Diagram of what?
Manual. Get one.
When your diaghram contracts at a fast rate. You get fatigued
First check fuses then check a diaghram under the battery. Remove the tray and check the diaghram, It may have a rip in it. If that were the case, it would not shift to 4WD. The rubber gets brittle.
i need to know where the timing marks should be on a 93 sporster .
contractions of the diaghram, your breathing apparatus, push on the intenstines and can force out gas trapped in the colon.
If you will go to most of the autoparts places such as Advance they have it in a book and most of the time on their computers as well. There is a diaghram on the radiator support.
There is books in every public library with all the diagrams you need. Try Chilton or Hayes or OEM books in library
You can view the 2002 Ford Mustang Owner Guide ( which includes the fuse diagram ) online at : www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces ) click on Owner Guides
You can view the 1996 Ford Explorer owners manual online * at : www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces ) Click on Owner Guides ( the fuse section starts on page 381 , it has the diagrams and lists ) *still , as of July 27 , 2013
Door in vent box is not opening for the drivers side. Probably a bad vacuum line to the diaghram. If there is not a separate door than single door is not opening all the way. Also check for obstruction in the vent
more likely its starving for fuel ,rather than flooding, if it's bogging, it could be a misadjusted float ot a clogged jet in carb , if it has a diaghram actuated slide it could be torn, also a faulty spark plug or weak ignotion could be worth looking at
Those are for your vacuum lines.You will need rubber hose for them..If you have power brakes,One goes to the brake booster. One is for vaccuumm diaghram on auto trans and on is to vaccuum canister. unused ones can be plugged off.
THERES TWO 1 BY BATTERY ONLY HOLDS MAIN FUSES 2 INSIDE DOWN BY DRIVERS KNEE BETWEEN STEERING COLUMN & DOOR POST UNDER PLASTIC FLAP COVER its very hard to see fuse number moulded in to fuse block but diaghram is printed on inside of cover cheers for now
Absolutely. The oil pressure sensor is bolted into the block typically very near the oil filter and is made partially of plastic. If this should break you can have a fairly heavy oil leak. The good news is that the part is inexpensive and just screws into the block with the sensor wire plugged in.
The adult human liver normally weighs between 1.4 - 1.6 kilograms (3.1 - 3.5 pounds), and it is a soft, pinkish-brown boomerang shaped" organ. It is the second largest organ (the largest organ being the skin) and the largest gland within the human body. It is located on the right side of the upper abdomen below the diaghram. The liver lies to the right of the stomach.12.5
There should be a diaghram, showing belt routing, under the hood - sometimes on the hood itself, sometimes on the metal/plastic obove and to to both sides of the radiator. If factory decals are missing, auto parts businesses will have repair manuals for sale that include routing diaghrams - if you can remember just by looking, an unwrapped book can be looked at for free...
It sounds like you have a vacuum leak somewhere in your system. Probably in a hose somewhere. purchase a vacuum squeeze pump from an auto parts store or mid america. Connect straight to your headlight diaghram. Onec you squeeze the light open it shoul remain open. If not you need to replace the diaphram.Mid America has a book on the wiper and vacuum system for these vettes that is excellent. i suggest you go ahead and buy some new check valves that the book describes. I had problems and followed these procedures and for less than 200 bucks my light have been working great for ten years.Mid America's website is madvett.com.
Hi. There are two possibilities causing this problem,if your car is A/C equipped,there is usually a diverter door that is operated by a vacuum motor or diaghram,vacuum is switched by heater or A/C control,another possibility is outside air is usually ducted in from an opening under the lowest part of windshield,make sure this is not blocked,last,on vehicles with high milage,gum from antifreeze lines heater core passages causing little or no heat exchange,more than 90% of the time this is cured by disconnecting both input and output water hoses from heater core and using an air gun giving a good air blast to water ducts,if this does not work make sure engine water temp is adquate,a motor block reverse flush may be necessary,Good Luck.
no need for a diagram, there a a few steps to make sure your engine is spot on when you re-install the dist, or if you just tangle the wires replacing them. I'll just tell you how to set the wires up, assuming the distributor wasn't removed, or moved at all, point the closed rotor cap #1 cylinder pole, some caps are marked, some aren't, assuming you have an idea where this is, point the # 1 cylinder post with wire if it's connected, directly at #1 cylinder itself, if you didn't remove the cap, it should already be pointed this way. In that engine #1 cylinder is located with you facing the engine, first plug front side right. after that the the firing order is followed from #1 cylinder on the cap, order is 18436572 clockwise on the cap. oh yea, even #'s cylinders are on the left side of your engine, 2-4-6-8, facing the engine. odd #'s are on the right, 1-3-5-7 respectively, facing the engine of course :) jr
All depends on the make and model of the car... But, most vehicles have the thermostat located where the top radiator hose is connected to the engine. There will a fitting bolted to the engine, and the top radiator hose connects to the top of it. The theromostat in inside of it... Since you didn't specify, this is for most American vehicles - the foreign cars and some of the new domestic cars can be different... Once you find the thermostat housing, usually held on by two bolts, it is a simple matter of draining some about a 1/2 gallon of coolant out, removing the thermostat housing, removing the thermostat and old gasket, cleaning the gasket surfaces, installing the new thermostat and gasket, and bolting the housing back on, and refilling the radiator with fresh coolant... Of course, before you start doing any work on the engine, you need to let it cool - near boiling coolant is bad news! Have the parts bought prior to starting to work on the car, so the motor/coolant stays cool. Also, it is easier to clean the gasket surfaces if you remove the top radiator hose from the thermostat housing, and replace when the thermostat installion is complete... The thermostat housing will have a diaghram of which way the thermostat needs to face, and where the gasket goes - BUT pay attention to how it is installed when taking it apart - much easier than trying to figure out which way it goes later... Good luck...
Terms to know to make this explanation easier to understand.Main Jet: Controls the amount of fuel that enters the Main Well of the metering block.Main Well: The passage that carries fuel from the jets to the Boosters.Booster: The ring that is visible when looking down the throttle bore.Power Valve: A vacuum operated device that controls the activation of the power valve system (more on this later).Power Valve Channel Restrictions (PVCRs from now on): Two small holes, one for each Main Well, that act like jets to control the amount of fuel delivered from the Power Valve System.First let's start with the Power Valve itself.A Power Valve is little more than a vacuum operated on/off switch for fuel. It operates using a vacuum diaghram and a spring, which determines when the valve opens. I believe this is best explained using an example. Let's use an engine that makes 13" manifold vacuum at idle, a typical lightly modified performer. Knowing that value, we know that a 6.5" rated power valve would be used (typical power valve selection is 1/2 the amount of vacuum at idle, in our case 13/2=6.5). So, during idle and light cruising (above 6.5" vacuum) the power valve will be in the closed position ("off"), but during moderate to full throttle operation the vacuum will drop to below 6.5" and will cause the valve to be open ("on"). The power valve itself doesn't control the amount of fuel delivered, that's the PVCR's job.Now to the Power Valve System (PVS from now on).The easiest way to explain the PVS is that it functions like a vacuum actuated set of jets built inside the metering block. What this means is that when the power valve is activated ("on") it will allow fuel to flow through the PVCRs into each main well (one for each main jet), on it's way to the boosters, thus making the fuel mixture "richer". This system is one of the reasons Holley carburetors are so tuneable. It allows the carb to be jetted for maximum economy / driveability, while at the same time making it possible to tune for full throttle performance without having to rely soley on the secondaries. Remember the PVCRs control the amount of fuel delivered, not the power valve.Why does the carburetor need a PVS?It all comes down to economy vs driveability vs performance. For the sake of simplicity, I'll leave out the secondary system and focus solely on the primary side. If there were no PVS, all of the fuel required would need to be delivered by the main jets. This is a problem because as engine vacuum decreases the need far a larger jet arises since the booster signal weakens. What this means is that if a carburetor was jetted for idle / cruising situations, the moderate / full throttle performance would suffer, and be too lean. On the other hand, if the carburetor was jetted for maximum full throttle performance it would run too rich at idle / cruise, since the higher vacuum draws a stronger signal. The PVS was designed to combat this very problem, and does it very well.Removing (blocking) the Power Valve from the secondary block.This is something that is very common practice among racers. The reason it works in the secondaries and not in the primary is because you never use the secondary circuit while just idling or cruising around, so the problem listed above doesn't exist. Just remember that if the secondary power valve is removed (blocked) the jets must be increased to compensate of the lack of fuel. Usually an increase anywhere from 6-10 sizes is needed, depending on PVCR size and carburetor cfm.I didn't expect to write so much but I hope this gives a good general understanding of how the system works and why it's needed.