D. Tapered Jaw
These are relatively simple devices, the engine rotates and torque is produced by a turning effort (load), the clutch or fluid flywheel transfers this energy into the gearbox which then through gearing increases the effort provided, in other words, the input torque is multipled by the gearing to the output shaft which makes a car accelerate
I know this is an old question but I searched for a few hrs trying to find the answer to this and I saw where some had taken the clutch assembly off which is what I was going to try until I talked to my neighbor, and he just replaced his on his craftsman and it hit me, that's what I need to try... I started off by taking the deck off, then I unplugged the clutch assembly harness, I loosened the small spindle and shield by the clutch assembly, I took off the spring on the tensioner as well as the shield on the 2 tensioner spindles, then I fed the belt on the clutch side spindle first then I fed it in the little metal wire type guide, then in between the fan blades on the rear hydro side and just spun the fan blades slowly to feed the belt down and onto the rear spindle, I then lined it up inside the tensioner spindles and reinstalled the shield and spring then fed it inside the small guide spindle and shield and tightened it down then reconnect the clutch wire harness and your back in business! Hope this helps!
I'm Guessing that your talking about the A/C compressor, in which there are 1 or 2 wires going to the clutch. Disconnecting this wire(or 2) will disable the compressor clutch stopping the compressor from working.
First unplug the wiring connection, then if the pto clutch has been on the mower for a while, remove the bolt from the bottom of the clutch, then spray PB Blaster in the bolt hole & let it sit for about 30 minutes. Make sure the belt has been removed from the upper pulley. Take a 3-Legged puller & attach around the clutch. The clutch may have to be tapped several times with a hammer to get it to move, or let the penetrating spray work longer.
It's possible your clutch starter disable switch is either bad or misadjusted. Get a Haynes manual for the car and follow the directions.
there are only a few places you might have tranny fluid leaks the main ones would be the seals around your axles. there is also a seal on the inside of the transmission right at the base of the clutch spindle. i believe you can get a rebuild kit with the seals in it. good luck
Tech b
The clutch is. Not adjustable.The clutch is. Not adjustable.
The clutch purse is pink, but she forgot to clutch it tightly in her hand.He let up on the clutch quickly so I had to clutch the door handle.
Hello,Here is a simple walk-through on replacing the master cylinder on a '90 CRX:Disconnect the negative battery cable and disable the SRS system (if equipped.) At the top of the clutch pedal, remove the cotter pin and pull the pedal pin out of the yoke.Remove the nuts and bolts holding the clutch master cylinder and remove the cylinder from the engine compartment.Disconnect and plug the hydraulic lines from the master cylinder.Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system.
cable clutch
3hp with 150lbs. rider 25mph. 6hp 35mph with 150lbs rider 120lbs. gocart balloon tires hard geared right with centrifical clutch