This could have been caused by a blocked port, or stuck valve in the master-cylinder. The fluid was considerably dirty (cloudy-brown). I replaced the master-cylinder, and completely flushed, and bled the brake system to correct the problem.
You should also check the condition of the brake-pads and surfaces (drums & rotors), as well as the actuating cylinders for heat damage (blue or "rain-bow" coloring on the shiny metal surfaces=heat-stress). If heat damage is indicated check with a reputable service center to see if the parts can be resurfaced, or if molecular damage has occurred and requires replacement of the affected drums and rotors.
If you have little or no brake lining left, this may have caused the slave-cylinders to "run-out" past the normal range. This may also be evident by a damp or wet appearance (brake-fluid has leaked), and the breach in the seals can introduce dirt and/or water, and air into the system, as well as lowering the amount of brake-fluid available, which likely led to the failure of my master-cylinder.
Some indications of stuck brakes:You may notice a softer or less responsive brake-pedal (air, or contamination in the system), engine temperature running higher (due to increased load), a low level of brake fluid in the reservoir, poor fuel-mileage, and harder shifting (manual or automatic), or otherwise feeling a loss in power as though you were going up a steep hill (when your not). And that hot metal smell I mentioned, and the hot to touch you mentioned; indicates the brakes are not fully releasing when your foot is off the brake-pedal. If you are leaving your foot on the brake-pedal (even lightly) this is called "riding the brakes", and will cause excess heat and wear, along with reduced fuel-mileage, and adds extra load to the engine and transmission...the remedy for this however is free! Take your foot completely off the braked-pedal while you are driving!
Not changing the brakes before they reach below manufacturer's minimum lining thickness...is not only dangerous (you may not stop in time in an emergency)...it also can cause many more problems (time & expense) later on. This is true for any routine maintenance standards.
Heavy braking. suspension so weak it is forcing the calipers to squeeze onto the rotors. But most likely the calipers are seized or the last time the pads were changed, they weren't installed professionally. That is doing the little things like using the correct hi temp grease, cleaning surfaces that should move, etc.
Remoce wheels Remove 2 caliper mounting bolts Slide caliper off rotor Remove rotor
I own a admire. And it does.not. The thing on the front is a censor
you take the wheels off and burn it to the ground. its probably a pyle of junk anyways. you dont really wanna fix it. just burn it and buy a geo metro
Under the motor in the front. Facing the front of the car it's on the left
No They will not fit because the rear subfram is in the way.. 14" maximum on N reg rover 100/metro
They only have one so far and it really doesnt have a name. it just says Metro Station on the front
front disc, rear drums.
98 Chevy metros are all front wheel drive
4inch in front r-l grill easy installation but very shallow
Some older Hundahi and Nissan Sentra 13" will bolt up
Unless it has independent rear suspension (which I doubt) there is probably no adjustment for rear wheel alignment.
In front of and behind the catalytic converter.
original equipment is 155 80R13. I have Mazda 14" wheels on mine and am running 195 60R14
It depends on the year and wheel configuration of your metro. Most metros have a 4 lug 12 inch wheel design whereas the Prizm has a 4 lug 13 - 14 inch wheel base. They may fit on a Geo Metro Convertible or any Geo Metro made after 1995 because after 95 the metro had 13 inch wheels. I would check by direct comparison first.
The address for the Metro Toronto Convention Centre is in the country of Canada, the city of Toronto and at the address of the following: Toronto, Ontario at 255 Front St.West.
Yes you can put AC in a Metro but I don't recommend it. My Metro has AC but if you do put it in it will slow your car down horridly and it will cause your high MPG Metro to drop down to that of a normal car. So it's sort of a comfort vs practicality debate :)
On a 96 it is just in front of the drivers rear tire, in front of the gas tank along the side of the unibody frame
Yes they are the same fenders in the front.
located at front of the car-on the thing that holds air breather.
The rear brakes on a 1996 Geo Metro are changed by jacking the rear end up, placing it on jack stands, and removing the wheels. The calipers can then be removed, the old brake pads removed, and new pads installed.
Maybe on front bottom of engine behind radiator Follow + battery cable
Shake It, by Metro Station
no if u think that the thing on the front is it is not it is a light senser i thought that it was 2 lol don't listen to this person it does have front camera on it my friend is a manager at metro pcs and it have face tiem
Just keep jumping over him to avoid getting hit. After a while, he gets mad & will run one car closer to the front. Keep repeating this & he'll get to the front.
NO it does not have a front camera :( the thing on the front is a sensor that detects your head that way it can turn off the screen when you are talking on it "it basically is just a battery saver'' but all smartphones have them.