Assuming the broken club is a driver, the area on the shaft just above the hosel impacts at a teed up ball rather than the club face. The stationary weight of a Golf ball is sufficient to strain the tensile strength of a graphite shaft. With a club head attached at the very end of the club, it further increases the momentum of a downswing. This is mostly caused by addressing the ball too close to the body and an incorrect swing plane going back. For an iron, a breakage could be mainly caused by hitting the toe of the club into a relatively hard surface in the down swing. This usually happens to a graphite shafted game improvement iron. The reason being that game improvement irons have larger and wider club face area, in which when it is swung at a particular speed with only its toe part hitting the surface, the tensile strength of the shaft at the hosel is at its most vulnerable. This is mostly caused by the use of a non-custom fitted iron where certain compensations (maybe due to shaft length and body height not ideal) in a swing occur. Also may be caused by incorrect swing plane.
Hosel is the the socket (or neck) in the head of a golf club into which the shaft is inserted.
What is the hosel size for Ben Hogan bh5 golf clubs? irons
the serial number is stamped on the hosel of the driver (hard to find, but its there), the serial number for the irons set can be found on the hosel of the 6 iron.
The socket is known as the hosel, it is where the head is connected to the shaft.
The hosel is the part between the club face and ferrule.
This is the width of the bottom of the shaft, where it enters the hosel.
You could, but I wouldn't recommend it. You could use a belt sander to sand it down slightly, but not too much so you'd ruin it. You would honestly be better buying the proper shaft for the hosel.
Generally .370 for irons and .335 for woods these days.
The Hosel (one 's') is the socket or neck in the head of a golf club into which the shaft is inserted.
A tapered shaft is just as strong as a non-tapered (or standard hosel) shaft as long as you are using the flex rating, blade pattern, and lie of the blade that are correct for you and your style of play. If any one or more of those specs are wrong, you will be far more prone to breaking sticks and/or blades since your shot mechanics will be seriously altered by the improperly chosen equipment. As with any mass produced product, you could always end up with the occasional defective shaft that breaks within the first couple of uses. Don't let that deter you or sour you to that particular shaft. Most manufacturers offer a 30 warranty on their shafts and sticks to cover these types on problems. The only real difference between a tapered and non-tapered shaft (other than a few grams of weight) lie in where it is designed to bend when taking a shot (called the kick-point). Most non-tapered shafts are designed to bend around the middle of the shaft (mid flex) while tapered shafts are designed to bend much lower or as close to the bottom end of the shaft as possible. The thinking behind tapered shafts is that a lower kick-point means a harder more accurate shot with a quicker release than standard hosel shafts. Therefore, due to the increased performance, the more a shaft or stick costs, the lower the kick-point.
If the hosel is broken, it's probably not worth fixing. If the shaft has broken, leaving you with a clubhead with a little bit of shaft down in the hosel, it's not a big deal to re-shaft it. A local golf shop can do it, or you can use it as your excuse to explore the wonderful world of clubmaking. Best case there's enough of the broken shaft sticking out so that you can grab it with vise-grips. Heat the hosel with a propane torch until the epoxy bond fails, then twist the broken piece out. If not, you can use a shaft extractor, which is like a screw extractor (a.k.a. an easy-out to get a grip on the shaft, then heat it with a torch as before. Either way, once you get the hosel cleaned out, re-shaft as usual. You can most definitely drill the excess shaft that is broken off in the hosel if that is the case, then if you want, you CAN make an even cut across the old shaft, as low as possible, and use that shaft to reshaft, but that will result in a club up to 2 inches shorter. Regardless, if you do reshaft, find the strongest epoxy you can, because I have been reshafting clubs for a good while and I have given up on the cheap stuff, it just doesn't cut it. (Especially on irons) Your local pro can and will repair the club if it is worth repairing, but don't bother if it's not worth more than $50-$100. You can reshaft yourself by drilling out the old piece of shaft left in the head or heat the shaft/head up to break the old glue bond and pull. Find a local place that sells heads, shafts, etc of try www.golfsmith.com. They have a wealth of information.
hoÂ·seln.The socket or neck in the head of a golf club into which the shaft is inserted.Above retrieved from Answers.comViper1
check the back of the hosel on the 5 iron. It could be very hard to see
All golf clubs are measured in inches. Just a shaft is simply measured top to bottom. When a golf club is assembled, with a head and grip, an iron is measured from the top butt end of the grip to the bottom of the hosel. When a wood is being measured it should be measured to the closest point of the sole to the hosel.
You know Ping Irons are authentic by looking at the hosel. It should have a serial number. Then contact Ping and ask for the specs from the serial number.
The main ones are the face, which is what you hit the ball with. The crown which is the top of the head, where the allignment is and the hosel, which is where the head is connected to the shaft.
Reshafting requires removing the old one and installing a new one. Assuming it's intact, the old shaft can be removed by heating the hosel with a heat gun, or a propane torch if you're really careful. You need to heat the epoxy holding the old shaft to its failure temperature, which is typically somewhat above the boiling point of water. It works best if you can keep a constant force and/or torque on the shaft while heating, so the failure will be observed immediately. If the shaft is broken off, you might be able to grip it with locking pliers. If it's flush with the top of the hosel, something similar to a screw extractor can be used to get a grip on it. Once the old shaft is out, clean up the inside of the hosel. I use sandpaper rolled into a cylinder, and work until it's shiny. Installing the new shaft requires cutting it to length, roughening the tip with coarse sandpaper, coating the tip and the inside of the hosel with suitable epoxy, and assembling. It's usually recommended to knock some bumps into a metal shaft tip, to give the epoxy an uneven surface to hang onto. Graphite shafts need to have the outer coating removed first, since the epoxy won't stick to it. Most heads also require a ferrule, which is installed on the shaft before inserting it into the head. I won't go into the details of shaft trimming; it's too big of a topic. I recommend Dave Tutelman's club design pages to help you decide how long to make it; you'll also need the trimming instructions for your particular shaft.
Purely cosmetic. When the part where the shaft meeting the hosel is exposed it can look rather ugly, and it can also catch on things when being put into your bag again.
Authentic Taylor Made golf clubs have a serial number on the hosel of each wood and on the 5-iron or the 7-iron in each set of irons.
Use an abrasive on shaft and inside hosel, clean with acetone or alcohol, let dry, use 2 part epoxy on shaft and in hosel, join the 2 together, wipe off excess glue, allow to cure 24 hours before using.
Use a high strength two-part epoxy. Fast setting ("five minute") epoxies usually aren't strong enough. On the other hand, it doesn't have to be anything fancy. Ordinary hardware store epoxy works fine. Be sure to clean the inside of the hosel and dimple and abrade the tip, to give the epoxy something to hang onto. There are some fast setting and one-part adhesives that work, too, but be sure it's manufacturer recommends it for golf clubs.
A replacement blade can be put into a tapered shaft as long as the blade has a tapered hosel. A standard hosel blade will not fit into a tapered shaft. The tapered shaft must also actually be a shaft and not a recently broken one-piece stick. Some players try to cut broken blades off of one-piece sticks and then think they can replace the blade in the remaining shaft. This can work in principle but only at the expense of the natural performance of the stick. It is generally not recommended.