Bad starter.. direct ground..... stero equipment IG: amplifier being improperly wired . and it is possible to have the wrong alternator or a faulty one. Bad starter.. direct ground..... stero equipment IG: amplifier being improperly wired . and it is possible to have the wrong alternator or a faulty one.
If its totally dead (no radio, no starter) I would first look at your alternator/battery. This happened to my 2003 Trailblazer, and we had to replace the serpentine belt and the alternator. Battery light came on while driving and within ten minutes, the car was dead.
There could be many reasons as to why this car will not start up. The battery could be drained, the starter, starter solenoid or alternator could be going bad, or there could be an issue within the fuel system.
Battery light usually means alternator not charging. Most common solutions would be be a bad alternator, bad connection, or loose alternator belt. If the battery and alt test ok than check the connections to the alt. You may also have a battery drain (something that is staying on and killing the battery)
D.C. - from a battery kept on recharge from the alternator. The alternator itself, as its name says, produces a.c., but this is fed into a rectifier included within the alternator case.
Check your alternator, that would be the main problem i think because the alternator charges your battery when in use, and with a bad alternator, means that your car is runnin soley off the battery and does not recharge the battery. Look into getting a new alternator. try testing the alternator at a local auto parts store, another test you could do is start the vehicle , and while it is running take off the battery cables, if motor turns off immediatly then your answer is that you have a bad alternator
Bad battery. I'd put money on it.
The ABS light is likely coming on because the voltage being put out by your battery isn't enough to satisfy the requirements of the ABS system. It could be either the battery or the alternator. Put a load test on the battery and make sure that's operating within the requirements, and put a volt meter on the battery after starting the car to see the alternator recharging the battery. I've seen it both ways, alternator is bad and need a new one, or the battery is bad and need a new one.
Yes.Normally, the alternator charges the battery as you drive, and if if doesn't work, the battery never gets charged causing the battery to discharge. A discharged battery will have a short life, and is more likely to freeze in cold weather which ruins the battery completely. Note that an alternator should always be tested hot (within 5 minutes after driving for at least 45 minutes) . A bad alternator with a bad voltage regulator or rectifier diode may test good when cold.In some cases, an alternator may be "bad" because a rectifier diode (internal part like a check valve for electricity) no longer functions. With a bad diode, the alternator can, from time to time, actively discharge the battery when you shut the car off depending on the (effectively random) position at which it stops.
hi I have changed starter on84 351 winsor,car starts and will for days;but within 3 days when I try starting it;the starter only spins,as though it is not engaging with the flywheel.
A short in the car's electrical system, a bad alternator OR a bad battery.
You either have a weak battery that needs replacement or you alternator is defective. Start the engine and check the voltage at the battery with a volt meter. It should read from 13.5-16 volts. Anything less and the alternator needs replacing. If it is reading within that range the battery is defective. Another possibility is a defective battery cable that is swollen or frayed.
where is the starter located on a 95 ls 400 lexus? and what tools a need to change it? underneath the intake, sucks but it can be changed out within a couple hours if you are knowledgeable
generator is dead and cannot produce electricity I disagree with the alternator theory - don't go replace it just yet...check your fuses first as well as the voltage regulator. A car with a bad alternator will start and run if jumped unless the ciruitry within the alternator is an open circuit. And by alternator, I am referring to the generator. I had that happen to me once at a red light, and it was because of my fuel pump. There was water in my fuel. hello, if the car died when the alt light came on the battery is completely discharged due to the alternator malfunctioning. the battery won't jump if it is completely discharged. the best thing to do is to charge the battery and have the alternator checked to make sure it did malfunction. hope this helped. scott The voltage regulater in this car is built into the alternator... A fuse would not have caused the voltage light to come on before it died. It most likely is the voltage regulater which still requires replacing the alternator / generator.... whatever you feel like calling it... :-) ((8))I have the same problem too. People are telling that it is the starter. When I turn the ignition I get a rapid clicking sound.
Good chances are, the alternator is not connected correctly or is defective.
Try replacing the starter. If by low cranking amp you mean the starter is not rotating or is rotating very slowly, there are two possibilities: (1) The battery is not the correct one for your vehicle - you probably need a battery with more amps output. Check at your local auto parts store for the correct battery for your vehicle. (2) The starter is either stuck or "dragging". Dragging is caused by worn bushings, allowing the starter to drag against the armature within the starter, rotating v-e-r-y slowly or not at all. You will definitely hear a grinding or dragging sound as the starter tries to rotate. If the starter does not turn at all, the starter drive may be locked up, or it may be burnt out.
The voltage regulator (which is inside the alternator) on 97 rodeo's are controlled via the PCM/ECM (Power Control Module/Engine Control Module). A remanufactured alternator for the 97 Rodeo as well as the 97 Passport (Honda), usually will fhow failure while tested in car. On the bench test, however, the alternator tests normal. Aside of the normal problems to be ruled out, ie; alternator belt tension, check for loose connections within and around the alternator, try an original factory alternator. Is this problem affecting your blower motor?
Any belt in a car assists in moving all parts within the engine to work in providing power and cooling to vehicle. The alternator provides power to the battery and the fan cools the radiator so the engine will not overheat.
The alternator is in the car for two purposes. One ... to charge the battery. Two ... to run anything and everything electrical within the car when it's running. So basically, the battery is only there to start the car and that's it, the alternator has nothing to do with the starting of the vehicle.If the car won't start, it's probably NOT the alternator. It's a possible problem with the battery or within the starting system. It could be caused by something as simple as making sure the shifter is in the park position all the way. (automatic transmission only of course) If this is an automatic, you can also try placing the car in neutral but MAKE SURE YOU USE THE BRAKES OR PUT THE EMERGENCY BRAKE ON before and while starting it. If it starts in neutral but not in park, it's the neutral safety switch gone bad.If the car is a manual, the clutch safety switch located (usually) above the clutch pedal may be the culprit.Now ... there are many things in the starting system that can go wrong from a fuse, to a starter solenoid, a starter relay, the starter itself, the ignition switch, a bad connection somewhere, a broken wire or a security system within the car. There are other things that can go wrong, but without knowing the year make and model of the vehicle, this is the best I can do for ya. Good Luck!
Dead cell in the battery or something is on pulling power from the battery. Examples are, trunk, under hood, glove box, brake, or dome light. Most likely the alternator is not charging the battery and would cause battery failure within 2 days of driving. A vehicle that sits with a constant drain (not including lights) will take over a week to drain the battery. I am sure the owner of the vehicle would know if the lights were on or not. I beg to differ. If the under-hood, trunk, or glovebox light is on the owner would never know this. If the alternator were not charging the battery the red charging system light would be on, which I am sure the owner could easily see. Not to say the alternator cannot be defective if the light is burnt out. A battery with a dead cell will run down overnight every time. Also a trunk or or other under-hood light can easily run a battery down if it is not a very strong fairly new battery. But a defective alternator is not out of the question as it can be strong enough to not turn on the charging system warning light, but weak enough to not keep the battery fully charged. Easy to check the output of the alternator. If you read 13.5 to 16 volts at the battery posts with the engine running the alternator is more than likely good. Less than that or more than that and the alternator is defective.
you have an unknown drain on the battery. have an automotive electrical shop trace the problem. Depends on how battery is draining. If you charge it with jumpers or charging "device" and it drains quickly, like within a couple hours of use after a full charge, you may have an alternator problem. At the auto shop visit suggested above, have them check your alternator (it creates the energy that the battery stores...no energy generation, the battery then drains what you put in it with a jump or a charging device). Other problem may be bad battery, which can't hold a charge.
Sometimes a weak diode within the alternator can cause this. Your alternator may test out fine but have it checked anyway. I hope this helps you. Mark get your alternator checked out as it sounds to me like its on the way out
This is easy - you can determine the functionality of the alternator in less than 5-minutes. With the engine off, using a volt meter switched to measure DC current, place the red lead against the positive battery terminal/post and the black lead against the negative battery terminal/post and test the voltage. A good battery should measure around 12-volts (a good battery has a range of slightly lower to slightly higher than 12-volts). If you get within this range you have a properly charged battery and can then move to the next step and test the alternator. Turn the engine on and again place the red lead against the positive battery terminal/post and the black lead against the negative battery terminal/post and test the voltage. The alternator is designed to generate enough voltage to replace the 12-volts of power being used by the vehicle's electrical system and charge the battery at the same time. Therefore, a properly working alternator will push about 14-volts of electricity into the system (a properly functioning alternator will generate a range of slightly lower to slightly higher than 14-volts). If the system is generating around 14-volts with the engine running, then you can reasonably conclude that the alternator is working properly. If you you are having battery charging problems (will not hold a charge) and the system is pushing around 14-volts with the engine running, you can then reasonably conclude that the battery needs replacing. If the system is producing less than the normal range of about 14-volts, you may need to replace the alternator. Keep in mind that a good battery may go bad if it is repeatedly used in a system in which the alternator is not working properly. If the systems tests within the normal range of 14-volts while the engine is running, replace only the alternator first and see if the battery then holds a charge. If it doesn't, then you will need to replace the battery also.
EMF or electromotive force, i.e.Voltage, is generated when the magnets inside the alternator turn within the wire coil of the alternator.