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2011-09-14 08:48:51
2011-09-14 08:48:51

I know you may think I'm wack, but you didn't mention brake fluid?

Just and idea AnswerNot sure of the question here but are you saying the brakes are soft and you can't get a resistance to your applying the brakes? Is this power brakes/ The vacume hoses may be bad. or the power assist chamber. Just and idea AnswerNot sure of the question here but are you saying the brakes are soft and you can't get a resistance to your applying the brakes? Is this power brakes/ The vacume hoses may be bad. or the power assist chamber. A couple more ideas...Power brakes were standard equipment on the 1964 Bird. If your brakes just aren't working period, you've either got a fluid leak somewhere in the system or you need to bleed further...start by bleeding the master cylinder. Easiest way to do this is to take it off the car and "bench bleed" it. Put vinyl tubing into the ports where you would hook the brake lines up, then run the vinyl tubing back into the fluid reservoir. Main thing is to keep the reservoir full, or your bleed will be for nothing...the minute it sucks air, your back at square one. With the master clamped (gently) in a vise, actuate the master by pressing the piston in and then releasing it...until you don't see bubbles in the vinyl tubing. Leave the fluid in the reservoir after you're done bench bleeding; then install it back in the car (taking care not to spill any fluid..especially on the paint!), connect the brake lines, and finish bleeding the rest of the system. Not a bad idea to make sure the adjustment is correct on the rod between the booster and the master before you reinstall it. That can cause the brakes to be ineffective too.

Check your flex lines too...make sure they're not bulging when you press the pedal down. That'll cause the brakes not to work for sure. You mentioned that all the lines are new, but there are rubber flex lines....especially the one just forward of the rear axle. If they're weak or leaking, that could cause a low or no brake condition.

If the brakes work fine, but just seems like the pedal is too soft...or even too touchy, look at the brake booster, vacuum lines to the booster, and the vacuum connections on the booster. A bad booster can make the brakes feel too touchy or soft. These are just ideas from things I've run into on my own 64.

One more thing, make sure you keep your rear brake linings up to snuff and your emergency brake adjusted; if your master goes bad or your brake fluid gets too low, the brakes are gone completely...and you'll have to use the emergency brake to stop the car. Hope this helps.


Related Questions

on the master cylinder in the engine compartment

At least the slave cylinder. The clutch master cylinder can be replaced at any time.

Master Brake cylinder replaced and lines bled-how long?

after the clutch master cylinder has been replaced.

The Slave Cylinder and the Master Cylinder control totally different systems. The Slave has to do with the clutch, and the Master has to do with the brakes. They have nothing in common.

Master cylinder empty (no brake fluid) Leak in brake line or wheel cylinder Defective master cylinder

The clutch master cylinder on a Chevy S10 is replaced by disconnecting the metal lines, unscrewing the retaining bolts, and removing it from the housing. A new master cylinder can then be put into place and reattached.

did you bleed it? try raising it from the differential to get a good bleed on your clutch. and if that doesn't work make sure the rod from the pedal to the actual master cylinder is screwed on. if it isn't, ur jsut kicking a pedal.

It means your master cylinder needs to be replaced or rebuilt. The seals inside the cylinder can go bad and cause this to happen.

They don't really break. The internal seals deteriorate and fail. This results in the master cylinder not holding pressure. The repair is to replace it.

Sounds like you may have moisture in the brake fluid. Have your brake fluid totally replaced. Your master cylinder may also be failing. Hold steady pressure on the brake pedal. If it very slowly goes down replace the master cylinder.

you need to take off the master cylinder and the accumulator and replace it with a master cylinder from a non antilock vehicle like a thunderbird or cougar from about 1985 to 1988.

The brake master cylinder has nothing to do with the way the car runs. It certainly wouldn't cause it to stall.....Maybe the brake booster?

The primary difference between a master and a slave cylinder is which one make the other one work. We operate the master cylinder to make the slave cylinder work. The master cylinder on a hydraulic clutch is actuated by pushing on the clutch pedal. The hydraulic pressure then makes the clutch slave cylinder move and it pushes out to give the throw-out arm a shove. This will disengage the clutch from the flywheel (by actuating the pressure plate). the master cylinder is on the fire wall its the main one, when you push on the brake pedal down it pushes on a rod in the master sylinder. the wheel cylinders (slave) are on the dram drums. they push the brake shoes to the drum

You ONLY lose brake pressure if you have a leak somewhere ! - This can be in any wheel cylinder , the master cylinder, or a fractured brake line. Till you find the leak, keep your master cylinder topped up daily.If the brake fluid reservoir remains full and the brake pedal sinks to the floor as you are waiting at a stop light, the master cylinder is at fault.

If a pressure type brake fluid dispenser is available attach it to the top of the master cylinder. Other wise fill the master cylinder, start with the wheel cylinder that is furthermost from the master, and bleed until fluid comes out clean and free from bubbles. make sure to replenish the the master cylinder as needed. then proceed to the next farther wheel cylinder and repeat with the rest of the wheel cylinders. top off the master cylinder. Test with the engine off then with the engine running before driving.

Look for switch either at top of brake pedal under dash area or at master cylinder

Air in system? Remove and bench bleed master cylinder Bleed lines and calipers

Whenever you are having a problem with the clutch disengaging the engine from the transmission it is advisable to bleed the clutch slave cylinder. If the clutch can't be operated by bleeding the slave cylinder then the clutch master cylinder is gone and should be replaced.

Normally it means the master cylinder has failed and needs replacing. It can also be a leak in the system or the master cylinder is extremely low of brake fluid.

leaking brake line or master cylinder..? It sounds like a bad master cylinder. Years ago these could be re-built, but with the newer ones, they must be replaced. By pumping the brakes, you build up pressure which prevents the piston in they master cylinder from leaking, cut after sitting, the seals leak again. A good mechanic will be able to tell if it is the master cylinder or not.

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