220 3m its a finer sand paper you can take the paint as low as you want with it it works great. You should always prime over a 220 grit scratch. It is the perfect size grit. If you are sanding primer so you can apply topcoat, finish with 400grit dry on a machine (DA) or 500 wet sand for a solid color enamel. Basecoat products, particularly metallics and pearls, need to be applied over a substrate that has been wet sanded with 600 grit.
Take a piece of sandpaper and rip it to a size that will fit comfortably in your hand. fold it in half to get a better grip in it. If you are sanding corners, place the sandpaper in your hand such that the corner on the wood rests on the inside of your thumb with the sandpaper between. Run the sandpaper back and forth on the corner until the corner is sanded to the desired look. To sand a surface, either use a sandpaper block, or take a piece of sandpaper roughly twice the size of your palm, for it in half and run it on the wood in straight motions that go with the grain of the wood, with your hand, until the wood is the desired thickness. If by your question you meant "What grade sandpaper should I use on wood," the answer depend on what you want to do. To remove a lot of wood fast, use 60 or 70 grit sandpaper. For the final light shaping use 100 or 120, and to produce a perfect finish at the end use 220 or 240 grit.
There is only one kind of basic drywall primer. -In a bathroom, it's the final finish that counts
Degrease it first, then paint with a rust-proof primer before your final paint.
Yes, but you should use a good thick primer first, then sand it, then another primer to make it look good before your final paint coat.
absolutely not. if you use a sanding sealer before you stain, then there isn't any wood fibers for the stain to absorb into. that will leave you with a smeary stained surface. apply stain the sanding sealer to seal in the stain and prevent it from bleeding to the final finish.
What kind of finish are you using?
You make sure your surface is clean and dry then roll the primer on. I prefer to use a heavy body primer like Kilz then I don't have to re-coat. One coat of a good primer does it all. Paying a little extra for a good primer can save you lots in the final paint.
This depends in large part on what paint or finish your are going to cover your oil-finish with. First, you need to determine, if possible, if your existing oil paint contains lead. If the oil paint is over 30 years old, you should assume that it has lead and the paint should be removed before continuing. (See your local codes). If you are painting the surface with an oil-based paint, simply rough up your surface with 220-grit sandpaper, clean and paint away. If you are covering your finish with latex, you should scuff the finish with 220-grit sandpaper, clean it well and apply two coats of latex primer before applying your final coats of paint. If you are applying wallpaper, we suggest that you scuff up your oil finish, apply two coats of latex primer and allow it to dry for at least 3 days before papering.
If your working on a car. This is the final step if you did body work on a car befor painting
You don't specify on what material you are using the primer on.In either case primer is paint that is made to seal and bond to the material you are painting, which in turn helps the regulat paint to bond. You CAN use primer as a final coat but the primer won't give you the hardness that a paint will or the shine, but there is no reason that you can't use it. Depends on the look you want. Hope this helps
You tape the seams with either paper or fibre tape and then apply mud as smoothly as you can to cover the tape and leave a surface level with the board. At this first application mud is applied after mixing it smooth and put on with an 8 or 12 inch metal spreader. In about 3 days it will have dried enough for a first sanding. After this first sanding, more mud will be applied in the depressions and valleys. About 2-3 days later the second and possibly final sanding will take place. The aim is to see no difference between the places where seams are and the rest of the board. The slightest imperfection you can see at this stage will look far worse under primer.
You tape the seams with either paper or fibre tape and then apply mud as smoothly as you can to cover the tape and leave a surface level with the board. At this first application mud is applied after mixing it smooth and put on with an 8 or 12 inch metal spreader. In about 3 days it will have dried enough for a first sanding. After this first sanding, more mud will be applied in the depressions and valleys. About 2-3 days later the second and possibly final sanding will take place. The aim is to see no difference between the places where seams are and the rest of the board. The slightest imperfection you can see at this stage will look far worse under primer.