: USA: 17 December 1987
For cleaning out a blocked drain. The far end of the rodding system used to be shaped in a small fully formed loop - hence the imagined eye shape. This shape meant it could be moved in both directions without much chance of it getting hooked up.
Anything will fit any car, anytime. That is hot rodding.
Newly placed concrete will often have air pockets in it. Rodding it or vibrating it will cause the concrete to settle, or consolidate, better.
Depends on the type of stoppage, hair, soap scum. Normally simply snaking (rodding) the line with a 1/4" snake will do the job NEVER EVER use chemicals In addition, i concur about the chemicals, another option in addition to rodding would be to use a plunger, but this does depend on the type of blockage at hand
There is a website called Street Rodding where you can find them for sale. You can also look in the classified news section of your daily newspaper for listings.
That would depend on the stoppage type water Jetting soft stoppages such as sand /silt grease and rodding for hard stoppages such roots
There are numerous reasons for overheating. Anything from incorrect timing to holes in hoses or a combination of things. Here are some things you might check that cost very little: Inspect all your radiator/heater hoses and clamps. A miniscule pinhole can leak coolant at a surprising rate when the tempurature/pressure rises. Pressure test your radiator coolant tank cap. Look for tell-tale puddles of coolant on the engine or on the ground. Especially after a warm engine has had time to sit for a while. Then follow the drips back to where they came from. Make sure your using the right Octance rated fuel. Other things you can do that will cost you money are: If your using the right fuel and you hear any knocking or Pinging upon accelleration, have the timing checked. It's probably time for a tune-up. One of the biggest problems I've found is a gradual clogging of the radiator cores that cuts down the flow of coolant and raises the temperature. As few as 4-6 veins of the radiator being clogged (Usually at the bottom of the radiator where you cant' see it) will cause overheating in a Disco. So a GOOD rodding of the Radiator is a good start. This may continue on through the heater core and also cause the thermostat to stick. The entire system needs a good cleaning too, not just a cursory chemical flushing though. You need to flush the system and get all the gunk out. Have a compression test done to make sure you don't have a head gasket problem.