Spark Plugs and Wires
Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer
Ford Expedition XLT

What is the easiest way to replace spark plugs on a 2001 Ford Expedition with coil on plug ignition?


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2015-07-14 15:54:22
2015-07-14 15:54:22
I changed all the coils and plugs (110000 miles) on a 2001 expedition - sputtering went away. Have patience. I had to remove the battery so I could unbolt some wiring mechanics attached to the firewall to give me more room on the passenger side. All in all I only used a small socket to get the job done. 5 hours but this is being careful.

Well worth the effort if you buy from eBay - $85 for all 8 coils vs. $850 from the dealer.

Unfortunately, the is that there is no easy way. Ford went to having the coil and plug over each plug, making it very difficult to just change a plug. I just changed a bad one in my F-150, so I can walk you through most of it. Mine was cylinder 5 (drivers front).

First, you need to take all the stuff out of the way. I take off the top shield (the one that says Triton 4.6) (10mm nuts). Then, the air cleaner hose is disconnected to give a bit of room. I then take of the plate that holds the power steering reseviour (8mm bolts) (note: Make sure you open the bracket holding the accel linkage that is mounted to the plate before taking it off). There are 3 bolts holding the plate on.

For each cylinder, there will be different stuff in the way. Just be careful how you take it all out. The shiney tube that runs down each side and ends in a "plug" in wach cylinder is the fuel supply for the injectors. You really don't want to mess with that (on mine, the injectors were orange). If you can't work around these, take it to someone who can.

So, now we are down to the coil. The coil looks like an inch tall barrel, attached with one bolt on one of the sides (7mm). That bolt is fairly long, and you will probably need a socket extention to reach it. Once the bolt is out, pull up on the coil. All of a sudden, you see that it is actually about 6 inches long because it goes way down to the spark plug.

Now, hear are a couple of important parts. Make sure the engine is cool. Before you take the plug out, blow some compressed air into the hole (block your eyes, as stuff will fly out of there. Take a flashlight, and look down into the hole to make sure there is no debris hanging out in there. It is really important to have it clean before opening the cylinder (which is really what you are doing.

Now, you are ready to remove the plug. Have a plug socket with the rubber insert (it holds the plug). Also, have a LOCKING socket extention. That way, when you pull it out, it can't fall off and cause you all kinds of problems.

So, with our locking extention (I use a 10" and a 3" combined to give myself room), you are ready to unscrew the plug. Push the wrench down on it, and unscrew it like anything else. Once it is moving, it will come out pretty easy.

Take the new plug, gap it, and insert it into the socket so the sides catch. Put it in nice and straight. It should go in fairly easy. So not force it. If it is hard to turn, back it out and try again. Any messup here will be quite expensive to fix. Once it is finger tight, give it a fairly good twist (not too much) with the socket wrench.

Now, the annoying part, putting the coil back in. I have found that you can't just jam them in and expect them to work. You have to be really careful that the bottom of the coil connections go over the top of the spark plug. If you are right over it with a flashlight, you can line it up well and send it home.

Once it is down, just work it around a bit (twisting) to get it to go in all the way. Then, bolt it back down with the 7mm bolt.

Then, put everything back together. Don't forget to put the accel linkage back into the clip.

Take it for a test run, and smile as you just did it yourself.



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