I would check the headlamp dimmer ; it is possibly fried.
Could be the speed sensor or another common problem with neons is broken solder points on the instrument cluster circuit board. To test it, see if your cruise control can keep you at speed. If so, it's the instrument cluster. If not could be the speed sensor. If you don't have cruise, then you may have to inspect the cluster for broken solder points.
It could be a couple of things. Depending on the type of cluster it could be a couple of burnt out light bulbs (easy and cheap fix). Also, it could be that your cluster is dying (expensive fix). If this is the problem try a place through the internet called Mr Whizard, they rebuild instrument clusters ($200 - $300) verses a new cluster ($1000+).
Difficult one this,can only take a guess.There may be a break in the instrument cluster printed circuit so that there is no 12v feed to the guages,then when lights are on the power to the panel lamps is starting the gauges up. Also,there could be a damaged/bent connector on the instrument multi-plug giving the same result.
The headlamp switch on the windstar does not actually switch the lamps. It is a signal input to the instrument cluster computer. The cluster module actually controls all lights individually. It sounds as if there may be a problem in the instrument cluster. This could be a bad module or simply a corrupted program. It will probably need a mechanic with a diagnostic computer and the programming skills to understand what it is telling him / her. Carl
On your dash, to the right of the headlight switch, is a dimmer wheel switch for your dash lights. Check to make sure that hasn't been rotated all the way down. The owner"s manual lists the following fuses in the fuse panel on the driver's end of the dash ( visible with driver's door open) in location # 11 - 7.5 amp - instrument cluster in location # 15 - 7.5 amp - instrument cluster in location # 33 - 15 amp - instrument cluster/DRL module/headlamps or bulbs no good.
Tough to say. Cadillacs typically have a dimmer switch located to the left of the steering column on the dash. A positive wire goes from the fuse box to the switch, then another wire goes from the switch up to the instrument cluster. You might try disconnecting the instrument cluster and see if the fuse still blows when you turn on the lights. If so, it might mean a wire is shorting to ground somewhere between the fuse and the instrument cluster. If not, it might mean there's a short somewhere in the instrument cluster assembly. Nothing much to do except follow wires and look for any fouling or damage that might be the cause. Also, miss-matched after market lights installed in the instrument panel might be pulling more amps than what was originally intended by OEM design. That could blow the fuse as well. Good luck.
DCl stands for data communication line.it tells you that there is no communication to the instrument cluster from the computer.The main problem is that there is a fault in the instrument cluster causing the DCL light to stay on and sometimes the oil pressure gauge could go bad also.you can have it repaired at a few speedometer shops just look them up online.
This problem could be caused by an intermittent short in the wiring, an intermittent open circuit in the wiring, a fault in the internal wiring of the instrument cluster, or a fault with the light switch. Find out wich wire ( color coded in repair manual ) runs the dash lights and follow it with your hand to the light switch. Look for missing insulation that could be shorting against a piece of grounded metal. If you feel a section of wire that feels like the copper inside is broken it is an intermittent open circuit. If you don't find these to be the problem remove the harness from the light switch and jump the dash wire from the power wire and see if the lights still flicker. If they work properly the fault is in the light switch. If not your problem lies in your instrument cluster.
I'm just making a guess here. There is a instrument panel dimmer switch on the multi-function lever on the left side of the steering wheel. This lever incluces turn signal, head lights, parking lights, hi/low beam, instrument panel dimmer, dome lights, and maybe some other stuff. One you figure out how to activate the dome/courtesy lamps, just back that part of the switch off one click and that is the maximum dashlight level setting.
No, there is no reset light. The light comes on when the system is not working correctly. If the charging system is working perfectly then the light should be off. Possibly it is working, but not working at it's optimum level, which would be around 13.5-14 volts.AnswerNo there is no "reset" for that. Unfortunately, there also is no easy answer to your problem. The reason is that the instrument cluster on that vehicle is a computer module that uses information it receives from the vehicle's data comunication network to make decisions about what readings to give, such as speedometer, and tachometer, and what warning lights to turn on, such as seatbelt, and battery charge lights. The instrument cluster is making a decision to turn on the battery light. either due to information it is receiving from the network, or an internal problem with the computer circuitry in the cluster itself. The cluster is also non-servicable, meaning that if there is a problem in the cluster, the entire unit must be replaced as an assembly, and is only avaiable through the dealer. A used one should not be used, due to the many different programming configurations that are out there. One from another vehicle may not work due to incompatability with other computer modules in the vehicle's network.There could be information that the cluster is receiving, that is causing it to make the decision to turn on the light. The charging system may not be behaving as it should, or the instrument cluster could be a receiving a false report from another module in the system, that is causing it to decide to turn the light on.
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