Maybe a bad valve
Not all cylinders firing? Check spark plugs/ wires Do a compression test to determine which cylinder is not firing
There's duct work in or under the dash. Check to see if some of this duct work came apart.
MORE THEN LIKELY YOU HAVE EITHER A CRACKED HEAD OR A BLOWN HEAD GASKET. THE BEST WAY TO CHECK IT IS TO RUN A COMPRESSION TEST AND A CYLNDER LEAK DOWN TEST.
The relay is sticking or the horn button on the steering wheel is going bad. Most likely it is the horn button.
your will have to use a helicoil which creates new threads for the sparkplug ...until then your cylinder is dead like having a Jake brake which uses exhaust valves to open and the compression goes out the exhaust pipe used in large diesel engines
Blow by is the fumes that are produced inside the engine from the compression that slips past the piston rings as they wear out. The worst the ring get the more compression (blows by) the rings. Which is Where the Quote comes from. Steve @ mstrwrnch@yahoo.com
probally wired the pump wrong
There are a few possible reasonsÊthat an air would only blow cold when accelerating. The top two reasons are that the compressor fan might be malfunctioning or that the compression clutch isn't engaging.
Turn the engine to top dead center on #1 cylinder. Make sure your on the compression stroke. this can be done by covering the spark plug hole and quickly bumping the starter. when it blows your finger away its on the compression stroke. continue to move the engine slowly in the same direction until the piston is at the top. take the dist cap off and look at the rotor. Wherever its pointing will be the #1 position. It can actually be anywhere in the rotation depending on how the distributor was installed.
As a rule of thumb, a compression gauge. It's a pain to do but you have to do it. Pull all your spark plugs, also note the condition of each plug. i.e. black goop means it's burning oil that has been getting by the oil ring of the piston and you won't really notice a difference in the compression test. Also, if oil blows out the breather or dip stick after screaming the engine 3500 & up, it's bad oil rings in one or more of the cylinders. But back to the compression test. Pull the plugs and screw in the gauge, spin the motor a few times with the starter and note the psi that has been built. Relieve the pressure from the gauge and go to the next cylinder and the next. Then take an average of all the cylinder pressures. They will normally be within 10/15/20 of each other on a high mileage engine. But if one stands out more than the rest, like 40lbs or less, then it's an issue and could lead to compression rings or head gasket or cracked head, valve etc
If you haven't turned the engine over since pulling the distributor just put it back in pointing at #5. If you have turned the engine over since removing it simply rotate it until it is at #1 TDC. The easiest way to verify this is to line up the timing marks on the harmonic balancer and the pointer. Unfortunately this doesn't tell you if you are the exhaust or compression stroke. Worst case is you would then be 180 degrees out and you'd have to re-install the distributor exactly opposite of where it is pointing. If you have an assistant remove the #1 plug. Have them put their thumb over the hole. Bump the engine over until the compression blows their thumb from the cylinder. That would be #1 compression stroke. Now install the distributor and wires following the firing order.
Maybe a stuck thermostat, or a broken radiator/heater hose. Sometimes the radiator itself blows a seam. Water pump seal, blown head gasket, etc.