Directions for Bonding Polyethylene using a poly-bonder.
1. Fit a propane torch with a flame spreader.
2. Following the operating cautions of the propane torch, ignite the flame.
3. Observe the flame in a darkened room, noting the primary (bright blue) and secondary (faint yellow) portions of the flame.
4. Adjust the flame so that the primary flame is contained within the spreader, and the secondary flame is 1-1/2" beyond the spreader.
5. Treat the polyethylene to be bonded with the tip of the secondary flame by passing it over the polyethylene in 5 gentle strokes. Total exposure to the flame should be 2-3 seconds (.5 seconds per stroke). This light exposure should not deform or melt the polyethylene in any way.
6. Test the polyethylene for bond readiness by wetting it with water. If the water runs off immediately, the treatment was not effective. If the water sheets-up on the surface, the surface is ready for bonding. If unsure, compare the water's action on the treated area with an untreated area.
7. Bond joints within 1 hour after treating. Always prepare test bonds to be certain that flame treating is effective with your material. By using the method for preparing a glue joint of Polyehtylene as described below, it has been established through shear testing by the manufacturer that structural bonds nearly exceeding the strength of the polyethylene can be achieved. Those bonds registered 1,950 Psi in lap shear testing of HDPE.
To achieve similar results, be sure to follow the next three steps:
1. Leave room for the glue. Don't squeeze all of the glue out of the joint when clamping, if you do, the bond will fail. Instead, cut small bits of fishing line and drop them into the glue before clamping.
2. Clean and roughen the parts. Rough parts hold much more glue and form mini-shear joints. Always apply glue to bond pieces to be bonded to properly wet the surfaces.
3. Mix the glue thoroughly. This glue appears to be mixed almost instantly, but requires at least two minutes of mixing.
Clear 100% silicone.
An epoxy would be good.
100% clear silicone is the only thing that will do it successfully.
Silicone works well.
Why, are you gluing your tongue to something. If not, keep all glues out of it.
Polycarbonate adhesive, -Weld-On #3 or #16
It depends where the lino is. If it is a trailer, yes, use glue. Lots of glue.If its in your house, I think gluing around the edges is a good idea, if not the whole thing.ANS 2 -The location doesn't matter. If it's good quality thick lino it will not need gluing . If it's cheap thin lino then it must be glued with a good vinyl glue.
If the granite is rough where you are gluing it then thin set concrete is good. If granite is smooth, I would use PL200.
LePage Extereme and PL9000, both claim to be good for that purpose.
It's OK if there is no strain on the piece. I would notuse it on stem of a wine glass for instance.
Epoxy is good for gluing any stone. Just make sure the 2 pieces are dust free for good adhesion.
JB Weld provides a Med strength Bond a long full cure time but proves a very solid bond this would unsuitable for joints that will take alot of stress. Epoxy even when both sides are sanded can some lose if the joint is struck. There is a Aviation Glue you can get from a specialst supplier that is extremely good but also quite expensive but provides a very soild seamless join.