It is interesting that you ask this, i have just experienced the same symptoms in my 2000 Rio. i continued to adjust the clutch cable, assuming that it had stretched however this was only a temporary fix and the proplem continued to get worse. Eventualy i lost all use of the clutch (dangerous situation when in traffic!!) what i found was the bracket at the pedal end of the cable had actually bent and fractured, this caused the clutch cable to break through its retainer. Not an easy problem to fix either, the cable retainer is one unit that holds all pedals and attaches to the fire wall and needs to be totally replaced!
I strongly advise that you check this part carefully top ensure that yours is not bending as well, otherwise you risk losing use of your clutch unexpectedly!
Hope that helps.
bad clutch cable, or not enough oil on the clutch plates.
BAD clutch slave cylinder, wore out clutch and pressure plate.
There is no hydraulic fluid in the transmission. However, there is hydraulic fluid in the clutch system. If the clutch fluid reservoir is empty it would cause clutch not to operate.
First, the clutch won't engage if the refrigerant level is low. Start there. Next, check the sensor at the receiver/dryer.
Bad or worn friction disc, faulty clutch fork, faulty throwout bearing, clutch out of adjustment... pick your poison.
cause your stupid
What specific kind of vehicle do you have? It does sound like the clutch may be bad, but we also need to know what you are working on. You need to run power straight from the battery to the compressor. If is still does not engage then you need to replace the compressor and clutch, they are dead. If they do engage, then you have a wiring or computer issue.
could be several things. the signal comes from the switch on your dash and follows wiring to a relay and more wiring to the clutch. you are bypassing all of that when "jumping" the clutch. if it works when jumped the clutch is good. get a test light and check the wiring to the clutch. good luck....a/c wiring sucks
The clutch on a 1984 Honda Goldwing GL1200 is hydraulic and is not adjustable. There is a slave cylinder for the clutch located behind the engine that must be bled to eliminate air in the system. This air (or old fluid) can cause the clutch lever to engage at the end of it's arc of travel.
I am assuming you mean the Suzuki GSXR600 motorcycle. ANY motorcycle whose engine dies when you engage first gear MOST PROBABLY has a CLUTCH problem. Have the clutch tightened. To check whether the clutch is CLEARING the gear, do the following: 1. With the engine turned off, hold the clutch and put the motorcycle in first gear. 2. While holding the clutch, push the motorbike forward. If the rear tire allows the motorcycle to move forward, the clutch is engaging properly and clearing the gear. If the motorcycle won't budge with the clutch engaged, the clutch is not engaging properly. If the clutch has been tightened and is too hard to engage, you might want to have a mechanic open the motorcycle and check the clutch discs- they might be worn out.
Radiator in need of cleaning or bad/stuck thermostat maybe. Check the fan clutch to make sure it is operative. The fan clutch doesn't engage until a certain temperature is reached; otherwise it is free-wheeling. It needs to engage in order to cool the radiator.
A worn out clutch release bearing would cause a whining sound when you put your foot on the clutch.
A slipping clutch.
There may be some drag on the AC clutch when it is disengaged as the clutch 'free-wheels' during this time. When you engage the AC ,the clutch 'locks up' and the noise disappears. If the noise gets worse you may need to replace the clutch, if it stays the same and it not very loud, I would not replace it.
Oiling the a/c clutch will cause the clutch to slip and burn up........
It is Probable Ur Clutch Is Gone
Hold the end of the treaded rod (where it connects to the actual cable) with a pair of vicegrips - this to stop it from turning when tightening the nut. Yes the nut gets tightened to the point that the lever going into the clutch can be moved easily for about 3-4 mm (1/8-5/32") of travel. This 'free play is important - without the freeplay the clutch will wear out in no time at all. Too much free play will cause the clutch not to engage fully and cause the gears to grind etc.
cause when you let go of the clutch the wheels start turning. holding the clutch keeps it in neutral.
Slack in the clutch release or clutch basket. It might adjust out.
Yes is can if your clutch becomes on fire. make sure to replace your clutch every other day.
If the clutch fluid reservoir is just low, no. If the clutch fluid reservoir is empty, yes.
Clutch is not adjusted properly.
A corroded distributor cap and rotor will cause a vehicle to be difficult if not impossible to start and may cause the motor to run rough. If a manual transmission is jerky the clutch slave cylinder or clutch may need replacing ( clutch slipping ). It would also do to check the clutch lines for leaking fluid.
Many things, but a clutch bearing seems likely.
Because the clutch doesn't apply power