VENT TO HEATER CORE IS NOT CLOSING................
This would indicate that the system is low on coolant when the gauge is hot. Not enough coolant to service the heater core.
NO! 100-120F setting normal. 140F can cause accidental scalding.
Possibly a faulty coolant pump.
No. You may be leaking engine coolant from the heater core or leaking refrigerant oil from the AC evaporator.
Drain radiator RE-fill slowly to prevent and "air lock" Run vehicle to normal operating temperature with heater on Check coolant level
If the coolant level is okay, I would suspect a restricted heater core. Try flushing the heater core.
Low coolant? Thermostat not closing allowing engine temperature to get to normal operating range? System air bound? Heater core plugged or restricted? Water pump not circulating coolant?
Open drain plug at lower end of radiator Run engine to Normal operating temperature with heater on -no higher When draining stops -- close drain plug Refill radiator slowly to prevent system from becoming "airbound" Start vehicle - bring up to normal operating temperature with heater and re-check coolant level
It is possible a little low on coolant and has an air bubble in the heater core.
No, I would suspect a stuck open thermostat, a failing (worn) water pump or clogged heater core. Also chedk for a sticking heater control valve in the coolant circuit if fitted. It could also be a internally swelled heater hose from the block to the heater core blocking proper coolant flow..
Pour mix of 50/50 coolant and water into the reservoir until it's at the cold level. Close the cap and start the engine with the heater on to the highest setting. Wait till the engine reaches normal operating temperature then turn it off. Wait till engine cools and check the coolant level and add more coolant as needed to bring it up to the cold level.
If you are not getting heated air blowing from the heater core and your engine coolant temperature gauge is showing LOW or below normal , ( then YES , IT'S POSSIBLE that your engine cooling thermostat is sticking open )
If this dodge van is an Xplorer You have a larger than normal coolant capacity as the coolant is used to heat water in your water heater for more. Xplorer Owners Club at Yahoo Groups .com
If you are running the A/C then this is normal and is just condensation from the A/C unit. If you are not running the A/C then it may be coolant. If your coolant is low then check for a leak at the connections for the heater hoses going inside the car.
It weakens the effect of the coolant.
Over time the coolant system can build up from minerals in the coolant, this in turn can cause blockages or thinner walls within the coolant lines. The lines are primarily aluminum within the radiator and heater core which can corrode adding to the problem. When this happens not as much coolant is flowing throught the heater core and therefore not as much heat blows out the heater. Worse case scenerio is that the heater core is blocked so bad that you may need to replace it. Best case scenerio is that you need to buy a coolant system flush kit and follow the directions to flush out the system. another scenerio is that thermostat is not opening up enough to let the maximum amount of coolant to pass through. I would recommend that if the vehicle is running hotter than normal, then you may need to change the thermostat.
The normal direction of circulation in the coolant system would push the coolant out the thermostat opening.
Check and make sure your not low on coolant. The last place in your cooling system will be the heater core so if you are low on coolant then you will have no no heat even if your operating temp is normal and everything is operating properly. If you have AC, you will also have a heater control valve that turns off the water flow when the AC is working so it won't have to compete with the heater. These valves use vacuum and if it is corroded inside, it may not open to allow the hot water to enter the heater hence no heat.
With engine coldDrain coolant from radiatorRemove hose clamps on defective hoseRemove defective hose and replaceRe-fill coolant slowly to prevent an air lockStart engine and look for leaksRun engine to normal operating temperature with heater onRe-check coolant level
Cooling fan should come on either when coolant temperature reaches 235 degrees or the A/C or defroster is turned on
Drain radiatorRe-fill with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and waterRE-fill slowly to prevent an air lockRun vehicle to normal operating temperature with heater on and recheck coolant level
Normal causes are low coolant and an inoperative radiator fan.Normal causes are low coolant and an inoperative radiator fan.
1) Low coolant level 2) Thermostat not closing allowing engine to achieve normal operating temperature 3) Plugged heater core 4) "Kinked" heater hoses 5) Water pump not circulating coolant 6) Defective heater control unit or cable 7) System "air bound" 8) Defective radiator cap
Drain about 1 gallon of coolant from radiator Follow upper radiator hose to engine Disconnect housing Note how thermostat is installed Clean both surfaces Replace thermostat and gasket Re-fill coolant slowly to prevent "airlock" Start engine-look for leaks Run engine to normal operating temperature with heater on Check coolant level Drain about 1 gallon of coolant from radiator Follow upper radiator hose to engine Disconnect housing Note how thermostat is installed Clean both surfaces Replace thermostat and gasket Re-fill coolant slowly to prevent "airlock" Start engine-look for leaks Run engine to normal operating temperature with heater on Check coolant level